Some MOULD preparation questions

[piwo]

As I inch closer to casting my first "boollit", I have some questions on mould preparation. I really must have lucked out with my Lyman roundball mould, as all I did was clean it well with spirits, pre-heat it, and start casting. I am awaiting delivery of a Lee REAL 54 caliber mold, and I look at the instructions posted on the Lee site for mold preparation, and I’m a little confused.

The instructions have 4 steps prior to adding any lead to the mold, and it is # 4 that has me asking questions. According to steps 1-3, I will have thoroughly cleaned the mold with mineral spirits, used a wooden match to “smoke the mold”, then dipped a corner of the mold into the heated lead to “pre-heat” the mold. Then #4:

“Lubricate your mold. Very lightly touch bullet lubricant to the sprue bushing, “V” ribs and locating cross pin. Use LEE BULLET LUBE #90007. Do not use LIQUID ALOX as it will bake onto surface and prevent proper closure. Lube Core Pin on Minnie and H.P.”

Do I lubricate the whole inside of the mold, or only “Very lightly touch bullet lubricant to the sprue bushing, “V” ribs and locating cross pin.”? If the whole mould, how, with what impliment? That sucker will be hotter then a two dollar.. well, you know.....

I guess I’m a little confused as to why you “smoke the mold”, which is dry, and then put a wet lube inside it, after it gets hot? I don’t want to ruin this new Lee mold? Now, I have searched the site for tips using “key words”, but the multitude of posts, of which only some speak to the topic, is a bit overwhelming. Is there a sticky here covering ‘new mold break in”, or something to that effect? Lacking that, can someone walk me through this process in practical terms? I’ll buy the appropriate LUBE for the mold as directed, or if there is a preferred lube here to replace that LEE BULLET LUBE, I’ll use that. I’ve seen recipe’s for several different lubes on these boards, and I’m not sure if they are all for the same purpose.

I know I’m probably being a bit dense, but I’m not understanding the ”why”, and so I’m reluctant to just “do”.

Thanks for you patience…

[RevRich]

Smoking the mold adds a layer of carbon that acts as a mould release. If you use some other mould release agent you don't need to smoke the mould.

Be very carefull lubing the mould. If any grease or oil gets inside the mould you will not be able to cast usable boolits. Use just enough bullet lube to allow the sprue cutter plate to pivot smoothly. This amount is roughly equal to a kernal the size of the head of a pin. The hot mould will instantly melt the lube and it will wick into the pivot.

[cherok9878]

piwo, Bullshop, a member here makes and sells a sprue plate lube that is very good and very cheap, send him a PM he will get back to you.......larry

[454PB]

I quit lubing my many Lee moulds years ago. Lubing causes more problems than it solves in my opinion. I use my sprue knocker to align the mould halves as they are closed by holding it at the base of the blocks. Some of my Lee moulds have cast 10,000 boolits without lube and still work just fine.

[Dale53]

454PB;
For a number of years, I would have agreed with you. However, after I tried Bullshop's Sprue Plate Lube I now disagree. I use Bullshop's lube carefully, just as described in the information that comes with it and It is ALL positive.

Dale53

[piwo]

Ok... Thanks guys. I guess I just took the wording too granular. When it said: Lube the Mold".. I’m thinking damn, HOT mold, then grease, and then pour lead into it? Just didn't track, but wanted to follow instructions.

I had hoped that the mould would arrive prior to the weekend for some weekend casting, then shooting on Monday since I'm off work. But it will be cold here this weekend, and I've not fabricated my indoor ventilation system, so probably not going to happen. But you never know......

Thanks again!

[Cloudpeak]

454PB;
For a number of years, I would have agreed with you. However, after I tried Bullshop's Sprue Plate Lube I now disagree. I use Bullshop's lube carefully, just as described in the information that comes with it and It is ALL positive.

Dale53

Are you using Bullshops lube for pin lube and sprue plate pivot lube?

Hmm, I didn't get any written material when I ordered my lube.

Cloudpeak

[NVcurmudgeon]

piwo, indoor ventilation system? I use wind and open doors for ventilation. (Assuming you are casting in the garage, shed, or other place not in the house.) It has worked well enough to keep my blood tests normal for nearly 40 years of making good boolits. Lead will not vaporize and become a breathable hazard until 1200 degrees, a temperature much too high to be useful to us. Now, grease, paint, dog urine, melted rubber, old chaw, etc. found in wheelweights before smelting is NASTY. Keep your gloves on, don't eat, drink, or smoke while castng, and wash up good afterwards. Get to casting so you can generate more questions for board members to answer, we are always recruiting.

[piwo]

piwo, indoor ventilation system? I use wind and open doors for ventilation. (Assuming you are casting in the garage, shed, or other place not in the house.) It has worked well enough to keep my blood tests normal for nearly 40 years of making good boolits. Lead will not vaporize and become a breathable hazard until 1200 degrees, a temperature much too high to be useful to us. Now, grease, paint, dog urine, melted rubber, old chaw, etc. found in wheelweights before smelting is NASTY. Keep your gloves on, don't eat, drink, or smoke while castng, and wash up good afterwards. Get to casting so you can generate more questions for board members to answer, we are always recruiting.

I've been trying not to wear folks patience out WITH all the questions!

Temps are supposed to be pretty low this weekend, so I thought casting in the garage without any heat (room heat) it might be difficult keeping things hot enough. I'm told mold temperature is important too maintain, and if the garage is right at the freezing mark that might be problematic. I was going to rig up some 4 or 6 inch venting with a fan drawing the fumes out a basement window. I just haven't bought the materials from the hardware store and rigged it all up yet.

Excellent information and advice, thanks for sharing that.

Do you cast when the temperature around you are close to the freezing mark? If it's not a waste of time, then I'd give it a try...