Please show off you're .32's

[swamp]

These are the few I have, Ruger single six , two Taurus consective serial nos. and the newest, a Marlin 87. All 32 H&R, but the Marlin. Its 32 S&W.

[David LaPell]

Smith M & P .32-20 with Wondersight and Mershon adaptor

[Wheeler]

Smith M & P .32-20 with Wondersight and Mershon adaptor

Now that looks like a shooter!

[kyle623]

Here's my H&R 32 revolver. I'm not sure what model. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/pict...pictureid=4228

[georgewxxx]

These are all I have after trading off 3 that I couldn't get to shoot to my satisfaction. Believe it or not, the little Detective Special will out shoot most everything else. The Charter Undercoverette is a "belly gun" only. The 1903 Colt .32ACP replaced my Savage I didn't like. The Smith is a teens vintage Hand ejector with original red box.
The slugs are all Ideal/Lyman. 311316, 308244, 313445, 311419, 313249, 313492.

[Wayne Smith]

Speaking of .32 long guns, what are the options other than the Winchester 94's and Rossi 92's? I'm thinking specifically of a .32 Mag.

Wheeler

Yeah, not a whole lot of choices in 32 Mag. Most of them are older and in 32-20 - very popular small animal and pest guns at one time in history.

[Wheeler]

Yeah, not a whole lot of choices in 32 Mag. Most of them are older and in 32-20 - very popular small animal and pest guns at one time in history.

After talking to NoZombies, I got to thinking about an old, worn out Hopkins & Allen falling block I have sitting in the basement. I don't think the steel is thick enough for a .32 Mag or a .327 Mag but it might be ok for a .32 Long. A good starter project.

[Ken77539]

This is my .32 Hand Ejector Model of 1903, First change. This gun is built on S&W's small I frame. In my hand, “small” is an understatement.

[EMC45]

That picture is almost comical...

[mjackson]

This is my first one!

[NoZombies]

This is my first one!

Man, I am so jealous of that gun, It's beautiful, and I know those things are built like tanks.

I look forward to seeing how you get it shooting, Congrats on the acquisition!

[mjackson]

Thanks, I can't wait either!

[StrawHat]

This is my first one!

I am not current on firearms, make and model, please.

[Jal5]

I have two in 32 ACP, both from my uncle/godfather as war trophys. I found them in my mom's basement, pretty rusty and minus firing pins but I got them both in working order and enjoy shooting them while remembering my favorite uncle!

I need one of those grip screws- anyone got an idea on finding a replacement?

Bayard and a Mauser 1934.

[Multigunner]

This is my .32 Hand Ejector Model of 1903, First change. This gun is built on S&W's small I frame. In my hand, “small” is an understatement.

Thats a big paw you have there, its a wonder you can get your finger through the trigger guard.
My .32 Hand Ejector looks the same as yours, same barrel lenght of around 4+ inches. Serial number search indicated 1920's production.
Mine has the older style side sprung hammer block that was later changed over to the up and down sliding block due to rust or fouling disabling the block and allowing the firing pin to contact a primer.
First thing I did was to strip down and clean the internals to be sure the side sprung block moved as it should. Something that should be checked with all of these older models.

Originally Posted by David LaPell
Smith M & P .32-20 with Wondersight and Mershon adaptor

Wonder if they made these rear sights for the I frame as well?

[Wheeler]

NoZombies got me to thinking about taking better pictures bcause basically, mine suck. So I tried a couple of different things with lighting and angle.

16-4




Here's one of my 1903 HE.



I'm not too happy with this picture, as it shows every scratch in the nickel, of which there are quite a few. For posterity.

[NoZombies]

Great looking photos Wheeler, Thanks for sharing!

[StrawHat]

(Not trying to hijack the thread)

Bouncing the light from the ceiling or other bright object will help the photos. So will filtering the light through a light colored material. Be careful as the color of the material will sometimes influence the photo, ie a reddish tint froma light red cloth.

[Wheeler]

(Not trying to hijack the thread)

Bouncing the light from the ceiling or other bright object will help the photos. So will filtering the light through a light colored material. Be careful as the color of the material will sometimes influence the photo, ie a reddish tint froma light red cloth.

Thanks StrawHat! More ideas to try out. Speaking of which, there's a video out with a professional photographer taking studio quality photos with nothing but an Iphone some of the reflective windshield visors, and of course models. He had quite a bit to say about the use of lighting.

I used some MR16 25 watt lamps, basically what's used to illuminate artwork to light those shots. The color on the M16-4 is pretty close. I'll try some sort of reflector or filter next time to see about reducing the glare spots.

Wheeler

[Dale53]

`The easiest way to use light to get really good pictures without spending a fortune on lighting is to use "open shade". For some time, I took most of my magazine covers using open shade in my "Florida Room" (screened porch with light on three sides with a white ceiling. The definition of details is astonishing.

I now use studio strobes with home built "scrims" so that I can take photos in any weather condition or time of day. However, the open shade pictures rival the best artificial light and it is relatively easy to do.

FWIW
Dale53