Load DataRepackboxMidSouth Shooters SupplyTitan Reloading
Reloading EverythingSnyders JerkyWidenersRotoMetals2
Lee Precision Inline Fabrication
Results 1 to 14 of 14

Thread: Homemade tumbler motor help

  1. #1
    Boolit Grand Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Kaneohe, HI
    Posts
    5,583

    Question Homemade tumbler motor help

    I'm trying to make a rotory tumbler.
    I have a motor from a Bosch washing machine.
    Can't find the wiring diagram.
    Someone know anything about these motors????

    There are 5 blue wires and one white wire in a gang plug.
    The white wire is a grounding wire.
    It looks like two of the blue wires from the gang plug attach to, what looks like, a speed sensor on the rear of the motor.
    The other three go into the motor body.
    This was a 110v washing machine.

    I think if I can get this motor to work, it would make a great tumbler motor.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    4,382
    Is the white wire attached to the frame of the motor?

    Do you have a multimeter that you can run a resistance check on the motor leads?

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Kiln, Mississippi
    Posts
    439
    Is this what your motor looks like? Note "speed sensor" on motor endbell.
    http://www.nailor.com/pdf/ECM_1.pdf
    If it is an ecm motor, they are very high dollar motors. Not going to go into an explanation here / now, but if it is, they are specialized for their application. Not to say you can't use it to build a tumbler. I'm subscribed to this thread.
    Jeffrey
    Last edited by Jeffrey; 07-22-2011 at 11:07 PM. Reason: Had more to add

  4. #4
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Lesage WV
    Posts
    2,433
    treadmill motor works better

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
    DCM's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Upper midwest
    Posts
    1,681
    Quote Originally Posted by shotman View Post
    treadmill motor works better
    +1 find an old treadmill by the side of the road that someone finally realized they are not going to use. Take the long belt off and shorten the bed to accommodate your drum so it fits between the rollers. You will have a variable speed tumbler with minimal fuss.

    The wash machine motor will require a great deal of speed reduction to keep your drum from going in to orbit. The treadmill setup has all the speed reduction and control you need built in.

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    125
    Picture of a tumbler I made 35 years ago from a scrapped furnace blower motor and pulleys from a 1960's to early 70's clothes dryer. Drum is plywood, can tumble large amounts of brass in a hurry with corn cob media with some liquid car scratch remover added.


  7. #7
    Boolit Master
    bumpo628's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    1,256
    Quote Originally Posted by DCM View Post
    +1 find an old treadmill by the side of the road that someone finally realized they are not going to use. Take the long belt off and shorten the bed to accommodate your drum so it fits between the rollers. You will have a variable speed tumbler with minimal fuss.

    The wash machine motor will require a great deal of speed reduction to keep your drum from going in to orbit. The treadmill setup has all the speed reduction and control you need built in.
    Like this:


    and you can take your pulse while you tumble too...
    Ronald Reagan once said that the most terrifying words in the English language are: "I'm from the government and I'm here to help".
    Download my alloy calculator here: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=105952

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Kaneohe, HI
    Posts
    5,583

    Smile Photos

    Thanks for all the help.
    I've posted so photos.
    I've never seen a motor with this kind of wiring before.

    There are six wires. Five blue and one white.
    I checked the resistance between the wires.
    First three are seperate from the last two.
    Last two go to, what I think, is a speed sensor on the back of the motor.
    First three have the same resistance in any combination.
    White is attached to the body. To me, it's the ground.

    I have a few treadmill motors, but there being reserved for my drill press, band saw and lathe.
    Always on the lookout for more on trash days.
    So many projects, so little time.


  9. #9
    Boolit Master
    bumpo628's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    1,256
    If it was 240v, then the three wires would make sense. However, since it is 110v that seems kind of odd. Maybe the three wires are for a sensor and the two in the back are for power. Have you tested those two?
    Ronald Reagan once said that the most terrifying words in the English language are: "I'm from the government and I'm here to help".
    Download my alloy calculator here: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=105952

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Phoenix, Arizona
    Posts
    6,213
    The motor is probably at least a 2 speed, more likely 3 speed so this would account for the extra wires.

  11. #11
    In Remembrance

    DukeInFlorida's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    East and South of you
    Posts
    3,566
    Google is your friend.

    Here's a reference to what the six wires are:
    http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1875430

    Scroll down to the next to last post...........

    "The 6 leads (starting from the 2 thinnest wires) are: 1 & 2 tacho generator - 3 & 4 armature circuit - 5 & 6 field winding. The problem being that it is impossible to know the correct orientation of the field winding in relation to the armature circuit. If either gets swapped around the direction of rotation changes, which may cause problems."


    NRA Life Member
    NRA Certified Metallic Cartridge Reloading Instructor

    Author of a book on reloading
    ILSA MEMBER http://www.internationallawnsteelsho...ssociation.com
    NRA RANGE SAFETY OFFICER


  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master

    Wayne Smith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Hampton Roads, Virginia
    Posts
    13,649
    Washing machine motor (upright) has to be at least two speed (wash and spin) and reversable (back and forth wash cycle) along with some sophisticated electronic controls. If it had a delicate cycle then a three speed motor would be required. How much of this do you need for a tumbler? Can you disconnect everything except "go" and use mechanical (pully) speed reduction?
    Wayne the Shrink

    There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!

  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Kaneohe, HI
    Posts
    5,583
    With the great help from jsizemore I got the motor to work.
    Ununfortunately I failed to notice that it didn't have an internal fan.
    Not sutable for my tumbler plans.

    The white is the ground.
    The two last wires are for the speed sensor.
    The last three wires are used in different combinations to get different speeds and reverse.

    Thanks for all the help.
    I'm going to start looking for another free treadmill.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master hunter64's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    646
    I recovered a motor from an old dryer and it works perfectly. Also an old furnace motor works fine, just have to play with the size of the pulleys for the proper speed of the drum that is turning. As other posters have mentioned a great source is treadmill motors, they can be adjusted very easily for speed.
    Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch.
    Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote. -Benjamin Franklin, 1759

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check