Guys, what is the proper way to pour lead into a mold using a ladel? Do you just tip the ladel so the lead flows into the mold, or do you put the nipple into the spour plate hole and lead the lead flow in?
Thanks...Ed
Guys, what is the proper way to pour lead into a mold using a ladel? Do you just tip the ladel so the lead flows into the mold, or do you put the nipple into the spour plate hole and lead the lead flow in?
Thanks...Ed
Either works well according to what is to be done to get a proper fill out of the bullet.
BvT
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BvT
Ed, I'll presume you are not casting 500gr bullets, so:
* Casting any bullet, head pressure is key to filled out bullets and bases with sharp edges. Fill the ladle full. Slightly turn the mold horizontal with the ladle spout tightly pressed into the sprue hole
* Turn the mold vertical with the spout still pressed in the sprue hole and let the head pressure of the lead do it's work
* Count 5 seconds for the pour time and then create your puddle
For bullets under 300gr, the pot temperature and mold should be hot enough so the sprue puddle frosts in 5 seconds. Heavier bullets - 8 to 10 seconds
* Cut the sprue and drop the bullet within another 5 seconds
That's it ... Timed rhythm and head pressure!
The method with good rhythm will consistently produce bullets with a 0.5gr variance with the pot temperature held constant. Niagara Falls the lead into the sprue hole and a good probability the bullets will not be filled out to the maximum, the bases will have round edges and the bullet weight variances will be greater than 0.5grs
Regards
John
Believe it or not, each mould may have a preferred pour method.
With my big single cavity 500+ grain 45, I tip the mould towards the ladle. I pour the melt at an angle and tip both upright at the same time. This gives the melt a circular swirl inside the mould cavity. It helps let the air escape from the mould while filling, as opposed to putting the nipple in the sprue and capturing the air in the mould with the melt.
With my 4 banger Lyman 45, I leave a little space between the ladle nipple and the sprue plate for each of the cavities. Each of these moulds like each of these methods per mould.
Experiment, you will find what the mould likes.
Jack
As Baron Von T. stated either way works, but there are some considerations to be noted. Some casters connect the spout to the sprue hole and rock the two together into the upright position. A variation to this is to then disconnect the spout and let some of the melt run and form a puddle to "feed" the cavity for any shrinkage in the pour. Another method is to not connect the spout and to pour from a "height" (that can be varied) diectly into the sprue hole. (again leaving a puddle to feed any shrinkage) The NRA staff once did some testing to compare fillout with "pressure casting" to pouring from a height. They found that the bullets from the pressure casting were somewhat sharper (in corners) than the height poured ones....but that there was no discernible difference in accuracy. It, as such, appeared to be non conclusive and remained somewhat controversial. One has to try both ways to see which way works better (for you). The same discussion arises in the world of the bottom pour pots....some pour from a height and some pressure pour. There are advocates of either method and good results either way. For more details on this I would recommend the book titled, "the Art of Bullet Casting", still available from Wolfe Publishing in Arizona. It is an interesting compendium/collection of fascinating studies, work and experiences by/of legends in the casting and shooting community over the years. LLS
I'm with littlejack, it depends on what the mold prefers. As a for instance, I have an Eagan mold that I guess has very good venting. If you try pressure casting with it you produce a bullet that would make a good fishing lure, they're dead ringers for sticklebacks with lots of little spines as the alloy flows out the vent lines.
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Thanks for the info guys. I guess I have more experimenting to do in filling out my 465gr mold.
Ed
I have been doing as John Boys suggested for many years. It was called "force casting", back in the day. I don't use a ladle but either a Lyman or RCBS dipper. I have drilled out the holes in these to a larger size so allow the lead to get into the mold quicker. I get much better results with bullets that weight over 250 grains this way, and it doesn't hurt with the smaller bullets.
Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.
I listen to the mould and do what it tells me- pressure pour with contact, air gap, biiig air gap, really big air gap aimed to swirl the lead into the cavity. Whatever the mould wants. Be flexible.
I start out using Johns method and generally this is the way to go . Except for the occasional mould that does not like it then try the other methods. One thing I do differently than John is use two moulds - fill the first set it down and fill the second then the first is cool enough to open. Keep alternating open and fill while the other cools. By using two 2 or 3 cavity moulds you can cast a lot and dont have to wait fo the mould to get cool before opening. It works for me.
Last edited by gwpercle; 11-04-2011 at 04:34 PM. Reason: misspeled word
I love my Rowell "1 lb." ladle when working with 5 and 6 cavity moulds. For single and double cavity ones, I switch back to my RCBS ladle. I agree that the pouring method depends on the likes and dislikes of the individual mould. I've wasted a lot of time trying to "force" a mould to produce good bullets with the wrong technique.
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