I shouldn't have posted that. Mt Uniflow quit metering W748 of all things. Gotta take it apart and see if it has trash in it.
Up until now it's been great, so this IS NOT A DIG.
I shouldn't have posted that. Mt Uniflow quit metering W748 of all things. Gotta take it apart and see if it has trash in it.
Up until now it's been great, so this IS NOT A DIG.
US Govt mantra: If it's moving tax it. If it's still moving regulate it. If it stops moving subsidize it
i started with lee ,,then got the #55 then bought an rcbs .
i use them all ......
i.m just sitting here watching the wheels go round and round..... i really love to watch them roll ,,,, J,W,L.
My perfect measure has been great. For H4350 stick i usually set it to throw a couple of tenths under and trickle the rest in to my 505 scale. Once i set it for w231 it is spot on from throw to throw. I check every 5 throw and have never had it be off with the w231. Does leak a slight amount with the ball powder but not enough to make a mess.
It is quite accurate and I have never had a problem with it.
When I first got my PPM I couldn't get it to throw consistent charges. I was on the point of throwing it away, but contacted Lee technical support instead. They replied swiftly and courteously and told me how to set it up properly; also advised me to work the handle slowly and gently.
Now I get accuracy +/- 0.1gn on a wide variety of powders. I'd say it's easily as good as my Lyman. But, if you want to get good performance out of it, you should treat it gently, as though you're afraid of waking it up...
I shot this 5 shot group at 50 yards over the weekend.
Powder was thrown with a Lee Perfect Powder measure.
Obviously, I have no complaints.
My perfect measure has performed beyond its purchase price for years, I only dislike the charge adjuster- it can be difficult and most of the paint has worn off the lines and numbers. I also have a CH4D measure that has its own personality but its micrometer charge adjustment is easier to adjust.
By the all-powerful dispensations of Providence, I have been protected beyond all human probability and expectation; for I had four bullets through my coat, and two horses shot under me, yet escaped unhurt, altho' death was levelling my companions on every side.
GEORGE WASHINGTON
I found it to be quite accurate. Also it measures any powder with absolutely no cutting. I did fabricate my own stand though because the one that came with it was a little flimsy. It does have a LOT stiffer of an action than my RCBS measure however. I can just let the handle drop on the RCBS but the Lee will hold whatever position you leave it in.
I find that most people using Lee products do so only because they are the cheapest thing they can buy. Many of these people are Lee fan boys (relative newbies) who started loading in the years since Lee graduated from making whack a moles to 7/8 -14 dies and presses. If you only use Lee tools you only know the Lee standard. Lee should sell a standard Lee rework kit consisting of a hammer and file and a long list of excuses for buying the cheapest tools around.
EDG
I'll have to second this as not truer words have been spoken about Lee products.
Secondly, I firmly believe that an IQ test should be given followed by 20 hours of intensive reloading classes before anyone is allowed to start reloading. The idea of being able to consistently throw a load with a powder measure is mind boggling. There are NO powder measures out there that will throw within .1 of a grain period. The ONLY way to obtain a accurate load is to come close with the powder measure and trickle in the rest. This will result in EVERY load being correct with NO chance of an overload or a squib.
I was fortunate enough to grow up and watch my father as he loaded shells for his 30-06. He was meticulous as he trickled a few pieces of the pencil type powder and dropped in a fraction of a piece with a pair of tweezers. He always told me to use the same technique when using the powder measure the same little tap each time to insure the powder coming from the measure was as uniform as possible with each load to minimize the trickling time.
It turns out he was correct...the extra time to do things right can result in increased accuracy. Why settle for a group that is 1.5-2" when a 1/2-3/4" group is possible?
When I first used my Powder Measure it leaked sooo bad. It leaked right from the bottom of the round line where the piece the measure barrel is connected to fits into the body of the measure. I could imagine the two pieces were not fitting together so as they turned there were gaps catching powder. When I stopped turning the center piece (reached the limit of the throw of the handle) the powder would drip out so badly you could watch it fall. I took it apart and found a screw with the same threads as the original screw but about about an inch or so longer. I screwed the longer screw into the threaded hole and attached my cordless drill to the screw. I mixed some lapping compound (jewelers rouge) with some olive oil to form a paste and applied it to the two mating surfaces. I reassembled the two mating pieces and attached my cordless drill to the screw. I held the assembly in my hand applying as much pressure as I could to squeeze the two pieces together as one turned. I turned the one side at a medium speed for about 2 minutes applying hand pressure as much as I could. After 2 minutes I took the two pieces apart, cleaned it with isoprople alcohol and found the lapping compound was working but there were obvious places where the voids still existed, especially around the outside edges where the fit must be tight to prevent leaks. Mixed up more lapping compound paste and did it for another 2 minutes checked again, added more paste and back at it for another 2 minutes. I believe i lapped the two surfaces for about 20 minutes until they mated well. I cleaned it up very well then put the assemblage back together. This time when I added powder not a drop leaked and since doing the lapping once I get it set it is dead on repeating. The key is to get those two mating surface to mate without voids and turn smoothly without presenting any crevices where powder could get into.
My powder baffle is made from a pop (aluminum soda) can using the pattern found on the internet.
Last edited by bbogue1; 02-20-2017 at 09:27 AM.
When you see comments like those from EDG and then from 6bg6a as follow-on posts to Ben's post, I just to just have to laugh. One has class to spare and the other two don't know any better than to post nonsense. Let me see, should I give more credence to Ben or the other two self-proclaimed experts???
The answer is obvious. There are many members on this forum that go out of their way to bash Lee products any chance they get. One of them claims to know "your" financial situation. And the other one thinks you need an IQ test to reload. That says all you need to know about them as individuals.
People have different experiences w/ different tools. You can't dismiss my results because they are solely mine. As soon as people start harping on the cost of Lee products you know they are full of it. They sound like an angry child that's mad because they spent to much for a product that doesn't work any better than the "poorly made cheap on. I will never say Lee molds are quality. I will tell people to avoid them. But their other products I will recommend. If they don't work then try another brand. You're not so heavily invested like w/ the other brands.
Proclaimed expert?
Sir,
I generally have knowledge on a particular subject before I am willing to share with others. I have on several occasions been able to partake of the great Lee product. To be blunt I found it to be an ill fitting leaking *** not worth its asking price and certainly not worth bothering with unless you have nothing better to do with your time. Have you done a comparison between it and other powder measures and posted the results? I must have missed the one you posted. I have on the other hand done some comparisons and have found it to be no more accurate and almost on par with brands like RCBS. What I despise about Lee products is their lack of attention to both detail and quality.
Unfortunately, I do own several Lee products. I own a taper crimp die for 9mm which kicks up a healthy burr on the case after being used......lot of quality there. I also own a set of Lee dies which was a total waste of money. Lastly, I own a universal decamping die which I enjoy the hell out of after fitting it with a decent decapping pin that doesn't bend every 200 rounds.
When posed with the question of wishing to own Lee products I'm afraid I will have to say strike 1, 2, 3 their out. When I purchased my powder measure many years ago I chose RCBS simply because it was a quality product. I would rather choose well and purchase once then choose foolishly and purchase several times.
Sir, it would seem that your childish attack on me is somewhat unfounded because I do have experience with Lee, have made comparisons between Lee and other products and found Lee to be somewhat lacking in my opinion in which I assume I am still entitled to so far on this forum.
With respect to my comment on reloading... it was probably somewhat harsh but well deserved for some. In my many years of reloading I have seen a number of horrors. I have seen people smoking while throwing charges and trickling them. I have seen the loss of attention that has resulted in both under charges and over charged loads. In addition I have personally witnessed on occasion a perfect 40mm explode due to a moron reloading improperly resulting in the bullet moving backward in the case resulting in increased pressure and the ruination of a good firearm.
So, to personally call me out as a nonsensical poster is rather crude to say the least. I am in this sport to enjoy it, to further it if I can and to pass any knowledge forward if it will benefit someone else. I don't believe I was arrogant like yourself personally depicting someone else's post as being nonsensical and with no merit.
I started with a blue Pacific with removable powder chamber (1964?), then used a Herter's (1968?) for 10plus(?) years, then a Lee Perfect Powder measure. I then got an RCBS Uniflow with small and large chambers thinking I was upgrading. I use the Lee Perfect, it is just a accurate as the RCBS, there is NO CRUNCH with long-grained (3031) or course(4831) powders, it is easier to empty when changing powders than the RCBS, and I can change charge weights faster. I do have a couple Lee Auto-discs, 2 Bonanza rotor-type, a Dillon, and Lee dippers. Every so often I review the new stuff and the high dollar stuff, but the Lee Perfect Powder measure just works well.
"I firmly believe that an IQ test should be given"
Yes, that is class
Missed this thread 5 years or so ago so spent half hour reading thru all posts. Very interesting until I got to today's resurrection.
I have several measures. Two Uniflows, one Lyman 55(just purchased from member), one Little Dandy w/many rotor's, a PPM and 4 Dillon measures(one for each setup). I'm not a benchrester and mostly load handgun cartridges, so all, with care, are accurate enough for my needs. I must admit that I bought the PPM as filler for a larger order from one of the mail order houses. My intention was to take it to the range but shelved that idea after one trip. Too windy.
I was curious when I read the post that reported using the PPM to measure black powder. I have always been under the impression that plastic was a NO-NO with black. It sure would be handy for loading vials of black powder for my Old Army. I could do that at the range.
John
W.TN
My final word on this. If sarcasm was your intention in "firmly believing" that I.Q. testing be administered, I believe you lack the gift of sarcasm.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |