I got an unlubed case srtuck in Lee 6.5 Jap Lee die. I tried to hammer it out and broke decapping pin ( Dickiedope me) i e-mailed Lee to get a new one. It was sent to me no cost in less than a week. ! Two thumbs up to Lee Products. Great buy for the money!
Bought my first set of lee dies this week in 10mm.Loaded first 100 rounds today and they worked like a charm.I usually by t rbs but was stretched on cash,very glad i got this lee die set now.I've heard cs was good before hand.Nice to know they back up there products.I had my first stuck case on a 45-70 10 years ago.Bought the stuck case remover two days later and was the only time ive used it.Live and learn i guess.
Lee has shown me great customer service: as good or better than Dillon, Hornady and RCBS.
Lee is not your grand fathers Lee Precision anymore: they are competitors with the big boys now.
I love most LEE product's!
The son is one heckuva business manager. Mr. Lee oughta be proud of him.
Yes, Lee has really come into their own in recent years and I love their equipment. They are my first choice for most products.
,,, stupidity comes to some people very easily. 8/22/2017 Pat Lengyel (my wife) in a discussion about Liberals.
I wouldn't be so sure about your statement.
The trimming pin on my .223 broke after second use!
Lee unbreakable deprimming rods broke two pieces per 1000 cases!
Lee pistol deprimming rods used for 9mm luger didn't brake but exracted and stayd in the primer hole around 5 per 5000 reloads!
And the topic according Lee Loadmaster priming system and discarded small sliders better not be opened!
Lee Classic cast press handle bend after around 500 derimmed LR cases!
Yes, probably could be send directly to Lee but I am not living in states.
LEE has an updated primer assembly. The sliders are different. No longer are there little fingers going over the primer seater. All the primer feeding is done from a redesigned slider. Even if the feed arm comes off the slider, it will not trash the slider. It won't feed an upside down primer either. It works nice!Originally Posted by rasto
*Neither am I.I call or email them a pic and they send a replacement.While your communicating with them get extra part's.*
Zuke do you email them directly to the company email or do you know somebody there personaly?
Post an email address please
No offense, but it sounds like you could tear up a cast-iron anvil in less than a week.
I've been reloading now for just over forty years, have done hundreds of thousands of loads, and have not had one-tenth the malfunctions you've had in less than 5,000 rounds.
How do you bend a press handle de-priming??? Only way I can think of is if you're full-length sizing and using a really bad lube or have a wrong-sized die or you're trying to "form" cases.
But even then, I've used my little Lee Challenger press to form .270 cases into 30-06 with zero problems, zero stress. I used Imperial Sizing Wax as the lube and had no problems.
I've yet to break a Lee depriming pin because the collet design is set so that the pin pushes upward when encountering a Berdan-primed case or otherwise difficult case rather than breaking.
I've broke some RCBS de-priming pins, to be sure, and keep extras on hand. When I started adding some Lee dies to the bench, I ordered a couple of extra de-priming pins. Haven't needed one of them yet, and that's been over twenty-something years ago.
If you're bending and breaking that much stuff this quick, I'd respecfully suggest looking at your techniques rather than your equipment, because I can tell you right now I've known people who've torn up RCBS and Dillon equipment same as you have the Lee--and their techniques were what were doing it.
Recluse first of all, read more carefully.
I wasn't deprimming but derimming and half of them were old Czechoslovakien annealed, lubricated REX 22LR cases. Mostly two handed operation was needed so therefore it bend.
The Kaine die and everything else is without any issue, only the press is somehow weak made for me
Other thing to explain is the Loadmaster deprimming failure.
Cases used in our country are mainly made by S&B the line NONTOX is harder to reload due to the primer pocket dimensions.
Have you ever seen the deprimming pin get through the primer while the primer stayed in the case? NO because you are not in touch with the garbage for reloading.
Other case which have occured is fact that during deprimming operation was the deprimming pin pushed out of the die witch caused double priming
Etcetera and so on
Been using the Lyman Crusher for 10 years & before that an RCBS jr & a Redding single stage. Been paying a lot of attention to the new LEE Classic Turret press. All steel & cast iron. Great price at Midway. I'll never give up my Lyman Crusher but as soon as I get the money ahead, I'm getting the LEE Classic Turret.
Factory Sales has much better pricing on the Lee Products than does Midway, shipping is a lot less expensive too.
,,, stupidity comes to some people very easily. 8/22/2017 Pat Lengyel (my wife) in a discussion about Liberals.
most of my products are rcbs ,,lyman but i do have a few of lee,s stuff, their 43 mauser dies are as good as any and for the price can't be beat,,, only one gripe their shellholder sucks !.
oh well for $10 i can get a #22 from rcbs.
i got it made...
i.m just sitting here watching the wheels go round and round..... i really love to watch them roll ,,,, J,W,L.
+1; Loadmaster primming and depriming STINK!, but the classic cast turrent is still my favorite. The Lee perfect powder measure makes a uniform charge down to the last drop.
Recluse first of all, read more carefully.
I wasn't deprimming but derimming and half of them were old Czechoslovakien annealed, lubricated REX 22LR cases. Mostly two handed operation was needed so therefore it bend.
The Kaine die and everything else is without any issue, only the press is somehow weak made for me
Other thing to explain is the Loadmaster deprimming failure.
Cases used in our country are mainly made by S&B the line NONTOX is harder to reload due to the primer pocket dimensions.
Have you ever seen the deprimming pin get through the primer while the primer stayed in the case? NO because you are not in touch with the garbage for reloading.
Other case which have occured is fact that during deprimming operation was the deprimming pin pushed out of the die witch caused double priming
Etcetera and so on
Here's the form I filled out.
http://leeprecision.net/support/inde...t/RenderForm/4
And the rest of their contact info.
Please review the Lee Support Center thoroughly before sending us an inquiry. If you still can't find the answer to your question, contact us here.
Lee Precision, Inc.
4275 Highway U
Hartford, WI 53027
Hours of operation: Monday through Friday 7:30am-3:45pm Central Standard Time (CST)
phone: (262) 673-3075
fax: (262) 673-9273
"Have you ever seen the deprimming pin get through the primer while the primer stayed in the case? NO because you are not in touch with the garbage for reloading."
Yes I have,in the S&B brass and a lot of crimped in primer's .The decapping pin will go right thru the primer and still not remove the primer.
And that my friend's REALLY screw's up your day in a progressive!
For 9mm I now do the first resize in a LEE Reloader press with a carbide die and I lube the hell out of'em.
After the first resize and deprime I know what ever primer I use in them wont be glued/crimped/primer sealer-ed into them.
Do the same and your Loadmaster will run a lot better.I know mine does.
Last edited by zuke; 01-01-2012 at 09:21 AM.
I had a similar story when foolishly tried to reload a bunch of ex-military, mixed and unsorted 9mm in my Pro1000.
Needless to say, it didn't go all that well!
As you would expect, the de-priming and re-priming was very intermittent, causing all kinds of stoppages and powder spills, so I gave up on that pretty early and decided to just run through the whole batch of brass sizing and de-priming only.
When the decapper kept sliding up in the collet due to heavily crimped primers, I over tightened the collet and now I was punching holes through the heavily crimped primers and also between the two flashholes of Berdan cases! Naturally, eventually the pin was pullet out of the shank, so that was easy enough to fix, but it did finally break.
No worries, I scavenged the decapper out of my .357 die set and kept going, only to have it repeat the process.
No worries, kept scavenging decappers from other die sets to finish the batch.
I reckon the decapping pins did a great job, even though I kept breaking them, because I was using them well beyond their design strength.
So the next time I ordered some Lee bits and pieces from Factory Sales, I just added a bunch of decapping pins to the order. At a couple of bucks each, it was no big deal.
And Rasto, I don't think the Lee presses, aside from the Classic Cast, are strong enough to do the tasks required for bullet swaging. If you are forcing the press through it's stroke using 2 hands, this should give you a hint!
And you should have no problems ordering any parts you need to fix you bent or broken parts for your Lee equipment and have it sent to Slovakia from Factory Sales. https://fsreloading.com/
I think most Lee products work perfectly fine if they are used as they were designed to be used. Sure, some need a bit of tinkering to get them to work at their best, which doesn't work for some folks, but that's OK for me and the price is always reasonable. And as we here in Australia pay around DOUBLE for almost everything gun related, that's a big advantage.
Last edited by Norbrat; 01-01-2012 at 11:02 PM.
If I know I'm up against military crimped primers, I don't de-cap or deprime on the press. I've made a tool out of some hardned steel and use it with my vise and hammer to decap or deprime military cases. Saves on a lot of cussin' and fussin' as well as decapping pins in the dies. Just food for thought. BC
Jesus said, "I am the way, the truth, and the life: no man cometh unto the Father but by me."
Like bullet caster, I made a decaping tool from a large nail (small spike) by grinding down the end like a decaping pin, heated it red with the propane torch and quenched. Hit it with a hammer. Have been using it, off and on, for years.
Posting Permissions
| BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
| BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
| BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
| C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
| HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
| PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
| LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
| GC | Gas Check |
Reply With Quote
