What oil to protect a press?

[ShinyPartsUp]

I am a noobe to reloading. I just mounted my Lee Cast single stage press on my bench and re-read the instructions. It says to use a light oil on the ram, linkage and all moving parts.

What oil do folks use? Should I run a film of oil on it new or can it go a while before cleaning and oiling? How often do folks clean and oil?

TIA

[3006guns]

Welcome to the forum!

Believe it or not, 30wt. hydraulic oil (not engine or tranmission) is what I use. Wait, before you start laughing, hydraulic oil is the closest to the "machine oils" used on machine tools back in the 1920's and 1930's, so I use it on my shop tools also. It's clean, pure and contains no uneccesary additives to gum up the works. If you go to a tractor shop or auto rebuild shop they'll likely give you a small bottle for free.

Ordinary gun oil would work also. Whatever oil you choose, it should be light bodied and clear...and yes, I'd oil it right away. Start it off right!

I usually oil the pivoting points and ram on my presses whenever I feel they're getting dry, a matter of personal choice really. I oil the surface of the ram, operate it up and down a few times then wipe off the accumulated crud and reoil...just a few drops that spread out. The result is a nice, slick operating press that never sees rust. Be sure to wipe any excess off, especially around any priming mechanism.

[Bret4207]

I still like good old reliable Break-Free CLP. It simply works, and that's what I want.

[cbrick]

Welcome to CastBoolits ShinyPartsUp,

I'm with 3006guns and Bret.

I lube as 3006guns and use Break-Free like Bret. The difference is that I remove the ram and linkage parts whenever it appears to be getting dry, clean the press and parts with bore cleaner and then re-oil. Primer residue accumulates over time in all these areas which is pretty gritty so I keep it clean as well as oiled.

Rick

[ShinyPartsUp]

Thanks for the advice guys. I have break free at hand so I'll likely use that for now. I am friends with the mechanics at a local John Deer/ Suzuki shop (they are giving me wheel weights for free for when I start casting eventually). I'll check out the hydraulic oil too. Shame I just got the press together and looking like a press -- but no worse taking it apart than after finding a screw when buttoning up a motorcycle, lol.

[timkelley]

Get the wheel weights from the guys now, they don't go bad and they take up little room. Every wheel weight you don't take now will just be gone when you need it later.

[ShinyPartsUp]

Get the wheel weights from the guys now, they don't go bad and they take up little room. Every wheel weight you don't take now will just be gone when you need it later.

I hear you. Most are stick on weights for motorcycles, but some are really big -- maybe for tractors? I didn't think they balanced tractor tires. But I got my first load of 10 lbs. and said I'd come back every couple weeks for more. They were glad to ditch them. Some rainy day I'll start sorting out the Zinc ones.

This is a new hobby/passion and I'm truly starting to enjoy it.

After work I'm going to oil the press, and I'm looking forward to it. Gotta do something while I wait for my new ultrasonic cleaner to clean brass anyway. Much better than falling asleep in the man-chair watching the boob tube.

[Le Loup Solitaire]

Light oil is what is used on sewing machines. Any sewing machine shop has it. It is really light so would have to be used more often. It also costs more. I prefer 3 in 1 which seems to be (somewhat heavier)just right. Oil is always cheaper than metal as the saying goes, so when in doubt....oil it. Many other oils can probably be used successfully. Any oil that is thicker/heavier grade can be "cut" with a little kerosene. I have done that with chain saw bar oil and it worked. LLS

[corvette8n]

+1 on CLP

[downwind]

Welcome to reloading and boolit casting!!!!!!

I like Marvel Mystery oil

Works good and smells nice!

I apply, work press a few cycles then wipe off excess.

DOWNWIND

[GabbyM]

I like to use grease on the rams and any other parts I can get it into.

[1Shirt]

I have always just used 3 in 1. It is one of those things that work so I haven't fixed it. Nothing against all of the other suggestions however.
1Shirt!

[kmag]

Dillon reccoments to use only 30 wt. on their presses. Filled me a small bottle with the 30 wt. non-detergent that I use in my lawn mowers. Have used it on all my presses for about 20 yrs. I have about all types of oil including the synthetics, but the 30. wt works for me.

[shotman]

the 2 cyl oil that goes in the gas mix {bull plate} works and it dont get gummy . Just dont soak the parts . Light coat is good

[ShinyPartsUp]

Well it's comforting to know there are so many oils being used and nobody's balls have fallen off.

I couldn't find my break free so I put a light coat of RemOil on the mpving parts for now. The ram and other parts' operation smoothed out noticeably. I then decapped 50 pieces of brass in prep. for an ultrasonic bath. Thanks to all and I hope other reloading virgins find this thread in the future. I'm sure they would find it helpful and comforting. I appreciate all the responses.

[W.R.Buchanan]

I have been using Dillon Case lube for my rust preventative and lube for my Rockchuck ram.

It is Lanolin mixed with alcohol. When the alcohol evaporates (5min) you have a nice film on everything. I use it on my dies also, and especially on Lee dies as they will rust if you touch them.

Randy

[bruce drake]

Chainsaw bar oil lubricant has been my lube of choice for my Press for the last 10 years. I always place a fresh coat on every six months or so and the press has been super smooth ever since I started using it.

The same oil works great with a Lee Sizing die to resize jacketed bullets down a few thousandths as well. I do it for resizing .310/.311 bullets for my .308 caliber rifles as well as .270 bullets to .268 for my 6.5 Jap rifles.

Bruce

[ShinyPartsUp]

I have been using Dillon Case lube for my rust preventative and lube for my Rockchuck ram.

It is Lanolin mixed with alcohol. When the alcohol evaporates (5min) you have a nice film on everything. I use it on my dies also, and especially on Lee dies as they will rust if you touch them.
Randy

I hadn't heard Lee dies were more prone to rusting than others. Is this the older steel dies or the newer carbide as well?

[Bullet Caster]

Welcome aboard ShinyPartsUp,
I am also new to casting and reloading. I also would like to know if carbide dies need oil. While I have 2 casting sessions under my belt, I haven't reloaded any brass as of yet. Savin' up for powder & primers.
I do know that citric acid will work on brass, and works well. You'll have to research the threads posted on this cleaner for brass. My press has not needed any oil yet, since it has only been used to decap and size what cases I have. Still waitin' to buy some .45 acp dies so I can get my brass prepped. As of yet I haven't had the funds available for a tumbler for cleaning brass. I'm trying to do everything on a shoestring budget since I'm a disabled Vietnam vet and don't have a job. Hope everything works out for you; this a great hobby and you'll find some good information on this forum if you just take some time a look around the site. Also please be advised that there is a great chatroom you can go to and ask questions. The gentlemen (and ladies) are very informative and will try to answer any questions that you may have. Good luck.
BC

[50-170-700 sharps]

I always just use CLP