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Thread: My home made 45 cal swaging dies.

  1. #61
    Boolit Mold
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    Quote Originally Posted by danr View Post
    here are some pics of a basic lee 17 rem sizing die converted into a 9mm, 38 or 357 swage die.



    here is a close up of the ejection assembly.


    thanks,
    Dan
    Hi danr, please explain the Ejector system. Is it like BTSnipers Auto Ejector or do you still have to bang the top with a hammer to knock them back out? How is it mounted to the press? How does it function? Any video link to your setup by chance?
    Thanks, GunWhoreDer
    Last edited by GunWhoreDer; 06-12-2013 at 05:30 AM.
    Some people just collect them, Me I'm a GunWhoreDer
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  2. #62
    Boolit Master

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    I see bolts with the threads turned off. Last time I tried that I broke the tip of my HSS bit. Repeatedly. Any tips for cleanly turning threads off?

  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiterabbit View Post
    I see bolts with the threads turned off. Last time I tried that I broke the tip of my HSS bit. Repeatedly. Any tips for cleanly turning threads off?
    Did you start at the OD of the threads? Also take small cuts, it will be an interrupted cut until you get down below the original threads. I've cut the threads off of several grade 8 bolts no problem. I took light .010 cuts, till I got down below the threads.

    CC

  4. #64
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    I did start at the OD of the threads. But pretend I'm a woodworker who is teaching himself metalworking (failing as often as I'm succeeding). I recognize and understand the concept of the interrupted cut based on title alone. I've made interrupted cuts a few times and notice either the cut or the finish is poor compared to uh, 'non' interrupted cuts.

    Can you tell me the mechanical significance of interrupted cuts, and what real machinists do (what settings they change?) different when making interrupted cuts vs working with solid material?

    Thanks!

  5. #65
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    Whiterabbit,

    I'm not a machinist, not even pretending to be. Heck I didn't even stay at a Holiday Inn last night. Sounds like you're a beginner so forgive me if I get to simple. The size of your lathe has a lot to do with it. You said you are using HSS so I'm going to assume that the tool is sharp and properly ground, with relief angles, etc. Did you set the tool height at the center of the cut? The cutting edge should be at the same height from the ways as the tip of the live center (dead center) in the tailstock. If it is too high it won't cut, if it is too low it will chatter or dig in if not a rigid tool post and fed in too far. If all that is correct, I would try cutting .010-.015 inch per cut. There are some good online resources available. Try to get a copy of the "Southbend How To Run a Lathe". Also you tube is a good source. TubalCaine(sp) or MrPete on you tube is one of the best tutorial videos I've seen but there are others.

    Hope this helps,
    CC

  6. #66
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    so when making interrupted cuts, you don't change your feeds or speeds?

  7. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiterabbit View Post
    so when making interrupted cuts, you don't change your feeds or speeds?
    I'm not really qualified to answer. But no, I would still turn at the same RPM, you might try reducing the depth of cut to .010-.015, and slow your feed rate. (I guess it's possible, if you were cutting with carbide and feed in to heavy a cut you might shatter the carbide.) I don't know if you have a quick change gear box for threading? If so, I wouldn't feed at 4 TPI, the slower your feed rate the better the finish you will get.

    If you do a google search, you will find ton's of info. Just search "how to operate a metal lathe"

    CC

  8. #68
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    Thanks.

    I wasn't being clear in my questioning. I was not asking "hey golly, how do I machine metal in general?", but rather was asking "do you change your feeds and speeds when you make interrupted cuts." I think you've answered that now.

  9. #69
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    Not a problem, I've had a lathe for almost 25 years. Never tried cutting a thread till just a couple of weeks ago. I don't mind helping at all. A lot of people have helped me. One thing I don't like though is giving wrong or bad info. So it's hard for me to answer the question under those circumstances. BTW those threads I cut, they'll hold the die in the press, but no way would I send that kind of work out to someone. I'm still learning a lot myself, that's why I want to try making a set of dies, a couple of molds and a press. I own a 14X40 lathe, a 6X28 mill, and a 9X42 mill that I'm converting to CNC to run with Linux, a 6X18 surface grinder, a couple of bandsaws, several belt sanders, etc. However, I just tinker with them, I'm not really qualified to operate any of them. I don't know CAD/CAM or G-code, but I've got about $4,000 invested in getting this mill operational. I'll worry about learning how to operate/program it now that I've finally got the hardware installed, and finished the conversion of the control system from Bobcad to linuxcnc. Like I said lots of folks have helped me, so I'll try to help where I can.

    CC

  10. #70
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    Are these still in service?

    Quote Originally Posted by stealthshooter View Post
    I spent a couple hours with my drill press and dremel tool yesterday. I built a core seating die and a nose forming die with a round nose punch and a hollow point punch. The bullets in the picture were made with my dies. The hollow point weighs 330 grains and the round nose weighs 360 grains. I'm pretty happy with them


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  11. #71
    Boolit Buddy bbailey7821's Avatar
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    Very nice, on the cheap!

  12. #72
    Boolit Master Randy C's Avatar
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    Looks like fun but I never have that much time, My wife keeps me busy on my days off If I spend to much time in the gun room I can here her sighing.

  13. #73
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    I am very interested in what you did. Could you PM mewith more directions? I would like to try your hollow point and maybe a FMJ ifthat is possible with your set up....
    John

  14. #74
    Boolit Buddy uncleskippy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrissy4560 View Post
    I am very interested in what you did. Could you PM mewith more directions? I would like to try your hollow point and maybe a FMJ ifthat is possible with your set up....
    John
    I would like some more direction also like what length to cut 40 cal cases for 45 jackets

    Thanks
    Skip

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  15. #75
    Boolit Mold
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    Quote Originally Posted by danr View Post
    it doesn't have to do a complete rollover.. in all reality, when using reloading dies as swage dies, you're only doing a neck down on the projectile.. where the neck becomes the ogive of the projectile.

    so, if you can imagine doing a neck down on a case, from say a 270 to a 30-06, its the same deal when making projectiles..

    so, lets say your going to make a .451 from a 257 roberts die.
    you would cut the 40 case down to the desired length, then fill it with lead. you would use a custom bottom punch to push the 40 case into the reloading die, until the top of the 40 case gets necked down to 257, leaving the shoulder near .451 or over. you end up with a slightly oversized 45 projectile, with a shoulder of a 257, after that you size it to .451 in a push through sizing die.. wala.. 45 projectile with an ogive made from the shoulder/neck of the 257 roberts.

    for 357, 38, 380, 9mm, you need to use brass tubing, or copper tubing.. but is basically the same process. the only diff is that the tubing based projectile will not have a complete capped bottom.. some people have made roll over dies to close up the bottom before swaging the ogive onto it.

    the term swaging, doesn't imply rolling over a point.. swaging only means to SHAPE while cold. so you can re-shape whatever into whatever, as long as its cold, your swaging.


    dan
    i have an old 7mm-08 die set, I want to make 45 acp bullets, where can I get a custom punch ( and what size should it be) to push it into the die?

  16. #76
    Boolit Master slim1836's Avatar
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    JUST GOTTA LOVE THIS JOINT.

  17. #77
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    Is it possible to get some information on the length the 40 is cut to? I have everything listed in the video except for the 451 Lee sizer, and that would be easy to pick up. But I sure would like to have some idea on the length to cut the brass before I start. Thanks for any help guys.

  18. #78
    Boolit Master slim1836's Avatar
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    Per one of the comments on the above link:

    "We trimmed our brass to .670" for 230 grainers, you may need to go shorter if you want 200 or 185 grains. No need to size the cast bullets you are going to use as the core."

    Slim
    JUST GOTTA LOVE THIS JOINT.

  19. #79
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    Ditto on the length!

  20. #80
    Boolit Man
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    Thanks, I must have missed it. I read the whole post, but sometimes things slip by me. I will be ordering a 3 die set from RCE in about 2 months (that's the time frame the wife gave me). And I can get all the 40 brass I want at scrap prices, so I'm getting a bit anxious. I have 3 different 45s to use the little pretties in, too. Come on 2 months........

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check