Titan ReloadingReloading EverythingLee PrecisionWideners
RepackboxInline FabricationSnyders JerkyLoad Data
RotoMetals2 MidSouth Shooters Supply
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 25 of 25

Thread: J~B Weld question....

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master
    rockrat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    5,329
    Might be able to heat with a hair dryer, then use a piece of dry ice on the sight. Differential in temp might break it loose. Using the deal blow hammer might be the ticket

  2. #22
    Boolit Buddy Rockydog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Central WI
    Posts
    408
    I've got a buddy who farms with his 22 year old son. The kid can break anything. Tractors, haybines, planters, truck clutches. I'll send you his address. It might take a week or so of "normal use" but it'll come back in two pieces. Seriously, I wonder it some heat sink pasre applied to the action while you heat the sight might take it off without annealing the action or ruining the bluing. RD
    “A wise and frugal government, which shall leave men free to regulate their own pursuits of industry and improvement, and shall not take from the mouth of labor the bread it has earned - this is the sum of good government.”

    Thomas Jefferson – Author of the Declaration of Independence and 3rd President of the USA

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
    lwknight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Fort Worth, Texas where the west begins
    Posts
    3,418
    I agree that blasting the sight itself with a torch should break the JB before any significant heat gets to the reciever. I'm thinking a oxy-acy rig. The hotter the torch the faster you heat the sight and less time to transfer heat to the reciever.
    Sent from my PC with a keyboard and camera on it with internet too.
    Melting Stuff is FUN!
    Shooting stuff is even funner

    L W Knight

  4. #24
    In Remembrance
    montana_charlie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    West of Great Falls, Montana
    Posts
    8,414
    Q: How can I remove J-B Weld after it is fully cured?

    A: When fully cured, J-B Weld can only be removed by grinding or filing it off, or by directly heating the product above the 600 degree maximum temperature threshold.


    How about grinding it off?
    Actually, start with a cutoff wheel to remove the sight, then switch to grinding to get the epoxy off.

    CM
    Retired...TWICE. Now just raisin' cows and livin' on borrowed time.

  5. #25
    Boolit Buddy maglvr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    307
    "Maglver...I think I may well start with your suggestion, as it seems the most simple of all."

    It'll do the trick!
    The .357 Magnum......
    1935
    Major Douglas Wesson, using factory loads, which were a 158 gr. soft lead bullet, traveling 1515 fps, from an 8 3/4" barreled S&W, producing 812 ft. lbs of muzzle energy.
    Antelope - 200 yards (2 shots)
    Elk - 130 yards (1 shot)
    Moose - 100 yards (1 shot)
    Grizzly Bear - 135 yards (1 shot).

    It kind of makes one wonder, why today, it will bounce off anything bigger than a rabbit

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check