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Thread: field stripping a marlin 1894s

  1. #21
    Boolit Master kingstrider's Avatar
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    After the first time you do this you could probably do it blindfolded with a timer. Marlins are great lever guns!
    Keep moving forward!

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
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    I had to replace the firing pin in a Model 36. Went to reassemble and no ejector. It wasn't lost, I knew right where it was, somewhere in my gun room. Moved everything in the place and finally gave up and put the rifle away. A week later I noticed that one of the little "v" shaped pieces of bark from the stove wood was lying on the floor. Picked it up and it turned out to be made of metal.

  3. #23
    Boolit Man chasw's Avatar
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    I too read the sticky on "field stripping" a Winchester Model 1886, if you can call it that. Marlin lever actions can be field stripped in a few seconds, compared to the extended journey the Winchester requires. I've heard Winchester Model 94s are even worse, with stories about rifles that have been in service for over 100 years, without ever being disassembled. One more thing about the Marlin rifles, both large and small, their actions are butter smooth. Compare that to the awkward clunky-ness of the Winchester 94. - CW
    Three millions of people, armed in the holy cause of liberty, and in such a country as that which we possess, are invincible by any force which our enemy can send against us. - Patrick Henry, March 1775

  4. #24
    Boolit Bub ka0tqv's Avatar
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    COPPER PLATED BULLET fot MARLIN 1894c

    Anyone had any experience with the FULLY copper plated bullet in the 357 MAGNUM cal? If so would like to know what your loads were and did it reduce leading? Just got a new 1894c, haven't fired it yet and trying to get info on handloading for it. Also who supplies copper plated bullets? Thanks Carl
    **********************************************
    Wife sez "Why do you put catnip in front of your targets?"

  5. #25
    Moderator Emeritus / Trusted loob groove dealer


    waksupi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka0tqv View Post
    Anyone had any experience with the FULLY copper plated bullet in the 357 MAGNUM cal? If so would like to know what your loads were and did it reduce leading? Just got a new 1894c, haven't fired it yet and trying to get info on handloading for it. Also who supplies copper plated bullets? Thanks Carl
    I don't know about the copper plated bullets. But, if you just get the proper size cast bullets, you will have no leading. If you have copper coated lead, all you will end up with is a badly copper fouled bore, if the bullets are not the correct size. I have rifles I have fired hundreds of cast rounds through with zero leading.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  6. #26
    Boolit Mold leadchucker's Avatar
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    Hey guys would you pull down a rossi rio grande 30 30 the same way?

  7. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by TGM View Post
    The 1889 Marlin comes apart the same way with the exception the ejector is held in by a screw.

    TGM
    Some very early Marlin models of 1893 can also come with a similar screw in ejector. In such rifles the end of the screw tip appears on the left side of the receiver above the carrier screw. If you damage this old style ejector and can't replace it, or hand make another, the head of a suitable sized screw can be cut off and the threaded shank turned into the preexisting screw hole to act as a filler. The circular depression left on the inside of the receiver (where the screw head would have fitted) can be used to accept the removable newer style ejector and spring combination. The nubbin on the new ejector is the same diameter and thickness as the screw head you just cut off.

  8. #28
    Boolit Bub
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    RV Pilot76: That is an excellent reference link for slicking up an action

  9. #29
    Boolit Bub
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    Excellent link and info.

  10. #30
    Boolit Bub Neo's Avatar
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    Thanks for a great article I going to check out the web site to smooth out my 1894 357

  11. #31
    Boolit Master wbrco's Avatar
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    Thanks for the excellent post. I won't be afraid to strip my 1894 .357 now!

  12. #32
    Boolit Master
    dragonrider's Avatar
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    In relation to what is above, would an original marlin carrier, in an 1894, be blued??? I seem to think that it would be simply because every thing else in there is blued. Am I wrong? The one in my gun right now is silver, actualy looks like a frosted boolit and it ain't doing well at all. I am getting some jamming on virtually every round I cycle and have read about the fix and it says replace the carrier, even gives the part # from Brownells. Any help is appreciated
    Paul G.
    Once I was young, now I am old and in between went by way to fast.

    The end move in politics is always to pick up a gun.
    -- R. Buckminster Fuller

  13. #33
    Boolit Master
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    Referring back to deputy Al's first sentence in the #2 post above, I have never had one itty-bit of trouble in stripping a Winchester 1894 down to bare screws. On the other hand, getting it back together; that is another story. LOL

    prs

  14. #34
    Boolit Master
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    OK...OK...call me old.....call me stupid....call me 'old and stupid'...but there is a 'movie' or so.. pictures that show how to field strip an old Marlin 30/30 from the late 70s? Picture..step 1....picture...step 2....yadda...yadda...yadda??

    Just got my brothers old 30/30.... from a closet from 25 years ago and i need to 'clean and inspect'....

    thanks guys....

    Nose Dive

    Cheap, fast good. Kindly pick two.

  15. #35
    Boolit Master
    9.3X62AL's Avatar
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    I haven't looked for myself......but I can't help thinking that YouTube must have a number of such videos already in place. It is A LOT more complex a process to write out than it is to perform.
    I don't paint bullets. I like Black Rifle Coffee. Sacred cows are always fair game. California is to the United States what Syria is to Russia and North Korea is to China/South Korea/Japan--a Hermit Kingdom detached from the real world and led by delusional maniacs, an economic and social basket case sustained by "foreign" aid so as to not lose military bases.

  16. #36
    Boolit Man

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    Handy note: For basic field stripping and - especially - in the event of clearing hard jams, you will need to drop the lever. In the case of jams, the lever screw is under pressure and it's very easy to bugger the screw head. It is a worthwhile investment to spend $15 - $20 for an over-sized lever screw with a knurled rim. I know this is expensive for a single screw, but over time it will prove its worth many times over.

    Best regards
    Doc

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check