Winchester/Miroku 1886 Rebounding Hammer Fix Tutorial

[M-Tecs]

Not sure but I believe the OP closed the thread on the site.

[veeman]

He probably didn't pay the fee now needed for photobucket, so they blurred it. I guessing.

[ndcowboy]

I'm digging up an old thread here, but THANK YOU!
I brought home an 1886 yesterday from a gun show and had it go click, click, click when it should have been going bang, bang, bang. Fix was easy, but getting the hammer screw back in with everything lined up was tough. Thank goodness it is cold out and I had time.
Anyway, thanks again. Rifle shoots great now.

[prs]

This will again BTT this worthy thread. I replaced the hammer spring on my new Miroku Browning Arm Company "Winchester" 1892 with a stock Ruger Black Hawk revolver hammer spring trimmed to the match the lenght of the spring in my '92. Action feels great and trigger feels better, but I got 1 light stike failure to fire and 1 failure to feed out of 26 rounds. So, I will nix the rebounding hammer and maybe increase the half cock notch.

prs

[Vaughn]

Hi All,
I live in Australia so it was easier to get a Winchester rather than the Browning,
I removed the rebound feature
I ordered a new Browning Hammer and Trigger, I made up a new mainspring strut from Stainless steel and polished it and Yes it has a pin hole to hold the paper clip ,
I can confirm that the trigger is the same as the 92 trigger (with a 3mm pin hole)
I flattened out the trigger spring as outlined in various posts and honed it thinner and polished it. My Mainspring strut entirely replaces the original and sits within the existing original spring retaining feature. I altered the safety, as it will not function with the Browning hammer, just not possible. I am considering tig welding the tang up and re-bluing.

I honed the new trigger ever so lightly on a diamond wheel in the lathe with the trigger clamped in the toolpost
Using a new super bright Led torch and mag glasses I set the sear to the correct angle and lightly honed it just enough to ensure it was true.
I used the original hammer spring un-shortened . Trigger is crisp about 2 to 3 pound , would not want it any lighter
I brought a 458 Throating reamer and tickled the throat just enough so that a new 45/70 loaded with a Speer 405 FN will enter the chamber without hang up. I was using some old winchester Staynless primers and 1 in 30 misfired they are Very hard, so switched to Federal and 100 % reliability. all I have left now is to remove the firing pin polish off any burrs / clean out any old lube and reoil. I am surprised that given the number of complaints nobody has made a replacement firing pin. I will not worry about the pin apart from cleaning and polishing and reoiling at this stage.
I also had a new shotgun style replacement 1886 but stock blank sent out from USA. Because of the changes from leaf spring to coil spring, I had to inlay a piece of suitable timber but this is unseen with the tangs in place. It has a decelerator recoil pad in place
I would hate to fire this with full loads of Varget without the recoil pad at 1840 FPS 400 Gr Pill this load is quite punishing. Varget is the powder of choice for heavy loads as pressure is under 30 000 PSI
Sincerely Vaughn G

[indian joe]

[QUOTE=Vaughn;5048151]Hi All,
I live in Australia so it was easier to get a Winchester rather than the Browning,
I am surprised that given the number of complaints nobody has made a replacement firing pin. I will not worry about the pin apart from cleaning and polishing and reoiling at this stage.

Another Aussie here - I have a Chiappa 86 and a Browning model 71

The Browning is late 1990's make (half cock notch and no tang safety) it had the lawyer inspired rebounding firing pin.
I have converted it to solid
There were a couple of places advertising new made solid firing pins a while back - Winchester Bob I think and one other at least - around $30-$35 US money plus shipping. Some places will not ship parts downunder - have to go through Brownells or Midway Aussie dealers
The conversion was not so hard to do

[indian joe]

[QUOTE=ndcowboy;4809923]I'm digging up an old thread here, but THANK YOU!
I brought home an 1886 yesterday from a gun show and had it go click, click, click when it should have been going bang, bang, bang. Fix was easy, but getting the hammer screw back in with everything lined up was tough.

That hammer screw will always be stubborn unless you take the screw out of the lifter spring and that was a one sod of a thing in my Browning - needs a right angle screwdriver from memory (they should have used a hex head screw) -- tension from the lifter spring pushes stuff out of align enough that the hammer screw wont enter the threads

[prs]

I did nix the rebound feature, but did not mess with the half cock notch, yet. Several hundreds of rounds without any failures. I am still undecided about replacing the safety with a blank of silver or pewter or modifying the half cock notch.

Vaughn, reads like you have done a fine job. If you do weld and blue give us a look.

prs

[W.R.Buchanan]

Do make sure that your half cock actually works after doing this. On Marlin 39AS's the half cock notch is not angled right to act as a safety and if you pull the trigger it will allow the hammer to drop.

I did my gun that way because the Rebounding Hammer went "Boing" everytime I pulled the trigger and drove me nutz. The hammer would drop if you pulled the trigger when on the half cock notch. Had to put a new stock hammer strut back in it before I sold the gun. So the "boing" was back.

These guns had the push button hammer block safety, so I guess they figured they didn't need the half cock safety. I really don't see why they felt it necessary to change the hammer as it would have been fine to have both safeties.

Don't know if yours work that way.

Randy

[prs]

Randy, my Miroku '92 is just as you described and after the mod the half cock will fail if the trigger is pulled very firmly. For now, I am going to restore the original function with new parts that I purchased. I intend to keep the rifle and I will work with the spring strength to assure reliable function at the sacrifice of somewhat heavier tribber pull. I am backing away from modifying the half cock notch for now.

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