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Thread: bluing tank

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    England
    Posts
    1,593
    Clean and degrease the barrel,Apply Ammonium chloride and distilled Water solution,stand in warm area until rusted,Boil for ten minutes in rainwater,Using 0000 Steel Wool rub off the Rust that has changed from Feric Oxide (Red) to Fero Feric Oxide (Black).Repete these operations until you have a deep black,Wash with clean Water, heat barrel and apply lubricating oil,Allow to stand for a couple of hours before wipeing off excess oil.For Browning do not boil just scald by pouring boiling water over the barrel.
    P S.Plug off the Barrel at each end before starting.
    Last edited by Col4570; 03-08-2013 at 03:20 PM. Reason: More info

  2. #22
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Aug 2011
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    3,342
    wait why is barrel plugging needed? aren't the bluing chemicals only coming into contact with the barrel where YOU apply them? unlike a hot dip?

  3. #23
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Aug 2011
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    I am interested in the answer to this. I am prepping for my first bluing job, and I'd rather do it once than 3 times. I still have more questions about rust bluing, and I should start with the answer to one question than ask six at once!

  4. #24
    I have done some rust bluing with Mark Lees product. I've used both his express blue and the slow rust blue, both work well. Instead of plugging bores, I've coated them with varnish and let it dry, before slow rust bluing. With an express type blue, which uses the boiling hot water, you don't need to plug or varnish the bore, as the process is faster. To remove the varnish from the bore I used laquer thinner on several patches to remove it.

  5. #25
    Find yourself a copy of Angiers blueing. LOTS of different formulas there cold and hot.Aloha, Mark

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    1,259
    Quote Originally Posted by gnoahhh View Post
    Anybody here found a way around spending the crazy amount Brown-give me all your money-ell's charges for a tank to boil a barreled action? I only need it to boil stuff in water in the course of rust bluing.
    a very inexpensive but durable tank for rust bluing can be made from a short section of aluminum rain gutter. You will need two end caps, a tube of silicone calk and a few sheet metal screws to hold the caps in place. I've been using one for many many years.

    A couple of wooden stands hold it securely enough over camp stove burners.

    I would not use this for caustic salt bluing but it is fine for rust bluing.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    East Tn
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    3,382
    Quote Originally Posted by BrentD View Post
    I would not use this for caustic salt bluing

    I would like to add that in case anyone might think of trying to use such a tank for caustic bluing the results would be a disaster! It would not just not work it would dissolve away almost instantly as the caustic solution would attack the Aluminum violently, it would start fizzing and splattering then just collapse spilling the contents creating a catastrophe!

    I had a near miss a couple of years ago using a stainless steel pot for a small batch to blue small parts in, I noticed the solution started fizzing near the top of the pot then a couple of minutes later when I attempted to lift the pot both handles fell off causing me to drop the pot. Luckily I was prepared with rubber gloves and boots plus protective cover-alls so the solution (that had not reached full heat yet) didn't cause an injury. What had happened was that I failed to notice the rivets holding the handles to the pot were Aluminum! These simply dissolved away and allowed the handles to literally fall off and these rivets were waaaaay thicker than an Aluminum gutter.

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    North Queensland Australia
    Posts
    161
    Lots of very good advise and timely I am having a custom 98 Mauser built and all the old gunsmiths that I know that are still working don't do bluing anymore because of the unwillingness of people to pay for the prep time needed to do the job properly.
    This last week I have been hunting for the bits and pieces for the hot tank, unlike most tanks I will have the heating tube in the tank with a burner firing into the heating tube, I have used this method of heating on large Caustic tanks and high volume salt water heaters for fish farms, very efficient it's not really needed on a little tank for bluing, but it will be a nice little project.

    Regards Trevor

  9. #29
    My tanks were built by hand, here is a blog post showing how we did it. The burners were made from iron pipe, we followed a design found online (Google is your friend here). The tanks were welded pieces of flat steel.

    http://tincanbandit.blogspot.com/201...ing-tanks.html

  10. #30
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Seattle Area
    Posts
    38
    I built all this stuff may years ago with the help of a friend that had a TIG welder. 6 tanks, 4 burners. The caustic tank is mild steel, others are 316 stainless. The two lower tanks on the stand on the left are spares.









    3/32" diameter holes two rows. High volume regulators on the tanks.


  11. #31
    Boolit Master





    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    NH
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    2,526
    Quote Originally Posted by gnoahhh View Post
    Anybody here found a way around spending the crazy amount Brown-give me all your money-ell's charges for a tank to boil a barreled action? I only need it to boil stuff in water in the course of rust bluing.
    Welded custom from stainless is what the shop I worked in, we blued up to 46 inch long. Use Du-lite salts and not The B's .

  12. #32
    Moderator Emeritus / Trusted loob groove dealer


    waksupi's Avatar
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    Somers, Montana, a quaint little drinking village,with a severe hunting and fishing problem.
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    Better method I came across I've used for the last few guns I've blued. Get a section of 4" pvc, long enough to put the metal in. Get a plumbing flange to fit the pvc. This will be your most expensive part, around $25. Find a pot that this will set on top of, cast iron preferred.
    Then get a piece of metal, or even wood, and drill a hole, or holes in it, to put in a wire hook to hold a barrel. Set the pot on a hotplate and bring water to a boil. Drop your small parts directly in the water to boil. Set the pvc and flange over the pot. Let boil for 25 minutes minimum. The steam in the tube does a fine job. The steam part actually takes only 20 minutes, but the boiling parts will need 25 minutes, as the water is not as hot as the steam.
    Let cool, wash off any loose residue, then steel wool or wire brush. Repeat as necessary.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


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BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
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GC Gas Check