Last edited by GunWhoreDer; 06-12-2013 at 05:30 AM.
Some people just collect them, Me I'm a GunWhoreDer
And a ReLoaderWhoreDer Too.
I see bolts with the threads turned off. Last time I tried that I broke the tip of my HSS bit. Repeatedly. Any tips for cleanly turning threads off?
I did start at the OD of the threads. But pretend I'm a woodworker who is teaching himself metalworking (failing as often as I'm succeeding). I recognize and understand the concept of the interrupted cut based on title alone. I've made interrupted cuts a few times and notice either the cut or the finish is poor compared to uh, 'non' interrupted cuts.
Can you tell me the mechanical significance of interrupted cuts, and what real machinists do (what settings they change?) different when making interrupted cuts vs working with solid material?
Thanks!
Whiterabbit,
I'm not a machinist, not even pretending to be. Heck I didn't even stay at a Holiday Inn last night. Sounds like you're a beginner so forgive me if I get to simple. The size of your lathe has a lot to do with it. You said you are using HSS so I'm going to assume that the tool is sharp and properly ground, with relief angles, etc. Did you set the tool height at the center of the cut? The cutting edge should be at the same height from the ways as the tip of the live center (dead center) in the tailstock. If it is too high it won't cut, if it is too low it will chatter or dig in if not a rigid tool post and fed in too far. If all that is correct, I would try cutting .010-.015 inch per cut. There are some good online resources available. Try to get a copy of the "Southbend How To Run a Lathe". Also you tube is a good source. TubalCaine(sp) or MrPete on you tube is one of the best tutorial videos I've seen but there are others.
Hope this helps,
CC
so when making interrupted cuts, you don't change your feeds or speeds?
I'm not really qualified to answer. But no, I would still turn at the same RPM, you might try reducing the depth of cut to .010-.015, and slow your feed rate. (I guess it's possible, if you were cutting with carbide and feed in to heavy a cut you might shatter the carbide.) I don't know if you have a quick change gear box for threading? If so, I wouldn't feed at 4 TPI, the slower your feed rate the better the finish you will get.
If you do a google search, you will find ton's of info. Just search "how to operate a metal lathe"
CC
Thanks.
I wasn't being clear in my questioning. I was not asking "hey golly, how do I machine metal in general?", but rather was asking "do you change your feeds and speeds when you make interrupted cuts." I think you've answered that now.
Not a problem, I've had a lathe for almost 25 years. Never tried cutting a thread till just a couple of weeks ago. I don't mind helping at all. A lot of people have helped me. One thing I don't like though is giving wrong or bad info. So it's hard for me to answer the question under those circumstances. BTW those threads I cut, they'll hold the die in the press, but no way would I send that kind of work out to someone. I'm still learning a lot myself, that's why I want to try making a set of dies, a couple of molds and a press. I own a 14X40 lathe, a 6X28 mill, and a 9X42 mill that I'm converting to CNC to run with Linux, a 6X18 surface grinder, a couple of bandsaws, several belt sanders, etc. However, I just tinker with them, I'm not really qualified to operate any of them. I don't know CAD/CAM or G-code, but I've got about $4,000 invested in getting this mill operational. I'll worry about learning how to operate/program it now that I've finally got the hardware installed, and finished the conversion of the control system from Bobcad to linuxcnc. Like I said lots of folks have helped me, so I'll try to help where I can.
CC
Looks like fun but I never have that much time, My wife keeps me busy on my days off If I spend to much time in the gun room I can here her sighing.
I am very interested in what you did. Could you PM mewith more directions? I would like to try your hollow point and maybe a FMJ ifthat is possible with your set up....
John
JUST GOTTA LOVE THIS JOINT.
Is it possible to get some information on the length the 40 is cut to? I have everything listed in the video except for the 451 Lee sizer, and that would be easy to pick up. But I sure would like to have some idea on the length to cut the brass before I start. Thanks for any help guys.
Per one of the comments on the above link:
"We trimmed our brass to .670" for 230 grainers, you may need to go shorter if you want 200 or 185 grains. No need to size the cast bullets you are going to use as the core."
Slim
JUST GOTTA LOVE THIS JOINT.
Ditto on the length!
Thanks, I must have missed it. I read the whole post, but sometimes things slip by me. I will be ordering a 3 die set from RCE in about 2 months (that's the time frame the wife gave me). And I can get all the 40 brass I want at scrap prices, so I'm getting a bit anxious. I have 3 different 45s to use the little pretties in, too. Come on 2 months........
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |