Good luck Randy,
My friend sent many Emails , the majority of which were ignored.
I don't know what those people are about , but is certainly isn't good customer relations and communications.
Ben
Good luck Randy,
My friend sent many Emails , the majority of which were ignored.
I don't know what those people are about , but is certainly isn't good customer relations and communications.
Ben
Reading this traffic on Richards Microfit Stocks is a bit of deja vu. I ordered a stock from these folks in 1990 - pre internet/email days. No joy. I called them several times. Ended up with a shouting match over the phone. Incredible poor customer relations. Seems 21 years later - no change.
Ray
Well I am making progress.... got the rough inleting done and am able to the action MOST of the way into the srock. Enough so that I need to find me something to use as inleting black, either some chalk or anti sieze ( I have some that contains Moly, Nasty black stuff it is ). then I will be ready to source some action bolt and start fitting the mag well adaptor. all in all pretty close realy I have the First 90% done!, all thats left now if the Second 90% and of course the Finishing 90% .... but assembly and test fire first
greywuuf :
Go to a paint store and buy a small tube of bright yellow paint pigment. Mix it with WD-40. Put a small amount of the yellow paint pigment in the bottom of a jelly glass and spray in some WD-40. Thin to the point that is is about the consistency of buttermilk and put it on your metal with a foam paint brush.
Makes some very good inletting marking compound. Easy to see. Works wonders.
When you coat your metal and set it inside the stock give everything a few taps with a rubber mallet. Ray Charles can easily see where the wood needs to be removed.
Keep a few old rags handy to keep your hands clean while handling everything.
Ben
I have a 1895 chilean mauser action and stock with all the hardware so I'm pretty sure that would work. However there is a nice 1891 argentine mauser action that I can swap bolts with as the one bolt does have the handle turned down for scope useage. Do they have a barrel threadd for the 1891 argy?. And since the argy mag will take a .45acp round (I tried it) do they make a properly threaded bbl for it. Couple bubba'd stocks I have and should be set. Frank
I have used purple lipstick, even my daughter doesn't like that color.
Frank, I don't know if it is on this thread, or one of the others, but Larry Gibson explained why the 91 won't work for a .45 ACP conversion.
I am goiung to have ot get one of these kits, I have a donor Spanish 93 action waiting.
Robert
hey does any one have any NEW pictures of their projects now. I am going to order my kit after the holidays are over. I and re-bluing my small parts and stripping the stock now. anyone doing a military stock build of this kit???
Last edited by dano440; 12-22-2011 at 12:30 AM.
I don't know how long these kits have been available but it seems we all discovered them about the same time.
Are any of you guys doing any extra work to your actions? squaring the front of the receiver, squaring bolt face, lapping the locking lugs, turn down bolt handle.
Not planning on doing a full blue print or anything, but I do have to "grind " the handguard ring threads off of the front of my action anyways, so I figured I might just as well chuck it up in the lathe and square it to the best of my ability.besides it will give me an excuse to build and action squareing "spider" tube anyway. I realy don't see the point in blue printing an action for a pre thread barrel. You don't have any idea if chamber is square and concentric with the bore or the outside contour anyway. The rest of my action is loose enough that trueing the ways is kinda pointless and any work on the bolt would result in a sleeve being required.....
Mine is getting a slightly cut down mil stock and is destined to be a fun, reasonbly accurate off hand plinker. As long as I have decent engagement on both lugs again I dont see the point in going any further. My next steps are finish the inletting enough to finish the build, test firing some and then parkerize and oil finish the stock. Sounds like a perfect "truck" gun to me
Homeland defense begins at home. I'm not there. Sent from a mobile device using a commercial app.
Last edited by greywuuf; 12-22-2011 at 03:51 PM.
Perhaps this has already been asked but I didn't see it, so... Does the magazine release need to be the high dollar extended kind or can one use just the regular 1911 release?
When it's time to fight, you fight like you are the third monkey on the ramp to Noah's Ark.... and brother, it's STARTING TO RAIN!!
You won't NEED an extended release BUT you may prefer one. I used a standard release from a military 1911 but I intend to get an extended release for mine. I'd guess a fellow would have to do some reliving to use an extended release and I'm sure you'd have to inlet the stock a little for an oversized release.
Edd
Last edited by badgeredd; 12-23-2011 at 09:45 AM.
Charter member Michigan liars club!
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Beware of man who types much, but says nothing.
[QUOTE=badgeredd;1512744]thanks I had some concerns but figured I would work around it.
How are these guns shooting? good accuracy? bad accuracy?
what bullets are you using? (shapes, weights, etc.)
do you think your are getting the claimed 300 fps more out of your bullets?
I personally am not going to get into this action very deep. I am interested in smooth feeding and reliable function but as far as all the accuracy upgrades, I think it is pointless. This is a 100 yard gun on the high end. "Minute of Chest" is about what we're looking for, and anything better will be a gift.
I see my gun as a car gun in the trunk if I need to deal with and insane person who is killing everyone at McDonalds, a gun to have around you if you need it, or something to go plinking with. It could also be used as a guerrella type weapon if that need arised, and would take a muffler easily, which if you all recall is the exact origin of this type of gun in WW2, IE: the Enfield conversions.
The main problem I see with he Rhineland kit is the ejector/bolt stop. I have been looking at mine trying to figure out another way to do something farther forward, but haven't come up with anything yet. But I will. You'll note that the enfield kit like Art has has a stud drilled and tapped into the side of the receiver ahead of the thumb cutout that acts as the bolt stop and ejector.
300 fps increase in velocity is conservative, and it should be that easily. This is standard for pistol ammo fired in Rifles and the same loads for my pistols in .44 do in fact come out of a rifle at 400-700 fps faster. Besides that you don't really want to run a .45 ACP bullet any faster than that anyway. Subconic speed, and better accuracy and shootability than a pistol is what you're looking for with this gun.
Randy
Last edited by W.R.Buchanan; 12-22-2011 at 03:04 PM.
"It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
www.buchananprecisionmachine.com
Randy:
yeah, I did not mean to imply I was going to blueprint this thing or spend any great deal of time with it, I was just kinda pointing out, all them "buzz word" things that people like to list off when talking about their stuff are kinda pointless with this build. I am in complete agreement with you about the expectations and uses of this slick little carbine. I think the main reason i am building one ( other than a stack of 1911 mags and an action readily at hand) is because it should be a just plain FUN little blaster.
Also have you considered just leaving the stock ejector in place ? granted you wil not get as "fast " of an action, but you wont develop bad habits about short stroking a full size bolt gun I have seen a couple of people that just forego the long bolt stop and they have said the stock one works fine as long as you full stroke the bolt in operation. I dont have any problem with that.
Last edited by greywuuf; 12-22-2011 at 03:53 PM.
dano440
How are these guns shooting? good accuracy? bad accuracy?
what bullets are you using? (shapes, weights, etc.)
do you think your are getting the claimed 300 fps more out of your bullets?
Accuracy depends on the bullet as usual. Testing at 50 yards; with Hornady 185/200 gr XTPs over 7.5 gr Unique at 1228/1230 fps I get 10 shot 1" groups. With 3 different lots of US Ball I got 10 shot groups of 2.75", 1.3" and 7.5". Velocities average just under 1000 fps. With commercial BB H&G 68s over 4 gr of Bullseye at 890 fps accuracy is 2" or less. Load 4.5 - 5 gr and accuracy goes south. My own Lee 195 gr SWC over 4.5 gr Bullseye does 957 fps with 2" or less accuracy. Again, load that bullet faster with any powder and accuracy goes south over 990 fps. A 230 cast over 4.5 Bullseye gives 911 fps with the same less than 2" group. Again, load that bullet faster with any powder and accuracy suffers.
Lyman's GC'd 452490 can be loaded to excellent 1 - 1.5" groups with several powders up to 1400+ fps. Jacketed 185s with those powders can also be pushed up there. However, I really want to keep my loads safe for the M1911 and M1917/25 S&W so those were only experimental loadings. However, top end load with ajcketed 185 - 230 gr will increase in velocity 150 - 300 fps over those obtained with the same loads in a 5" M1911.
I get reasonable feeding reliability with the 195 and 200 gr SWCs. The jump from the mag to the chamber is a long one and it's easy for the cartridge to not feed straight into the chamber. The soft lead edge of the noses will dig into the reinforcing ring where the extractory cut is and the edge of the barrel chamber in the M98. The bullet nose edges will also hang up on the chamber edge of M93/M95s.
Tweaking the magazine and extractor has helped a lot but feeding is still not 100% with those bullets. With RN, either cast or jacketed, and the jacketed 185 - 200 gr HPs feeding has been excellent from issue US magazines. Modern magazines with feed lipos that relase the cartridge early can cause the rim not to slip under the extractor.
Larry Gibson
Larry: Thanks for this info. It is good to have some idea where we are headed with these builds.
How do/did you deal with the bolt stop and ejector issue?
Randy
"It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
www.buchananprecisionmachine.com
Thanks Larry
you answered my concerns, about bullet shape and weight and feeding issues. did the tweaking of the magazine effect the use of your magazine in your 1911, is it a dedicated magazine now your rifle?
did you have any problems with your magazine follower and the gas port on the bottom of your bolt that some people are reporting?
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |