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Thread: Cast Bullet Loads for Military Rifles - Article

  1. #101
    Boolit Mold
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    Cheers res45
    please keep us posted, I did get data from Hodgson using pistol powders ap50n & ap70n on 3 different cast projectiles one of which was our 185gn projectile

  2. #102
    Boolit Mold rromano158's Avatar
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    Question Which bullet mold for M1 Garand?

    Hello all,
    I was able to finally get an M1 Garand in my collection. I am wanting to reload cast "boolits" for this particular rifle. I've reloaded for other 30-06 rifles (bolt action and pump action). I have a question about which mold to get. I am looking at the NOE molds 311332, 311365, 311299 or the 312299. Can anyone give me a recommendation for one or another? Would I have feeding issues with round nose cast "boolits (the 311299/312299) versus the spire points (311332/311365)? I planned on using either IMR4898 or H4898 starting at 30 grains and working up. Whatever advice you can offer would be greatly appreciated!

  3. #103
    Boolit Mold
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    Well I tryed 2400 started at 16grns and went to 17grns accuracy was 2" at 100yrds recoil like getting kicked by a mule ,I'm 78 and have no rotator cuff left, come pair to 23.6grns of 4198 1" at 100 with half the recoil guess what I'm going to stick with bullet Lee 185 312 in Argentine Mauser 21 and a 1/2" barrel Lyman 48 rear Lyman globe front sported stock did try 10grns of trail boss recoil like a rabbit fart went to 11.6 grns but groups are 2 to 3" but very pleasent to shoot.

  4. #104
    Boolit Mold
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    I made a bad mistake,instead of 16grns of 2400 I used 26 missed 10 on my scale some how,and went to 27 the recoil was terrible for an old man,that was with a Lee 185 312 ,I quess the mind is the first to go.

  5. #105
    Boolit Grand Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    Awesome info!

  6. #106
    Boolit Grand Master Outpost75's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 100yrdopenchamp View Post
    I made a bad mistake,instead of 16grns of 2400 I used 26 missed 10 on my scale some how,and went to 27 the recoil was terrible for an old man,that was with a Lee 185 312 ,I quess the mind is the first to go.
    A statement I've heard at the Fairfax Rod & Gun Club, where Ed used to belong, which is often attributed to him, but I understand from talking to Ed, originated with the late Frank Marshall, Jr.

    "The perfect cast bullet load for a military bolt rifle is one which is accurate, consistent and clean shooting, in which an inadvertent double-charge will not blow up the rifle. At worst it may blow the primer and thoroughly lead the barrel. In cleaning up after our mistake we may repent, and contemplate our sin. Now young man as penance say ten "My Rifle's," go forth and sin no more!"
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  7. #107
    Boolit Bub danthman114's Avatar
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    I thumbed through this thread and have an unanswered question, or maybe I didn't see it. I recently picked up a Lee C312-155 mold and cast and sized around 40 or so. I would like to use these in a mosin but none of my books have a load for this projectile. the lee book, the newest lyman etc etc. none of them for the 7.62x54r. I did find a picture of a data card for a lee loader but I'm not sure if it applies to a cast bullet. where can I find some reliable info for cast boolits?
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  8. #108
    Boolit Grand Master Outpost75's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by danthman114 View Post
    ... I recently picked up a Lee C312-155 mold and cast and sized around 40 or so. I would like to use these in a mosin but none of my books have a load for this projectile...for the 7.62x54r. I did find a picture of a data card for a lee loader but I'm not sure if it applies to a cast bullet. where can I find some reliable info for cast boolits?
    Size the bullets .314 and try 15-16 grains of Alliant #2400, or 18-20 grains of H- or IMR4227, or 20-22 grains of H- or IMR4198, or 21-26 grains of RL7.

    Without the GC you can have a nice plinker or small game load using 6-7 grains of either Bullseye, TiteGroup, Red Dot, 700-X or 231.
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  9. #109
    Boolit Bub danthman114's Avatar
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    unless im missing something, how can I size .312 to .314? i slugged my barrel with 00 buck and it ranged from .313 to .311. i sized to .311 with gas check and tumble lubed...
    thanks for the info but where did you get it from? i read somewhere online that you cant use jacketed load data for cast projectiles. is this correct?

  10. #110
    Boolit Grand Master Outpost75's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by danthman114 View Post
    unless im missing something, how can I size .312 to .314? i slugged my barrel with 00 buck and it ranged from .313 to .311. i sized to .311 with gas check and tumble lubed...
    thanks for the info but where did you get it from? i read somewhere online that you cant use jacketed load data for cast projectiles. is this correct?
    If bullet drops from mold .312 you can put GC on in a .314 die without sizing the bullet and it should seal the throat better than at smaller diameter. Most of the Russian and Chinese 7.62x54Rs run large, some as large as .316". The Finnish rifles are tighter and work fine with a .311 bullet. You want the bullet to fit the unrifled portion of the chamber ahead of the case neck before the rifling starts, NOT to the groove diameter of the barrel. Read the sticky on bullet size!

    Correct charge with a cast GC bullet using common extruded tubular rifle powders is about 70-75% of the jacketed charge.
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  11. #111
    Boolit Bub danthman114's Avatar
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    ok thanks. ill check again when I get home. now is that 70-75% for all weights of jacketed bullets and for any powder listed in the data? a rule of thumb basically. I'm going to get out the books again and re read some stuff. maybe I missed something...

  12. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by danthman114 View Post
    ok thanks. ill check again when I get home. now is that 70-75% for all weights of jacketed bullets and for any powder listed in the data? a rule of thumb basically. I'm going to get out the books again and re read some stuff. maybe I missed something...
    An approximation for how far most common extruded rifle powders can be safely reduced without getting into trouble or needing a different powder just for reduced loads. With 4895 you can reduce down to 60% according to Hodgdon:

    https://imrpowder.com/wp-content/upl...ifle-loads.pdf
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  13. #113
    Boolit Buddy res45's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveNZ View Post
    Cheers res45
    please keep us posted, I did get data from Hodgson using pistol powders ap50n & ap70n on 3 different cast projectiles one of which was our 185gn projectile
    I can believe how long it's been since I posted on this but life gets in the way sometime. Long story short I settled on using 2400 for now with the Lee 185 gr. RN in my Mosin rifles as it just shoots so well with half the powder charge. I started out with the 16.0 gr. load and moved up to 19.0 grs. and I have a bit of room to go per the Lyman Cast Bullet Manual #4 I've been shooting these groups pretty regularly.


    I haven't given up on H-4895 as I've been using it with my new Accurate mold I ordered from Tom that comes out at 215 grs. and will fit into the throat of my 91/30 unlike the Lee which shoots well just have a bit more jump even loaded out as long as I safely can. I still have room to go with the powder just work and constant rain for the past couple months on my days off has kept me from doing any further testing.

  14. #114
    Boolit Buddy parkerhale1200's Avatar
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    Hello,
    You can use full jacket loads with cast, also in rifle's, with no lead in the bore
    However be sure of your measurements and keep an eye on your bhn.

    Best

  15. #115
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    The Harris article is great and I've referred to it for many years. I not only have it bookmarked on my computer but keep a hard copy in my reloading manuals. I recently used it again a few days ago in working up loads for an upcomng rifle match. Good stuff!

    Best regards
    Doc

  16. #116
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    Col.E.H.Harrison wrote CAST BULLETS an NRA publication.
    He is deceased, but not Ed Harris of whom you speak.
    Ed is the author of the cast bullet article at the beginning of this thread.

    This is in answer to Versifier post #9.
    Last edited by Alferd Packer; 10-14-2019 at 03:38 PM.

  17. #117
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    "The Load” is 13 Grains of Red Dot"

    By C.E. Harris, Revised Sept. 27, 2007

    My success in economizing by using up leftovers of misc. shotshell powder changed my approach to handloading. About 15 years ago I was given an 8 lb. caddy of Red Dot from the estate of the late Vincent Marino, a fellow gun club member who was an active trap and skeet shooter. I no longer reloaded shotshells, so asked myself, “what can I do with it?"

    At the time my shooting was now mostly NRA-style high-power rifle, but using cast bullets in WWII militaries. I was working at the time with a Winchester M1917 Enfield and a Smith-Corona M1903A3, both .30-'06s, and I also had a Long Branch No.4 MkII* in .303 and a Finnish M28/30 in 7.62x54R. I needed several hundred rounds a week to practice offhand, reloading, and working the bolt in sitting and prone rapid, but didn't want to burn out my barrel or my wallet. Powder used to be cheap, but then was $15/lb. (and is closer to $25 today!)or more), so cost is a factor in component choice.

    I used to ignore pistol or shotgun powders in reduced rifle loads for the usual reasons: the risk of accidental double-charges, fears of erratic ignition, and concerns with maintaining accuracy, and reduced utility with a low-power load.

    Still, the caddy of Red Dot kept “looking at me” from the corner. Would it work? Looking at data in the RCBS Cast Bullet Manual No. 1 and the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook suggested it would, so I tried it, much to my delight!

    Red Dot is bulky compared to the usual rifle powders used in .30-'06-size cases. It occupies more powder space in typical charges than common “reduced load” rifle powders, such as #2400, IMR4227, IMR4198 or RL-7. The lower bulk density of Red Dot adequately addressed my safety concerns because it makes an accidental double charge far less likely.

    After considerable experimentation, my friends and I found “The Load” of choice in most .30 and .303 calibers was 13 grains of Hercules Red Dot. We found this a good starting point in any FULL SIZED rifle case of .30 cal. or larger. “The Load” has distinct advantages over more expensive alternatives, within certain limitations, which are:

    1. The case must be LARGER than the .30-40 Krag, and have a normal working pressure greater than 40,000 psi. The No. 4 Enfield in .303 Brit is OK, the 1896 Krag is not!

    2. The rifle must be of MODERN (post 1898 design, suitable for smokeless powder, with a bore size of .30 cal. or larger.

    3. The bullet weight must be within the NORMAL range for the given cartridge.

    4. Inert fillers such as Dacron, kapok or are NOT RECOMMENDED! (Nor are they necessary).

    Within these restrictions now engraved in stone, “The Load” works! The bullet may be either jacketed or cast. Gaschecked cast bullets required in the .30 cals., otherwise you will get leading, but plainbased ones work fine in the 8mm Mauser or larger.

    "The Load” has shown complete success in the .303 British, 7.65 Argentine in the '98 actions (not the 1891 please), .308 Win., 7.62x54R Russian, .30-'06, 8x57 and .45-70 (strong-actioned rifles such as the 1886 Winchester or 1895 Marlin -- 12 grs. is maximum for 400 gr. bullets in the Trapdoor Springfield.

    Since the article originally appeared I have heard from people who successfully used it in the 8mm Mauser, .35 Whelen, .375 H&H, .444 Marlin and .458 Winchester.

    "The Load” fills 50% or more of a .308 Win or .30-'06 case. The risk of an accidental double charge is greatly reduced, because the blunder is immediately obvious if you visually check, powder fill on EVERY CASE, as you should whenever handloading! A bulky powder measures more uniformly, because normal variation in the measured volume represents a smaller percentage of the charge weight.

    Red Dot's granulation is somewhat less coarse than other flake powders of similar burning rate, such as 700-X, which aids metering. Its porous, uncoated flakes are easily ignited with standard primers. So-called “magnum” primers do no harm in cases larger than the .30-'06, but are neither necessary nor recommended in smaller ones.

    I DO NOT recommend pistol primers in reduced rifle loads, because weak primers may cause erratic ignition, and their thinner cups can perforate more easily, causing gas leakage and risk of personal injury!

    The velocities obtained with 13 grs. of Red Dot appear mild, but “The Load” is no pipsqueak! In a case like the .308 or .30-'06, you get (from a 24” sporter barrel) about 1450 f.p.s. with a 200- gr. cast bullet, 1500 with a 170-gr., or 1600 with a 150-gr. cast load.

    "The Load” is fully comparable to “yesterday's deer rifle", the .32-40, and provides good expansion of cheap, soft alloys (10-13 BHN) at woods ranges. Jacketed bullet velocities with “The Load” are about 120-150 f.p.s. less than a lubricated lead bullet of the same weight. Longer-barreled military rifles pick up a few feet per second. My preferred alloy in the .30 cals. is a mixture of 5 lbs. of backstop scrap to 1 lb. of salvaged linotype. Wheelweights also work well, as do soft “Scheutzen” alloys such as 1:20 tin/lead. in medium bores over .30 cal. and larger. “The Load” drives soft-cast .30-cal. to 8 mm bullets fast enough to get a nice mushroom, without fragmenting.

    These cast loads out-penetrate factory .30-30 softpoints, and kill medium game up to 150 lbs. well at short ranges up to 100 yards, when placed accurately. In medium and large bores like the .375 H&H or .45-70, “The Load” gives typical black powder ballistics for the bore. A 255-265 gr. cast bullet in the .375 H&H approximates the .38-55 at 1330 f.p.s. Soft 300- 405-gr. cast bullets are pushed at 1300-1350 f.p.s. from a 22” barrel .45-70, sporter are very effective on deer at woods ranges. Cast bullets over .35 cal. do not have to expand appreciably to work well on game if blunt and heavy for their caliber.

    The Load” works equally well with jacketed bullets, and is a good way to shoot up those old pulled military ball bullets you have lying around. Jacketed bullets give somewhat lower velocities than with cast lead, due to less effective obturation and greater friction in the bore. I have use pulled GI .30 caliber Ball, and Match bullets with “The Load” for cheap 200-yd. NMC boltgun practice. Accuracy is equal to arsenal loads, but I use my 600-yard sight dope at 200 yards. I expect 5-6” ten-shot, iron-sight groups at 200 yards using M2 or M80 pulled bullets and about 3-4” for the M72 or M118 Match bullets. I use these mostly in bolt-action rifles, but they can be single-loaded for offhand or slow-fire practice in the Garand as well.

    These .30 cal. pulls shoot fine in the .303 British or 7.62x54 Russian, despite their being a bit small, because the fast-burning Red Dot upsets them into the deeper grooves. The 173-gr. Match .30 cal. boattail bullets may not shoot as well at these low velocities as lighter flat bases in the 12” twist .308 Win. barrels, but they do quite well in ten- inch twist barrels such as in the '06, 7.62 Russian, .303 British and 7.65 Argentine.

    The longer bore time of these 1400 f.p.s. (typical 170-180-gr. jacketed load velocity) practice loads makes errors in follow- through apparent, a great practice and training aid. The light recoil and lower report of these loads helps transition Junior tyro shooters from the .22 rimfire to the service rifle without being intimidated by the noise and recoil.

    Zeroing is no problem in the M1 or M14, because “The Load” shoots into the ten-ring of the reduced SR target at 200 yards from your M1 or M14 rifle at using your normal 600 yard sight dope! The somewhat greater wind deflection blows you into the “8” ring at 200 yards with the same conditions you would expect to do so at 600 yards with M118 Match ammunition. This provides your Junior shooters some useful wind-doping practice.

    The economy of a lighter charge is obvious. A full power .30-'06 load using 50 grs. of an IMR powder like 4064 today in 2007 costs 15 cents a pop, just for powder, at 140 rounds per pound (if you are lucky enough to still find new powder at $21/lb.) By substituting 13 grs. of Red Dot you get 538 rounds per pound at a realistic cost of 4-1/2 cents assuming you pay $25 per pound at retail. Greater savings are possible if you get the best price and buy powder by the caddy. It is still possible to get an 8 lb. caddy of Red Dot for around $100 if you shop around. Or just become an old vulture and hang around waiting for an old trap shooter to die and do his widow a favor!

    Velocity and point of impact of “The Load” is not noticeably affected by varying powder position in the case. I shoot them either slow fire, or clip-fed and flipped through rapid-fire in the boltgun with equal accuracy. Red Dot is very clean burning and is economical both on the basis of its lower charge weight, and its lower basic cost per pound compared to other “rifle” powders. If you substitute a stiffly jacketed 110-gr. .30 Carbine softpoint bullet, which is designed for somewhat higher velocities than imparted by “The Load", you have a non-destructive “coup de gras", small game or wild turkey load which shoots close to your deer rifle's normal zero, but at 25 yards!

    Best of all, using a shotshell powder I already have reduces the kinds of powder I keep and eliminates the need for a special “reduced load” powder. This approach is ideal for rifle shooters who are also shotgunners, since almost everybody who reloads for 12-ga. probably has a keg of Red Dot already!

    I now realize it is foolish to use heavier charges of more expensive powder for routine practice, varmint or small game loads in my center-fire rifles. I seldom shoot at over 200 yards, and don't enjoy wearing out expensive target barrels unnecessarily. Since I already have good sight dope and need to work more on technique and save my remaining barrel accuracy life for matches.

    I am glad I found the way to get alot more shooting for the dollar. Economical powder choice IS possible, and my reloading has become less complicated and more enjoyable simple since I realized I could do most of my rifle shooting with 13 grains of Red Dot!

    73 de KE4SKY In Home Mix We Trust From the Home of Ed's Red in "Almost Heaven" West Virginia

  18. #118
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    America’s Greatest, The All-Around .30-’06
    By C.E. Harris (Rev. 7-8-94)

    The most popular deer camp discussion for generations has been that of the proverbial “All-Around Rifle”. What would be YOUR choice if you could have only one rifle? Forget the apocalyptic, “Red Dawn” scenarios and consider only the present, and the realistic future. For me, the answer is plainly obvious. A .30-’06 bolt-action, because there’s not much a skilled rifleman and handloader can’t do with it.

    Some years ago I was invited with a group of gun writers to a “bring your own rifle” hunt in Texas. One of the scribes was intent on doing a survey of what the “experts who could pick anything their heart desired” did, in fact, choose. The fellow doing the survey had built his own wildcat, just for the occasion. Of the dozen or so “experts” in attendance besides our wildcatter, one was a fancier of the .270 Winchester, and the rest of the rifles in camp were all .30-’06 boltguns. Now THAT would have made an interesting article, but the wildcatter, who had embarked with other ideas, never wrote it, a shame to be sure.

    My gun rack currently holds six .30-’06 rifles, if you don’t count the half-dozen or so extra barrels for my switch-barrel silhouette, target and bench rifles. My first .30-’06 was a DCM M1903A3. My second was an M1 Garand. My third was a custom Winchester Model 70 target rifle with Hart barrel and stock by Roy Dunlap. I’m sure my early exposure to highpower rifle competition, ROTC, handloading, DCM ammo, a particularly fine lot of TW54 Ball, and some even better LC63 National Match ammo had something to do with my love for the .30-’06. But, 30 years later, as I inspect and care for the brass I’ve hoarded, it still makes sense.

    The variety of factory loads in .30-’06 is greater than for any other American cartridge. When handloading options are added, the possibilities are simply staggering. To keep it simple, five classes of .30-’06 loads cover all possible uses for a rifle. These are: small game and gallery loads; light varmint and target loads; service rifle loads; long range loads, and big game loads. There is, understandably, some overlap, as a “service rifle” load with match-type bullet becomes a fine “big game” load, with the substitution of a hunting-type bullet.

    I recommend the .30-’06 handloader keep a limited selection of powder and bullet types which have flexibility for multiple purposes. One “reduced load” powder, one “service rifle” powder and one “long range or big game” powder will do it all. Similarly, for bullets, one light cast bullet plinker, a 160-180- gr. gas-checked target bullet, a “general purpose” 150-168-gr. jacketed hunting or match bullet, and a heavier 180-200-gr. target bullet for the serious hunting or long range shooter rounds out the whole menu. This enables you to produce economical, safe, and effective ammunition without accumulating odd lots of components which cause problems for storage or disposal later.

    With this goal in mind, I’ll describe each load class, and make some recommendations based upon my experience.

    SMALL GAME AND GALLERY loads are quiet and low-powered, intended for use at 25 yards or less. I use them for indoor target shooting, and camp meat for the pot. They are also fine for easing the transition of youngsters from a .22 rimfire to a big game rifle. Cast bullets are best for this purpose. Light, jacketed bullets may be used, but require caution, to ensure that the bullet’s bore-exit is totally reliable.

    Most rifles produce 3/4″ groups or less at 25 yards or in proportion to 100 yards. A few shoot ragged holes at 50 yards after load refinement. Light .32 revolver bullets can be used, but more satisfactory are heavier bullets from 130-170-grs. I cast these of soft backstop scrap, and shoot them tumbled in Lee Liquid Alox, without sizing or gascheck. I use the same NEI-52A, Saeco 322, or Lee .312-155-2R bullets I normally use, but without the gascheck. The Lyman #311291 and RCBS 30-150FN also work well for these light loads. Typical charges for plainbased loads are 5-6 grs. of Bullseye, SR-7625, W231, Red Dot, Green Dot or 700-X.

    You can safely increase these charges up to 2 grains as needed to get best accuracy, but they will lead above 1300 f.p.s. unless gaschecked. Some individual rifles with smooth barrels shoot quite well up to 7 or 7.5 grs. of these powders, but best accuracy is usually obtained when velocities are kept subsonic.

    I generally look for a velocity of 1080 +/- 30 f.p.s. These loads will usually shoot 2-1/2″ to 3″ groups at 100 yards using minor visual defect culls, which is OK for practice. The minimum safe load which will always exit the barrel for indoor gallery work is about 4 grs. of the above powders.

    More caution is required when assembling subsonic loads with jacketed bullets, because there is some risk of the bullet becoming lodged in the bore at near-subsonic velocities. You should not attempt to use less than 6 grs. of the above pistol or shotgun powders when loading jacketed bullets unless you check the bore after every shot and keep your hammer and ramrod handy!

    There are important safety considerations for all reduced loads. I don’t recommend heavier charges with pistol powders (even though some manuals list them) unless the particular powder is bulky enough (like Red Dot), that an inadvertent double-charge fills or overflows the case so an error is immediately obvious on visual inspection. Extreme caution must be used with dense powders such as W-W231 in reduced loads, because even a double charge is hard to see with all that airspace, so an error is not apparent. If you use fast pistol or shotgun powders in reduced loads, ensure the charge is light enough that a mistaken double- load will only blow primers, rather than destroying the rifle!

    Spitzer bullets generally give poor accuracy below about 1600 f.p.s. due to gyroscopic instability, blunt round- or flat-nosed bullets are best. The 100-110-gr. .32-20, .32 H&R Magnum and .30 M1 Carbine bullets are often suggested for small game loads, but in my experience won’t produce 1″ groups at 50 yards, my accuracy criteria. Any decent .22 rimfire will shoot 1″ groups at 50 yards, and a center-fire small game load should do as well, right?

    The most satisfactory jacketed bullet reduced loads are assembled using my standard 200-yard target charges used with gaschecked cast bullets. Accurate boltgun practice loads which will shoot “on” at 200 yards close to your normal 600-yd. sight dope with either 150-175 gr. pulled GI bullets or 150-200 gr. cast, gaschecked bullets are: 12-13 grs. of Red Dot, Green Dot or 700X, 15-16 grs. of #2400, 18-20 grs. of 4227 or 21-23 grs. of 4198.

    My favorite jacketed bullets for reduced .30-06 loads are the bulk Remington 150-gr. .30-30 soft points. This is because I keep them around to load .30-30s, but they are highly accurate at minimum velocities and are also suitable for mild ’06 deer loads with 35 grs of 3031 or RL-7, which approximates .30-30 ballistics.

    The 123-gr., 7.62×39 spitzer FMJ bullets give good plinking accuracy above 1600 f.p.s., using the above listed “200-yd. Target” charges.. Grouping is improved by increasing the charge, not to exceed 27 grs. of #2400 or 30 grs. of 4227 which approximates 7.62×39 ballistics. With 150-gr. .30-30 bullets, do not exceed 25 grs. of #2400, which gives 2100 f.p.s., a nice deer load for youngsters, women, or elderly hunters with pacemakers who can’t take the recoil of a full ’06.

    “SERVICE RIFLE” loads approximate the performance, and accuracy of military “ball” or “match” ammunition for target shooting over the National Match Course. It is important that the powder charge, bullet type, and ballistic parameters not vary significantly from arsenal ammunition, in order to ensure they function as intended in semi-automatic, quasi-military arms.

    The ballistics of Ball M2 service ammunition, (2740 +/- 30 f.p.s.) with a 150-gr. spitzer, flatbased bullet are approximated in GI cases with a charge of 47.5 grs. of current Hodgdon or IMR 4895, or 50 grs. of IMR-4064 or Olin’s W-W748. Accurate Arms 2015BR and 2495BR are also suitable using the charges recommended by them. In commercial brass these powder charges intended for GI cases may be increased 1 grain. These are fine match loads for offhand and 200 rapid in the M1 using the 150-gr. Sierra MatchKing or the new 155-gr. “Palma” bullets.

    Prior to the introduction of the 168-gr. Sierra MatchKing, the 125-gr. spitzer was favored for 200-yd. offhand and sitting rapid-fire stages of the National Match Course. These are highly accurate, and ideal for the reduced scale courses for use by junior shooters, to reduce costs and minimize recoil. The charges for 150-gr. bullets, listed above, function the M1 rifle and are accurate. They also make dandy woodchuck loads.

    WITH 168-SIERRA OR PULLED GI MATCH BULLETS a charge of 46 grs. of 4895; or 48 grs. of 4064 or 748 approximates .30-’06 M72 match ammunition (2640 +/- 30 f.p.s). With 168-gr. match bullets, these charges may be increased 1 grain, but if the 180-gr. Sierra MatchKing is used (a GREAT 600-yd. bullet for the M1) they should be REDUCED the same amount. I do not recommend slower powders or heavier bullets for the M1, because heavier charges of slower powders operate the mechanism with more force than service ammunition, and may damage the operating rod or other parts. You are free to use the “long-range” loads below in your Springfield or M1917, and they also work well for hunting loads in bolt- action rifles, using soft point bullets of the same weight.

    “LONG RANGE” loads are heavy target loads for bolt-action match rifles, intended for use at the 600-yard stage of the National Match Course, and for longer ranges, such as 1000 yard events. The loads which follow are for use in bolt-action rifles only. (Semi-auto and slide-action rifles should be used with the “service rifle” charges listed above).

    I consider it routine for all long-range target loads in boltguns to uniform the flash hole diameters with a No.2 long center drill, and the primer pockets, using the Whitetail Match-Prep tool. In addition, I neck turn all cases to 0.011-0.012″ neck wall thickness, and check-weigh all cases to +/-3 grains to ensure uniform powder capacity. I used to check cases to +/- 1 grain, but while this is appropriate for a small case like a .223, in the ’06 it is “measuring with micrometers while cutting with axes! Uniforming flash holes, primer pockets and neck wall concentricity gets you the most improvement. Weighing cases is only used to isolate the extremely “heavy” or “light” ones.

    These can still be used for load development, or for slow-fire standing stages. Don’t pitch them. In boltguns cases should be fire-formed in the particular rifle they will be used in, and then neck-sized only, using a Jones sizer with .330″ ring or Lee collet and dead-length seater.

    It is entirely unnecessary to weigh every powder charge if you use a good powder measure and consistent technique, but you should always verify the measure setting with a scale when you set up. My favorite powders for long range loads in the .30-’06 are either IMR or Hodgdon 4350. Accurate Arms has their own brand of 4350, which works well using the loads they recommend. With Hodgdon or IMR 4350 powder, using commercial cases with an average weight of 185 grs., and either Winchester WLR or Federal 210M primers, I use 56 grs. with the 180-gr. Sierra MatchKing, 54 grs. with the 185 Lapua, or 53 grs. with the 190s at 600 yards. For windy days at 600 and for 1000 yards I use 52 grs. with a 200-gr. Sierra MatchKing.

    Overall cartridge length is 3.40″, or adjusted to clear the lands upon chambering by 0.010″ to 0.030″. You should avoid “jamming” bullets into the rifling, but “jump” should not exceed 1/10 of the bullet diameter. These cartridge exceed magazine length and are intended for single-loading only. If using these charges for hunting loads with softpoint bullets, to be magazine fed, reduce the charges 1-1/2 grains. Powder charges should also be reduced 1/2 grain for each 5 grain difference in average case weight to compensate for heavier military brass.

    Some people like slower powders such as 4831 for long-range loads in the .30-’06. While I have found that 58 grs. of H4831 works well with a 200-gr. bullet, it doesn’t group as well for me as 4350 with the lighter 180-190-gr. bullets. Always pick the best grouper over whatever the chronograph says. If grouping is equal, for matches pick the bullet which is the better wind bucker. The 200-gr. Sierra Matchking is the best choice in .30- ’06 boltguns for 1000 yards or for windy days at 600.

    “GAME LOADS” for deer and larger game can be based on the target charges above, with seating depth and powder charge adjustments for magazine feeding of hunting-type bullets. While heavy bullets are preferred for elk, moose or bear, the average hunter after deer will be best served with one load, which he knows well. I want my hunting loads to approximate factory ammunition, so if I run out and must buy a box somewhere, I’ll not have to check my zero, and scare all the game away.

    With a 150-gr. spitzer soft-point, 52 grs. of IMR-4064 or W-W 748 in commercial cases approximates the factory 2800 f.p;.s. velocity. With a 165-gr. boattail, 56 grs. of 4350 is a dead ringer for Federal’s Premium load. With the 180-gr. Nosler Partition, 55 grs. at 3.30″ overall cartridge length, in commercial brass, approximates the 180-gr. Federal Premium load. With either load reduce charges a grain if using GI cases. For larger game such as moose, elk, or bear, the “long range” loads above work well with premium big game bullets of the same weight.

    In semi-auto or slide-action .30-’06 hunting rifles the “service rifle” charges listed above should be used. These are somewhat less than maximum, and provide very satisfactory game loads with a hunting bullet of the same weight.

    Summing up, the .30-’06 is the most versatile American center- fire cartridge, and has not been improved upon. If you have leftover pistol or shotshell powders around, you can load .30-’06 practice loads with it and have alot of fun for not much money. If you keep Red Dot or 700-X around for loading skeet and trap loads for your 12-ga., or if you have #2400 or 4227 around for loading .410 skeet loads or a magnum caliber handgun, you don’t need to buy another powder for reduced loads. The same is true if you keep 4198 around for your .222 Rem.

    Of all the rifle powders, 4198 is the best reduced load powder for the .30-’06, from 1300-2000 f.p.s. because it bulks up well, and is not position sensitive. If you don’t load need to make minimum subsonic small game or gallery loads (4198 doesn’t work for these) and you don’t already have other suitable powders available, and want to buy the best rifle powder for moderately reduced rifle loads, 4198 is my recommendation.

    The “Real .30-’06 powders” for full loads are 4895, 4064 and 4350. IMR-4895 replaced IMR 4676 for military ball ammunition about 1944 and was the standard propellent for military .30-’06 Ball and Match ammunition. It is adaptable to a variety of cartridges. If you want just one rifle powder to use for everything 4895 is “it”. Some target shooters feel that “long grain” powders like 4064 and 4350 give better grouping than “short cut” powders like 4895, which are preferred for machine loading. Even though coarser powders don’t measure as well, they are highly accurate. If this is your choice, substitute 4064 for the 4895 and you won’t be disappointed. For maximum loads in .30-’06 boltguns it’s hard to beat 4350. I’ve tried other powders, but I keep coming back to 4350, because its consistent and always predicable, just like my .30-’06.

    That’s why I like the .30-’06. It’s like an experienced old horse that always knows its way back to camp, so you can just do the job and relax. What else do you want in a rifle?

  19. #119
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Foothills, NC
    Posts
    2,223
    A year or so ago friends recently gave me several thousand pulled Cal. 30 Ball M2 (152-gr.FMJ) bullets and fired empty cases. These had been accumulated from DCM .30-’06 ammunition from which they had pulled the GI bullets and replaced them with Sierra 155-gr. Palmas over the original powder to use for competition. I was offered half the fired brass and pulled bullets to use my Dillon Auto-Swage 600 to rework the cases and work up a gallery load for Junior training and rapid-fire practice at 100 yards in bolt action military rifles. The intent was to approximate the old M1906 Guard cartridge. An article in Rifle Magazine, March-April 1990, by Jeffrey W. Houck, p49 was a useful resource to assist with this.

    Reduced range guard cartridges were developed for use in the M1903 Springfield on urban installations where full power ammunition posed a risk of collateral damage if fired in anger. The M1906 Guard cartridge used a reduced charge of Bullseye powder with the standard 150-gr. FMJ service bullet. It was identified by 6 dents or flutes on the shoulder of the cartridge case. According to ordnance pamphlets, the M1906 Guard cartridge gave accuracy equal to normal Ball ammunition at ranges up to 200 yards and shot approximately to point of aim at 100 yards using the standing bar of the folded down battle sight on the M1903 Springfield rifle. At a range of 200 yards the Guard cartridge required an elevation of 650 yards on the elevation slide.

    My initial experiments sought a subsonic load producing minimum noise, but 100-yard groups with the M2 Ball bullets loaded subsonic weren’t not as good as when they were driven a bit faster. Nor did I find any benefit to using pistol primers, inert space fillers in the cartridge case or enlarged flash holes using Bullseye powder in these .30-’06 gallery loads.

    Once-fired LC military cases were full length resized; primer pockets swaged, trimmed to length and primed with standard Winchester Large Rifle primers. After experimentation I settled on a charge of 8 grains of Alliant Bullseye as the best compromise using pulled Ball M2 150-grain or 148-grain 7.62mm M80 jacketed bullets. After seating bullets were crimped using the Lee Factory Crimp die. Velocity from my 22" Mauser sporter with European style, long tapered throat is 1080 f.p.s. and from a Sako A2 silhouette rifle with 24” Douglas Premium barrel with tight-necked target chamber and SAAMI throat 1160 f.p.s. Report and recoil are mild, like shooting a .32-20.

    The average of five consecutive 5-shot groups fired at 50 yards from the Mauser sporter with 4X scope was 1.2 inches. The point of impact at 50 yards was 3.5" below that of normal Ball M2, which enabled using the heavy duplex reticule as a short-range post, using my normal zero for 180-gr. hunting ammunition. The Sako with 10X scope shot very consistent inch groups at 50 yards. So it was time to go to out to 100 yards and stop “fooling around.”

    The Mauser sporter struck much, much lower at 100 yards, and required re-zeroing, but accuracy was fairly good, averaging 2.6” for ten consecutive 5-shot groups at 100 yards. This grouping compares with full-power Ball M2 ammunition from the CMP. The Sako with 10X scope averaged 2inches for ten consecutive 5-shot groups, also typical of M2 Ball ammunition fired in that rifle.

    While I was at it, I decided to test cast bullets, without a GC, to compare their performance against the Ball M2 pulls. The cast bullets were cast in 4-cavity gang moulds and sight culled only. They were loaded as-cast and unsized after tumbling with Lee Liquid Alox. I found them highly satisfactory as practice, training, small game and utility loads useable in any sound .30-’06 rifle. Cast bullet groups were equal to or better than the M2 pulls, an inch at 50 yards and 2 inches or so at 100 yards. Velocities using the 8 grain charge and 152-grain plainbased cast bullets such as the #308241 or RCBS 30-150CB approached 1400 f.p.s., and caused mild leading in other than the target grade barrels. For general use I recommend reducing the charge with cast bullets to 7.0 grains of Bullseye so that leading won't impair accuracy over longer strings of fire.

    The M1919 Gallery Practice cartridge used a 140-grain, plain-based, round-nose lead bullet shaped very much like the Ideal #308241. Prior to WWII it was reclassified as the Cartridge, Guard, M1. This lead bullet reduced load was originally intended for indoor and outdoor short-range practice. It was alternately used as a Guard cartridge around defense plants and military installations in non-combat areas which didn’t require the FMJ bullet of the M1906 Guard cartridge for compliance with the 1905 Hague Convention.

    Gallery Practice cartridges were loaded with a charge of Sporting Rifle No. 80 powder to attain about 1100 f.p.s. Guard units commonly reloaded indoor practice ammunition. Ideal Reloading manuals prior to WWII and Phil Sharpe's Complete Guide to Handloading (1937). featured data for assembling gallery center-fire rifle loads.

    Cast loads using 7 grains of Bullseye with the RCBS 30-150CB or GC type bullets of similar blunt shape, but used without the GC should be cast no harder than wheelweights. These light loads do not cycle the action of semi-automatic rifles, but can be hand cycled from clips in the Garand when the action is worked manually. The 7 grain charge of Bullseye can be used in the 7.62x54R Russian, 7.62 NATO cartridge or 8mm Mauser (with proper bullets) with similar results. To produce similar gallery loads for the 7.65 Argentine, 7.7 Japanese, .303 British, or .30-30, which operate at lower pressure use 6 grains of Bullseye with a 150-grain lubricated cast bullet, 110-gr. jacketed .30 carbine softpoints or 123-grain .310-.311 jacketed 7.62x39 bullets, as appropriate for the caliber.

    When using reduced charges of dense, fast-burning pistol powder it is absolutely necessary to visually inspect 100% every case for correct powder fill using a pen light to positively prevent missing or double charges or spilled powder.

    To recap, if low noise and minimum danger space are the goal, carefully load 8grs. of Bullseye in the .30-'06, 7.62 NATO, 7.62x54R Russian or 8mm Mauser with a 150-gr. jacketed bullet appropriate for the caliber. Lighter jacketed bullets such as 110-gr. softpoints designed for the .30 M1 carbine can be used in the .30 cal. rifles. The 123-gr. .310-.311 bullets intended for the 7.62x39 work well in the 7.62x54R Russian and .303 British. Do not reduce these charges further with jacketed bullets because below 1000 f.p.s., you are likely to "stick" a bullet in the bore.

    If you do stick a bullet in the barrel the safe way to remove it is by first flooding the barrel with Kano Kroil penetrating oil, then using the Brownell's "squibb rod" (in the .32 revolver size) threaded with the adapter onto a one-piece Dewey cleaning rod and tapping the bullet out using many light taps.

    You may substitute a soft, lubricated lead cast bullet of a weight similar to or less than the service bullet with good results. Do not reduce charges further because ignition. Do not use any inert cartridge case space fillers and stick to standard large rifle primers.

    Bottlenecked cases such as the .30-'06 which are reloaded frequently with these reduced loads will shorten in head-to-shoulder length, being driven forward into the chamber by the primer blast. Rimmed cases used in reduced loads do not suffer from this difficulty. Gallery loads are a good way to use nearly worn-out cases one more time before smashing them for scrap to trade to the recycler for lead with which you will cast more bullets.

  20. #120
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    328
    Great info in this thread. Thank you!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check