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Thread: First boolits cast in 25 years

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy Cloudpeak's Avatar
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    First boolits cast in 25 years

    I just cast my first boolits in 25 years or so. I used to cast bullets for my 44 mag with a Lyman 429421, 4 cavity mold for my Ruger 44 and shot many of these bullets for practice rounds and plinking. I got away from shooting and reloading for many years and just started again. I've looked at past post on this group to try & get back up to speed.

    I just bought a Lee 6 cavity mold ( TL401-175-SWC) for my new XD40 pistol. I've been shooting it quite a bit using store bought clad and lead bullets. I remembered how much fun I had casting wheel weights so decided to get back into casting. The Lee mold worked very well and in no time, I cast 700+ boolits (Gotta remember how to spell "boolits" when posting on this group, I guess). My boolits are measuring .401 to .403. I think I'd feel better if they were all .401 so am figuring on ordering the Lee Lube & Size kit. I have Alox for a lube and would like to stay with this, if possible. I used to have a Lyman sizer/luber but loaned it out and lost track of it so would like to avoid this expense again.

    Do I need to tumble lube the boolits before sizing or can I lube after sizing? If I can lube after sizing, would it still be a good idea to feed a lubed boolit through the sizer every 2,3,4 or 5 rounds to lube the sizer die. I won't be loading these boolits very hot. They will be used for target practice and shooting steel targets so a mild load with lighter recoil seems like it would be a good idea. Am I on the right track? Any suggestions?

    Thanks, Cloudpeak

  2. #2
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    Buckshot's Avatar
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    .............Cloudpeak, you're welcome here amongst the motley (more motley by the minute) crew. If the Lee sizer is finished well you could probably size without lubing, but I've seen some that were a tad bit less then really smooth inside. Why do you want to size unlubed slugs? If they're tumble lubed first, the sizing operation will push lube into the lube groove(s).

    "Any suggestions?"

    Ah.............. how about, buy more guns, get more moulds?

    ...........Buckshot
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  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    Many of us size before lubing. I am slightly nervous about the possibility of getting unnoticed leading in the sizer, so I size with greasy hands. Usually use a dab of lanolin, but I have used Vasoline, paste wax, and even Crisco when that was handy. Dunno I really need to, but it is no trouble and makes me feel better.
    Sometimes you gotta wonder if democracy is such a good idea.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cloudpeak
    1. Do I need to tumble lube the boolits before sizing or can I lube after sizing?
    2. If I can lube after sizing, would it still be a good idea to feed a lubed boolit through the sizer every 2,3,4 or 5 rounds to lube the sizer die.

    3. I won't be loading these boolits very hot. They will be used for target practice and shooting steel targets so a mild load with lighter recoil seems like it would be a good idea. Am I on the right track? Any suggestions?

    Thanks, Cloudpeak
    CP,

    1. I would size after I lubed. That's the easy and safe answer because you never mentioned how hard your bullets would be. After your die polishes up some, and you got the hang of things again, .............. But personally I use LQA this time of year because handgun get's fast enough to really heat things up. I can wait on a rifle to cool, but ....

    Anyway, save your lube containers. I lube in a plastic sandwitch bag for light, even application and in an open container for heavy coats. Just remember to cover your open container when you are finished so grit doesn't get into your loading chain. If you want to cover the slugs in powdered mica to avoid the stickiness and picking up dirt later, use another sandwich bag.

    2. Bullets size mostly by lengthening. In a perfectly smooth die, that is pretty much assured when only sizing a couple of .000. But a lubed bullet seems to hold it's shape a little better if soft and the die a little rough. Play with it. Look in the die every once in awhile. If you see lead build up, clean and make a decision.

    3. Uh huh? You expect us to believe that one? Just like when you were a kid and told your mom you wanted a bicycle just to ride around the house and that you would never ask for another thing. Right ..........

    I see the bug starting all over again at the first SIGN of a complication. Like maybe no one wanting to stand next to you at the range because you are Aloxing up the air. Better start setting some money aside and watching ebay for stuff. July and August are the best months for lower prices on casting stuff. I bought two Lyman's with multiple sizing dies for less than $50 each. Sold the dies and covered my costs on the press. And guess what? It works just the reverse for when you want to liquidate again. Probably sell it for more than you paid for it.

    Have fun!

  5. #5
    Boolit Master

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    One thing to watch for with TL boolits is lube buildup in the bullet seater die. Mnay of the old hands here have found ways to deal with that and they will be glad to share. But just keep an eye out for it I have seen oal length shorten .03" in 100 rounds with a heavy coating of TL.

    My Father in law has a 9mm XD and I am going to load him some ammo to try out.


    Bill
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  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy Cloudpeak's Avatar
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    <Buckshot> Why do you want to size unlubed slugs? If they're tumble lubed first, the sizing operation will push lube into the lube groove(s).
    "Any suggestions?"
    Ah.............. how about, buy more guns, get more moulds?...........<Buckshot>

    Buckshot, Thanks for the welcome. Lubing first and sizing sounds great. I think I might have read about relubing after sizing in a couple of posts. As far as more guns, molds, etc., I've pretty well hit the limit for now with the gun and Hornady LNL progressive press and bullet casting stuff. Gotta keep everything on the home front on an even keel. CP

    <Willbird> One thing to watch for with TL boolits is lube buildup in the bullet seater die. Mnay of the old hands here have found ways to deal with that and they will be glad to share. But just keep an eye out for it I have seen oal length shorten .03" in 100 rounds with a heavy coating of TL.<Willbird>

    Willbird, I had a buildup in the seater die when I loaded 500 Laser Cast bullets. I'll have to keep an eye on that. CP

    Thanks Back Ackward, Leftoverdj also for the tips and suggestions. I appreciate the thoughtful and quick replies everyone sent. I'll probably have more questions down the line.

    Cloudpeak

  7. #7
    Boolit Master Linstrum's Avatar
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    Welcome, Cloudpeak! How ya doin?

    Are you on the right track? Pretty much! By being here at this site you are definitely getting where you should be!

    I know shooting pipsqueak loads doesn't take a lot of powder compared to a .338 Win Mag rifle, but you've gotta get some less expensive fuel than the $25 per pound stuff that you are no doubt buying now.

    Okay, you other guys, since I am not a big pistol shooter and consequently the only surplus pistol powder I use is WC820, what kind of fuel should he be buying from Hi-Tech and Bartlett? I seem to recall that Hi-Tech's #107 and #109 might be what he needs. What say you learned gents?
    Last edited by Linstrum; 06-15-2005 at 03:59 PM.
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    There is no such thing as too many tools, especially when it comes to casting and reloading.
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    Safe casting and shooting!

    Linstrum, member F.O.B.C. (Fraternal Order of Boolit Casters), Shooters.com alumnus, and original alloutdoors.com survivor.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master

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    Thumbs up Lubing without the expense of a lubrisizer

    Way back when I first started casting I had a VERY LIMITED cash supply and did all of my loading and sizing with a Lyman 310 Tong Tool.
    The boolit sizing die for it is not unlke the Lee Sizing die. I made my own lube also (never heard of Alox in those days) and would work the lube into a long string about 2/3 the diameter of a pencil. I would roll it and a bollit between my thumb and first finger rolling it into the grooves in the boolit. I would then size them thru the die and the excess lube was cut off by the die and as it built up on the die face, I would scrape it off and use it to lube more boolits.

    I cast, sized and loaded many MANY thousand rounds like that.

    I think that is why I still have a thing for 44 Mag and Boolits.

    Good Luck.
    Amendments
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  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy Cloudpeak's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Linstrum
    Welcome, Cloudpeak! How ya doin?
    I know shooting pipsqueak loads doesn't take a lot of powder compared to a .338 Win Mag rifle, but you've gotta get some less expensive fuel than the $25 per pound stuff that you are no doubt buying now.
    Thanks for the welcome, Linstrum.

    I'm going to give Power Pistol a try with these 175 lead bullets. I worked up several very accurate loads for the 40 S&W using Unique but don't like how it measures thru my Hornady LNL powder measure. The Power Pistol is $15.00/lb.

    I used to use H110 and 2400 for my Ruger 44 Flat Top. I found a bunch of 250 grain Keith type bullets for the 44 that I cast many years ago so will have to load them up. I suppose I'll have to buy some new powder as the old stuff is at least 25 years old.

    Cloudpeak

  10. #10
    Boolit Master slughammer's Avatar
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    Maybe some WST

    Winchester has lead boolit data for WST, and it's one of my favorite powders so that's what I'm playing with right now. Might be better for the target level loads.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    25 Yr. Old Powder

    HI & WELCOME,
    If the powder has been kept dry & sealed don't throw it out use it.
    Just before I got married over 25 yrs. ago I bought 10 thousand primers of of each LRP,LPP, SPP & they are still good. I also bought a 20 lb keg of IMR 4198 & IMR 4350 & THEY ARE STILL GOOD.
    Go ahead & use it if it still looks good.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check