44 reloading question

[Tom W.]

Unique or 2400 will do you just fine. I like 21 grains of 2400 with a plain base 245 grain RCBS cast bullet, 22 grains of H110 with the same bullet, or 21 grains with a 310 grain gas checked Lee bullet. The recoil isn't a problem to me, and is doesn't get cold enough here for me to need a magnum primer, altho I do have some and occasionally will use them.

I do so hope you're savvy enough not to be firing that handgun without ear protection. The sound will cause irreparable damage to your hearing and will also be conducive to a flinch that won't be easy to get rid of.
As said before, be cautious and follow the loading manual's instructions when using H110, it's not a powder that should be loaded down. It's made for full powered loads. Try some Blue Dot or Herco , Unique or something else if you need lighter loads, and work yourself up to the "stout" loads. It's not a good idea to attempt to be Mr. Macho when you're learning a large caliber pistol or revolver.

[GRUMPA]

I read from start to finish on this and I hope I'm not going to PEEVE people on this. I would from a stand point of reloading do not down charge with H110.

Use something else like Unique or B-Dot PLEASE.

If you do not have data on the above please feel free to PM me and I'll gladly give you data.

Just starting out things can and will be confusing at times.

If you have issues with seating and over-all length as mentioned, I'll make a small video and send it to you via e-mail so you can better understand through visual aid.

Just keep on asking questions and don't be deterred, there are lots of folk here that are more than willing to get a person thru things.

[357shooter]

Stopped by Sportsman's Warehouse today and bought a 30 dollar Hornady digital scale. It's made in China and looks cheap. I'll hold out that I can figure out the Lee scale. Couldn't spend the 80 dollars for the RCBS beam scale.

FYI, I've tried the inexpensive digitals and went back to the beam scale. They will drift and vary, I wouldn't use it for powder charges. There is something weird going on in your case, once that's resolved you'll be better off. Hove you locked the poise slider to ensure it's not moving?

These days my digital is used to quickly weigh bullets, that's about it.

[Blammer]

get a cheap set of ear plugs, they work well, or some cheap ear muffs, $10 or so at your local supply store.

I would recommend Unique 8-10gr's with your 250ish wt boolit. Should be a good starting point.

I applaud you for toughing this through! You'll learn a lot and have fun too!

the H110 is good but may want to put that back on the shelf for a bit, shoot some "lighter" loads.

make sure there is no metal object too close to your balance beam scale, especially on the end where you weigh the powder. I'd set it on a piece of level wood, that may help.

[desertwheeler]

Tom, I'm definitely using ear protection! I said I'm dense, but not quite that dense. And I think if you read my posts you'll see I'm not trying to be Mr. Macho. I'm not interested in wrist crackin' power loads.

Thanks for the kind offers, Grumpa. I'll show you what I have gotten so far. I think I'm on the right track.

These are the first two unsuccessful attempts:



This was my first successful round, but I felt like I got the crimp too tight. After this I separated the steps and seated the bullets first and then crimped in a separate step:



Here are the rounds after I was done. These are the ones I went out and fired:

[desertwheeler]

Thanks 357shooter, I plan to keep working with the Lee scale until I get it figured out.

Thanks for the tips, Blammer. I'm ready to try the Unique!

BTW, can I use a puller to take apart those first two that are seated too deeply?

[462]

Desertwheeler,
In the two threads you've started, you've been given literally hundreds-of-years of reloading advise. It may be time to go back and re-read them. Also, I hope you finally bought a reloading manual . . . or two . . . and have read it a couple times.

It's awfully difficult to fool gravity, therefore a beam scale will always be reliable. Just keep it clean. From personal experience and that of many other members, electronic scales will give erratic readings, are very slow to react when using a powder trickler, and are better left to weighting boolits. Spend some time becoming familiar with the Lee scale, it'll work for you.

For safety sake, those boolits should be pulled as soon as possible. Actually, they should have been pulled right after they were seated.

[desertwheeler]

In the two threads you've started, you've been given literally hundreds-of-years of reloading advise. It may be time to go back and re-read them.

I've saved them on my computer, printed them off, and read them over and over and will continue to do so.

Also, I hope you finally bought a reloading manual . . . or two . . . and have read it a couple times.

It's on the Christmas wish list...

Spend some time becoming familiar with the Lee scale, it'll work for you.

I plan to.

[bobthenailer]

Afew months ago i bought a clean used S&W 3" 629 44 mag , and it wasent shooting to my liking with bullets sized at .430 dia . i used a pin guage to ck cyl throats and they were.433 dia, I beagled my mould to cast .433 dia bullets and pan lubed and i cut my group size by more than half , and later bought a .433 sizer from lathesmith. and all is going well

[Jack Ryan]

I only use the scales as a starting point on importan powder charges I'd take the trouble to test for accuracy. I have two beam scales and neither one is what I'd call truely accurate, consistant, not accurate.

When trying to duplicate previous loads I liked and tested, I'll fill a few cases to the powder weight I have written down and shoot them across the chrony. Then tweak it to duplicate the FPS. Denisity of powder can change some as it ages and or get's expoxed to air. Company recipes change, primer components change.

1200 fps out the end of the barrel is 1200 fps now and ten years from now.

[MT Gianni]

From post 25 that still looks like a heavy crimp to me.
If you are buying more powder, 6.5 gr Red Dot is an easy pllinking load of near 1000 fps. So is 7 gr Green Dot.

[desertwheeler]

Thanks for the additional tips, guys. A couple of you even pm'd me to offer help. Friendly and helpful place for beginners like myself.

Stopped by another auto shop today and they hooked me up with more lead. I should have enough now for a decent melt....and all for free.

[Blammer]

yes, get an inertial bullet puller and you can "pound" out the bullets to a little bit longer and still shoot them.

I personally don't crimp ANY of my 44mag loads, but opinions vary. If I were to suggest a crimp, I would apply a small light crimp.

even though your crimp on a few is "MASSIVE" if they chamber I'd still shoot them.

[ubetcha]

I think H110 and WW 296 are the same powder.And I think HP38 and WW231 are the same.I cant swaer to it,but the load data looks the same.WW296 and H110 are not recomended for reduced loads.Try the Unique,WW231 or maybe H4227.Depends on bullet weight

[357shooter]

I think H110 and WW 296 are the same powder.And I think HP38 and WW231 are the same.I cant swaer to it,but the load data looks the same.WW296 and H110 are not recomended for reduced loads.Try the Unique,WW231 or maybe H4227.Depends on bullet weight

You are right on the money about the powders being the same. It's kinda confusing to note that W296 advises no reduces loads (I'm thinking 357 here, may not apply), but the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook suggests a reduced H110 load as "potentially the most accurate load" for the 358429. The also say, don't reduce W296.

[Reload3006]

You are right on the money about the powders being the same. It's kinda confusing to note that W296 advises no reduces loads (I'm thinking 357 here, may not apply), but the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook suggests a reduced H110 load as "potentially the most accurate load" for the 358429. The also say, don't reduce W296.

I have noticed this too and I believe or believed how ever that makes sense to you it to be true but I am not entirely sure. I have never heard from Winchester OLIN or Hodgdon that they were the same powder. I know Hodgdon was a re-seller not a manufacturer of powder so I dont know I kind of settled it for myself ans they are different with very similar characteristics. I wouldnt reduce load either and add Accurate arms #9 to that list as well.

[Le Loup Solitaire]

The crimped bullets that you made look really good, but the amount of crimp that you used may be a bit much for lighter loads. Unique is a good powder for the 44 as are certain other powders. How much of any powder is a question best answered by...whatever gives you the best grouping-if you are target shooting or he best performance if you are using your 44's for hunting or silhouette. The "enemy" in shooting big calibers is recoil/kick. It cumulatively tires you/wears you out. You can get used to it with practice, but it takes work....sometimes a lot depending on you the individual and the power of the loads. A way around it is to use lighter loadings and that helps to ward off the inevitable flinching that will develop. So-called plinking loads will help one practice and shoot effectively. Velocities in the 700-900 fps range are ideal for good training. One does not need a heavy crimp to hold the bullet in place for that. I found that 9 grains of IMR 4756 worked very well for me and the 7.0 grains of Green Dot recommended by MT. Gianni is also a good level to work at. With a good manual for reference you can always move up safely and effectively without getting slammed around and flinching. A good scale and powder measure are most essential to good and safe handloading. Beam scales work very well; if you are having difficulties with the Lee scale then go to a different brand that you will be more comfortable with. The handling of powder is the one area that you cannot (afford to) make mistakes in. The 44Mag/Special is an excellent cartridge and you will do well with it. LLS

[desertwheeler]

I'll have to get a puller next time I'm at Sportsman's Warehouse. Blammer, are you careful to not flare your cases much before seating the bullets? Do you use the bullets with the bevel bases? I've read quite a bit about the importance of crimping, especially when using H110. Thanks, LLS. Very helpful info.

[Blammer]

I bell the case mouth as needed to get the boolits in, and my "crimp" basically irons out the flare.

I've always kept the 'crimp it' in the back of my mind, if I can't get good accuracy or I am having bullets staying put issues I'd look at crimping, but I don't have these concerns so I don't crimp.

Maybe because I don't use 110 or 296 I've no need for crimping or to try it. I primarily use 2400 and unique.

[Blammer]

I use pretty much most of these boolits you see here.