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Thread: Bull Plate: Substitute again

  1. #21
    Boolit Master

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    When I have heard the 2 cycle thing floated around, I thought it was probably a good guess, but as stated above, which one. When I was in the ATV/cycle/Snowmobile business, there were plenty of types/formulas, some lower ash, racing, injection vs premix, etc....

    Doug

  2. #22
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    I used synthetic 2 cycle oil in my last batch of speed green and honestly cant tell any difference in it and the original. Seems to work about as well for sprue plates too. I figure the quart I bought at Wally world should last me until Bullshop returns and the real thing once again flows.
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  3. #23
    Boolit Grand Master leftiye's Avatar
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    Any guesses on Lotak? I really want to try it, but Dan sent my money back.
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  4. #24
    Boolit Buddy LEADHOPPER's Avatar
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    If I am not mistaken, Lotak is speed green with carnuba wax added to it. Dan had posted it here at one time. I want to say it was 2 oz to standard speed green. Don't know if that was for Lotak soft or Lotak hard.

    Searched for it and found the post from Dan

    Originally Posted by Bullshop
    Add two oz pure carnauba per pound of lube. Stay away from the parafin.
    Pure carnauba flake is available from member Randyrat
    Last edited by LEADHOPPER; 10-19-2011 at 11:20 AM.

  5. #25
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    I have been using Amsoil full synthetic 2 stroke oil and I am tickled pink with it. I can see no difference in fact.

  6. #26
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by 357maximum View Post
    I have been using Amsoil full synthetic 2 stroke oil and I am tickled pink with it. I can see no difference in fact.
    When you say no difference in it, do you mean the galling or hinge pivot or lead buildup on the sprueplate & top of mold?

  7. #27
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    I can say that in my case, it performs almost exactly on par with bullplate, I have not measured to see if it lasts exactly the same length of time between applications, nor have I done any scientific studies to say conclusively that it is the same stuff. What I can say is that for my purposes, I see no difference in the behavior of the two substances. Bullplate was however slightly cheaper than the synthetic stuff I have.
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  8. #28
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    With Dan being an ex-logger...............I have reason to believe that his Bull Plate formula may be synthetic Bar Lube for chainsaws. ??????????????

    FWIW.

    RRR
    "I Make the part.............................that makes the parts"

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  9. #29
    Boolit Master

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    all is synthetic and for mold use it dont matter the name . That is only oil that will stand the hot temps . Some have a smell and some dont . but all are near the same
    But Kroil has a smell and it works for both lube and release

  10. #30
    Boolit Master Marlin Junky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 357maximum View Post
    I have been using Amsoil full synthetic 2 stroke oil and I am tickled pink with it. I can see no difference in fact.
    Hey Mike... where can I find some? There are no dealers in my area. I think there's a couple versions too.

    Thank,
    MJ

  11. #31
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    Try Stihl ultra HP MJ. Most places have a stihl shop and that is the stuff I've been using. Works great.
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  12. #32
    Boolit Master Marlin Junky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shotman View Post
    all is synthetic and for mold use it dont matter the name . That is only oil that will stand the hot temps . Some have a smell and some dont . but all are near the same
    But Kroil has a smell and it works for both lube and release
    There's a SiliKroil that contains silicone and I can't find that either.

    MJ

  13. #33
    Boolit Master
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    I use 2 stroke oil. Same color and odor of oil from Milhec. use synthetic or regular

  14. #34
    Boolit Master Marlin Junky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wiljen View Post
    Try Stihl ultra HP MJ. Most places have a stihl shop and that is the stuff I've been using. Works great.
    That's what I'm using and I must be pushing it's limits because it's not working as well as Bullplate. It's definitely thinner in consistency and I need to apply it more often in order to keep the base smearing under control. I'm currently casting big bore boolits over 300 grains from aluminum molds and I'm trying to keep up a quick and steady pace in order to limit weight variation. I can see where the Stihl HP would work fine for 30's from heavy ferrous molds though. I haven't tried it on my single brass mold (I need to rectify that situation with one or two of AM's products). Have you taken your melt's temp... mine usually runs 700+ while casting big boolits but I might be able to get away with a bit less heat. My alloy is pretty cheap though; i.e., only trace amounts of Sn.

    MJ

  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Red River Rick View Post
    With Dan being an ex-logger...............I have reason to believe that his Bull Plate formula may be synthetic Bar Lube for chainsaws. ??????????????

    FWIW.

    RRR
    Most chain saws are 2 cycle, it could be 2 cycle oil as well.
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  16. #36
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    Ed in North Texas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marlin Junky View Post
    There's a SiliKroil that contains silicone and I can't find that either.

    MJ
    You can buy it direct from Kano. www.kanolabs.com or 877-320-5757

    Ask for the "trial offer" Silikroil 16.5 oz aerosol $17.00 post paid. Or they will sell you a "test" of 2 aerosol cans @ $17.00 plus postage.

    Ed

  17. #37
    Boolit Master
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    Was just reading Paul Matthews book "Cast Bullets for the Black Powder Cartridge Rifle". One of his recommendations was treating the sprue plate with Brownell's Action Magic II, a two part dry lube. While it is intended for dry lubing actions (IIRC primarily developed for semi-auto pistols), he found it worked very well for sprue plate lube.

    I was advised it might be worthwhile to use snail mail to contact Dan (Bullshop). I tossed the packaging from my last order (Lotak hard) and don't have an address for him. Anyone able to supply that info?

    Ed
    Last edited by Ed in North Texas; 10-20-2011 at 11:19 PM.

  18. #38
    Boolit Master
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    I can't be possitive about this but- If you have a Caterpillar dealer in your town stop by their parts dept and look at their camshaft assemly lube. It looks identical to Bull Plate right down to the green color.

    You will have better luck at the Power Systems side of the dealership rather than the bulldozer side of their business. The power systems side is totally engine related. Once you get the Bulldozer guys past a set of tracks they are usually lost.

    I can get you fellas a part # if needed. I'm not saying they are the same or even close but they sure look and feel the same.

  19. #39
    Boolit Master
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    One more thought. Has anyone tried Militec? It might work very well for this use.

  20. #40
    Boolit Master semtav's Avatar
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    try high temp oven lube or turbine oil

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check