NOE .38/200 Mk. I British & Lyman 358430(ish) Group Buy

[Dead Dog Jack]

Was able to get out and do a little playing today. Love this Boolit!!! I'm now able to see the full potential of my Kiwi addition Victory Smith. I found my best results using 2.7gr of Unique with an OAL of 1.175" and crimping to follow the contour of the boolit. I was able to keep a 12 round group to 1" at 10 yards unsupported with no leading at all. Two things that I have not seen before with this hand gun. But then again it just goes to show what the correct size will do for performance. Now I'll have to see tomorrow how well my No2 Mk1 likes it. Thanks to all who had a hand in this group buy from beginning to end!

Do you always load one type? Or do you ever load up for the Smith since it has a sturdier frame than the break tops?

[LouisianaMan]

Made a pile this evening. Note how the bottle-nose gives a blunter profile than a Group Buy 358430 clone I have on-hand (it's the middle one, tumble-lubed).

Random sample of 5 bullets: all 5 were .360"; avg weight 200.8g, with spread between 196+ and 202+ grains. Difference probably due to minor variations in my alloy as I refilled the pot.

Will load up some tomorrow, looking for same COL as the British Mk I and the .38 Super Police, and a matching vel of 625 +/- 25 fps. Eventually will get some pure Pb and add 1-2% tin, to replicate the original load as closely as possible.

[Nora]

Dead Dog

I'll find the load that each gun likes best with in it's safety limitations if I have more than one that fires the same round. Then I will use different colored labels to indicate what it can be used in. Green labels are reduced loads and can be fired in anything, wile the red labels are full load and must be used in something that can handle it. In this case I only have strong framed revolvers chambered for the 38 S&W. That load is for my Smith and is WAY to hot for any of the old less robust top break revolvers. At 2.8gr of Unique it started to show signs of resistance with the spend rounds upon ejection. With my No2 Mk1 it showed no signs of resistance, however it just doesn't like this combo and will work with another powder in a day or two.

Nora

[LouisianaMan]

Some photos:

S&W Mods. 32-1 and 33-1, with (L-R): unfired case, fired bullet, loaded cartridge, unfired bullet



Closer shot of ammo & components.



Bullets: .360 (as-cast); relatively soft alloy
Brass: Starline
Gun: S&W Mod. 33-1 (4" bbl)
COL: 1.175"
Powder: Win231.
2.0g = 573 fps.
2.2g = 595 fps. (1 shot omitted as anomalous at 636.2 fps)
2.4g = 642 fps. (1 shot omitted as anomalous at 741.81)
I estimate a 2.3g powder charge will give about 625 or so, and that's what I'll load.

All group sizes approx. 2.5", clustered approx. 6" above POA.





Penetration against water-filled milk jugs with 2.2g load:
4" bbl Mod 33-1: through 5 jugs, bounced off #6, not retrieved. Round entry hole, all subsequent holes evidenced that the bullet was tumbling

2" bbl I-frame Terrier: through 4 jugs, found inside jug #5. This is the bullet shown in the photos above. Evidence of tumbling as it exited the first jug, and from all subsequent holes.

[Piedmont]

LouisianaMan, Did you just lube the bottom lube groove? I ask because your fired bullet no longer has the top lube groove.

[LouisianaMan]

Used my normal 50-50 LLA-mineral spirits, tumble lubed and blazed away. I, too, was struck by the fact that lead was squeezed down over the top lube groove. No idea why.

[GLL]

Here is one of the first test casts from my 1-cavity HP version. The HP pin is set a little too deep in this batch but the bullets drop with ease.
It looks like it will be great one in my S&W .38/44 Outdoorsman revolvers !

A special thanks to Al at NOE for making me a set of pins and pin blanks for this mold !

Jerry

[Grantb]

My mould made it to Vancouver Island. Thanks Landric! Now its time to learn how to cast so that I can feed my .380 Webleys and Enfields
their proper diet. Even though I have been shooting for close to 50 years, I have never caste any bullets only fishing sinkers. Can anyone tell me what the plastic bottle of greenish blue liquid that came with the mould is for.

[LouisianaMan]

It's lube. After a few casts to heat up your mold, cut off the sprue & leave the bullets in the mold. Put some of the lube on a Q-tip & wipe it over the top of the mold and bottom of the sprue plate to prevent galling & to ease the operation of the sprue plate. It's good stuff!

[LouisianaMan]

Jerry, that is a good-looking bullet! What velocity and what alloy do you use to get it to expand?

[trapdoor-man]

Received OK. Waiting for God to add the 25th hour to the 24 hour day so I can start casting. Thanks so much for a super human effort, Landric. YA DONE GOOD!

Chet

[GLL]

LouisianaMan:

I cast a few at 50/50 Pb/WW + tin to experiment just this week. I will play and get back to you.

Jerry

[Dead Dog Jack]

Here's a shot of a few that I put together. Can't wait to get to the range and test them out.

[ddeaton]

pm sent to see if any extra mold exist.
Thanks

Nevermind, NOE has them in stock, just ordered a 5 hole.