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Thread: Fieldstripping The Winchester/Miroku 1886 Tutorial

  1. #1
    Boolit Master steveb's Avatar
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    Fieldstripping The Winchester/Miroku 1886 Tutorial



    Field-stripping The Winchester/Miroku 1886 Tutorial
    By: Steve Barrett

    The following is not new information, or information that cant be had from a firearms disassembly book, but I have not found any information with pictures of the process as far as field-stripping the Winchester/Miroku 1886. I also ordered a video from AGI(American Gunsmithing Institute) on the 1892/1886 Winchesters. I am already familiar with the 92 design, so I bought the video just for the 86 material. The video mentions nothing or shows nothing on the procedures of field-stripping the Winchester 1886. I thought it might be helpful to those who own these fine leveractions to have a field-stripping tutorial, (some body's gotta do it! ). I hope this helps and I sure had fun putting it all together....Steve.
    P.S. This contains lots of photos and may load up slow, so please be patient



    STEP ONE: Remove the upper and lower tang screws and pull buttstock straight off the rear of the receiver. The upper tang screw goes all the way through and screws in the bottom tang. The lower tang screw is a wood screw.



    STEP TWO: With the action closed pull the hammer to rear and remove the receiver (hammer) screw. You want to captivate the mainspring before removing the receiver (hammer) screw. This coil mainspring is strong and may fly to the next room if not held in place. You can use a paper clip or similar item to hold the mainspring in place.


    STEP THREE: After removing the receiver (hammer) screw, open the lever and pull the lower tang straight back out of the receiver. At this time the hammer will drop out as well.

    Pictured below is the hammer and lower tang assembly. The trigger assembly was not taken apart
    Last edited by steveb; 01-14-2007 at 01:37 AM.
    [SIGPIC]http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m193/stevensavage/avatars/reloadnPalacescriptresized.jpg[/SIGPIC]

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    Boolit Master steveb's Avatar
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    Continued

    ACTION DISSASEMBLY

    STEP ONE: Remove the Spring Cover Screw from the right hand side of the receiver.

    (SPRING COVER ASSEMBLY)


    STEP TWO: Unscrew the carrier stop screw and remove the carrier stop from underneath the upper tang.


    STEP THREE: With the action part way open, unscrew the locking bolt stop pin screw from the left locking bolt. This will allow the locking bolt pin to be pushed out of the lever and locking bolts from right to left. Now pull out both locking bolts from bottom of receiver

    If you have trouble pulling the right locking bolt out of the bottom of the receiver, move the cartridge guide up or down, whichever is necessary, to allow the locking bolt to be pulled out.


    STEP FOUR: Lower the finger lever and slide the Breech Bolt out of the receiver far enough to see the lever and Breech Bolt Pin. Use a punch to drift out the Breech Bolt Pin out of the Breechbolt.


    After removing the Breech Bolt Pin, pull lever out of the bottom of the Breechbolt and slide the Breechbolt out of the receiver.

    Be careful when pulling out the Breechbolt as the Ejector, Ejector Spring, and Ejector Collar is now loose and can fall out the front of the Breechbolt. Once the Breechbolt is out of the receiver remove the Ejector, Ejector spring, and Ejector Collar out the front of the Breechbolt.


    (BREECHBOLT ASSEMBLY)
    Last edited by steveb; 01-14-2007 at 01:35 AM.
    [SIGPIC]http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m193/stevensavage/avatars/reloadnPalacescriptresized.jpg[/SIGPIC]

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    Boolit Master steveb's Avatar
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    Continued

    The firing pin is of the inertia type and can be removed by using a punch to drift out the Extractor pin. Once the Extractor pin and Extractor are removed the inertia firing pin can be pulled out of the rear of the breechbolt.


    STEP FIVE: Slide the Lever, Carrier Hook and Carrier out the back of the receiver. Notice how these parts go together for reassembly. The Carrier Hook connects the Lever And Carrier by the lower hole in the lever and (rides in the middle of the Carrier) a channel cut out of the Carrier


    I didnít take the rifle down any further, but if need be you can remove the Cartridge Guide and Cartridge Stop from the receiver.

    To remove the cartridge guide simply unscrew the cartridge guide screw from the right side of the receiver and remove the Cartridge Guide from inside the right hand side of the Receiver


    To remove the Cartridge Stop, unscrew the Cartridge Stop Screw from the left side of the receiver.

    (The Cartridge Stop is highlighted in the picture below.)
    [SIGPIC]http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m193/stevensavage/avatars/reloadnPalacescriptresized.jpg[/SIGPIC]

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    Boolit Master steveb's Avatar
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    Continued

    Now to get all these parts back in the í86!


    REASSEMBLY

    Reassemble In Reverse Order

    To get the Lever, Carrier Hook, and Carrier to stay together for reassembly it is much easier to use a rubber band to hold these parts together. If not, you can become frustrated in short order.

    STEP ONE: Slide the Breechbolt assembly partway into the receiver. Slide the Carrier, Carrier Hook, and Lever into the rear of the receiver.


    Lineup the Lever and Breechbolt and insert the Breechbolt Pin into the Breech Bolt. You will need to make sure the firing pin, and Ejector is both pushed in far enough into the bolt, and that the lever is lined up at the same time so the Breechbolt Pin can be pushed into the Breechbolt. Fun isnít it? This is just about the time you wished you had a third hand, but in no time you will have these lined up and the Breechbolt Pin inserted.

    (Lever and Breechbolt pin hole lined up and Breechbolt Pin inserted)


    Slide the Breechbolt, Lever, and Carrier on in the receiver. Once you get these parts into the receiver far enough discard the rubber band. Now on to the Locking Bolts.

    STEP TWO: Insert the Locking Bolts in from the bottom of the receiver and install the Locking Bolt Stop Pin and screw. Again if you have problems inserting the right Locking Bolt, move the Cartridge Guide up or down whichever is necessary to allow the right Locking Bolt to go up into the receiver. The right Locking Bolt has a groove cut into it to move the Cartridge Guide up and down while the action is cycled.


    STEP THREE: Install the Spring Cover Assembly.

    STEP FOUR: Install the Carrier Stop and Carrier Stop Screw to the underside of the Upper Tang


    STEP FIVE: Install the Hammer and Lower Tang Assembly back in the rear of the receiver. Again this is somewhat of a juggling act and a third hand could come in handy at this point. You need to keep the Lower Tang pressed in while making sure the Trigger is pulled back while aligning the holes in the Hammer and Carrier. Use a punch to help align the parts.


    When you get the Receiver Screw pushed halfway in take a punch and align the carrier so the Receiver Screw can be pushed on in and screwed in the Receiver. If you removed the Mainspring during this process it needs to be captivated. An easy way to captivate the Mainspring for reassembly is to install the hammer in the Lower Tang outside the Receiver, then insert the Receiver (Hammer) Screw into the Lower Tang, then allow the Hammer to fall as far forward as possible and insert the Mainspring and Hammer Strut in the Lower Tang. Pull the Hammer back compressing the Mainspring. Once the Mainspring is captivated, pull the Receiver (Hammer) Screw out of the Lower Tang. (Thanks for the tip Griff!)

    STEP SIX: : Install the Buttstock.
    [SIGPIC]http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m193/stevensavage/avatars/reloadnPalacescriptresized.jpg[/SIGPIC]

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
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    steveb, thank you for the time and efot to post the winchester instructions.
    i have a trapper in 44 mag. would this model pretty much follow the same
    instructions as those posted for the 1886&1892? dan

  6. #6
    Boolit Master DUKE NUKEM's Avatar
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    Yes that was a fantastic Tutorial.
    If someone out there with a color copier could print this up and send it to me I would be glad to pay for it.




    MY TRIO OF WINCHESTER 1886 45-70's (large)

    Top one is a SOLID FRAME
    Bottom two are TAKE DOWNS



  7. #7
    Boolit Master Scrounger's Avatar
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    SteveB, if you could do the same thing for Winchesters 1892 (or Rossi), it would be a big help to some of us who own them.

    Duke, why don't you just save the thread on your computer or email the thread to yourself. Works for me....

  8. #8
    Boolit Mold
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    Thanks for information.I just traded and got a 1 of 500
    mat finished,takedown modle,streight grip,a thing of
    wonder.Im loading 409 grain Lymans cast, behind ACC,2200
    starting load [buy the book] is 38 grains velocity,1524 f/s
    pressure is 16,700 c.u.p. I will post how this load works out.
    I bought this powder for $45 for 8 lbs.I use it in my 308 wtr.
    and my j.p.ar15.this powder burnd clean and im shooting 1/2
    inch groupes at 200 yards.[no bull]I just joined and this club is
    a real learning experance.thanks to all who post and share there
    knowledge.

  9. #9
    Boolit Mold
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    Having just acquired an 1876 Chaparral 45-75, I'd really like to locate similar instruction for taking it apart .

  10. #10
    Boolit Mold
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    Last night I began an effort to disassemble my "71".

    I immediately found that the "1886" instructions do not correlate to the "71".

    By following the "1886" instructions, you will not be able to disassemble your model 71 and then reassemble it?

    Here are a few items on the "71" that I came across that were not addressed in the "1886" write up.

    1] The first hint is that the "71" has only one tang screw. No bottom wood screw.

    2] The coil main spring is held in place with a "keeper" and the keeper is held by a cross pin that goes through the lower tang, not a hammer screw.

    3] When the hammer spring is removed, two miniature springs "fall out". These two springs are for the trigger, and were never mentioned.

    4] The two vertical bolt locking bars are secured by a cross screw into a piece that rolls when you try to remove its screw and there is nothing available to keep the screw and its receptacle from turning. Very difficult to get the screw to come out.

    5] The lower tang section does not easily come out of the receiver. I have yet to find the trick to getting the lower tang to release from the receiver section.

    There may be other items also.

    So far I have not seen any write-up from someone that has actually documented the disassembly procedure for the model 71.

    Displaced Texan

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    1886 Winchester & Miroku parts???

    Looking for help putting back togather a 1886 Winchester .33WCF. I need a cartridge guide and a lower tang. I may be able to weld the lower tang togather and salvage it. But I can't find a cartridge guide. Will the Miroku parts fit ?-or- do you know where I can get a cartridge guide??? Any help is greatly appreciated...Thanks...Tedly

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy veeman's Avatar
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    Would this be the same instructions for the Browning 1886 SRC?

  13. #13
    Boolit Master DUKE NUKEM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by veeman View Post
    Would this be the same instructions for the Browning 1886 SRC?
    The Browning don't have all that junk on it.

  14. #14
    Boolit Bub
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    Brings back an old memory: A half-century ago, I usta help my buddy, Harry Connolly blue guns. One day he got in an '86 Winchester. It was my job to polish the guns. We used only abrasive cloth, no wheel of any kind. THe rifle belonged to Othello Chilton who said don't bother to put it back together, just blue it. Well, being the smart A**, I took ever screw out and shook the rifle to get it apart. Harry was quite busy bluing another gun. Once the parts of the 86 were polished and blued, we put them in a cloth sack and sent them back to Clilli. Welllll you shoulda heard it! YOU DIN"T PUT THE (()_+_++++&^^% GUN BACK TOGHER!! the "But you said...fell upon deaf ears. What I'd have given for this tuorial! all those years ago!~!

  15. #15
    Boolit Man
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    I just got a USRAC XT light,in a trade,did the "scovill" mod,but still kept the "rebound half cock" operational.Have yet to retest it.

    I did remove the extractor/pin,and it does not seem to be actually holding in the firing pin/spring,or else it would have shot out across the room.

    Is there something I`m missing??

    thanks

    Bill

  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy
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    I have one in 40-82. I was scared to take it apart myself so I took it to a gunsmith to get it checked out. After looking at the parts on here, im glad I didnt take it apart after all

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check