Winchester/Miroku 1886 Rebounding Hammer Fix Tutorial

[bigted]

if ... when you have the mainspring strut out clipping the offending spur off ... why not just use the cutoff wheel on the dremel to widen and deepen the half notch in the hammer to a safe notch that can NOT be overcome with a good hard trigger squeeze. then it is as safe as any lever in the world and like the many hundreds of thousands built before all this lawyer modified lever actions came into being fighting a litigious public.

impressed with that word huh ... just had the flu and not back in me right mind yet.

[hpdrifter]

Good pictoral. Hope you don't mind a little constructive criticism.

You went to great detail on the tang screw, showing it goes all the way thru; picture included. I assume(!!!) this was for people that might not be real familiar with the Winchester. So, when you described or said, you might want to capture(?) the strut, why not say how? Some folks may not known what that little hole in the rear of the strut is for. Tell them to stick a pin in that hole.

[Loudenboomer]

The picture shows a paper clip. That's all it takes.

[JeffWarner]

Anyone have a copy of the original 1892 hammer/trigger mods by SAA Jim? While the hammer strut cutting instructions are around the internet, another old form post (shooter.com) talks about modification to the two piece trigger/sear to fuse them into a single piece to get around the one lawyer added item and offer a less gritty trigger pull. The instructions are pretty vague and the thread participants are long gone. The same concept should apply to the 1886 and might still be around in another form. Thanks

I used some of the info I got from an article on the Winchester/Miroku 1892 hammer and trigger mods by SAAJim (that also works for the modern Miroku '86's http://web.tampabay.rr.com/jimstags/win1892/index.htm and from other members on the www.leverguns.com board about modifying the rebounding hammer on the Winchester/Miroku 1886's. Also from the thread on Winchester/Miroku 1886 misfires http://leverguns.sixgunner.com/topic...55&whichpage=1 I have been getting misfires from light primer strikes and it was time to castrate the rebounding hammer and fix the terrible trigger pull. This fix does wonders for the action and makes it run much smoother. It is always easier for me to see pictures or watch something being done than just reading about it. This is why I have done this tutorial. Hopefully this will help some of you Miroku 86 owners out.

[jstanfield103]

OK, hate to resurrect this thread again. But I do have a question.
Once the rebounding hammer is fixed in the 1892, will the safety on the tang still work as designed too? Will you have to pull the hammer back just a tad to engage it or will it be like it was from the factory as far as the safety is concerned ?

Thanks, I want to remove the rebounding hammer but still like the safety since there will be no half cock. Don't want to spend the money on the Browning hammer and trigger.

[jstanfield103]

OK, answered my own question. I took my 1892 apart and removed the leg for the rebounding hammer (thanks for the write up) works great. But tang safety does still work, just works a little different. If the hammer is down on the firing pin and you place the safety on. It does go on safe but the hammer remains against the firing pin and can not be cocked. If on the half cock or full cock and the safety is placed in the safe position it will allow the hammer to fall but the hammer does not contact the firing pin. If you put the hammer in half cock with the safety left in the fire position and the trigger is pulled the rifle will fire from the half cock position.

I really like the rebound hammer done away with and that the safety still works. Just have to make sure that it is at least on half cock when it is placed in safe for the rifle to be safe and not able to fire.

[indian joe]

OK, answered my own question. I took my 1892 apart and removed the leg for the rebounding hammer (thanks for the write up) works great. But tang safety does still work, just works a little different. If the hammer is down on the firing pin and you place the safety on. It does go on safe but the hammer remains against the firing pin and can not be cocked. If on the half cock or full cock and the safety is placed in the safe position it will allow the hammer to fall but the hammer does not contact the firing pin. If you put the hammer in half cock with the safety left in the fire position and the trigger is pulled the rifle will fire from the half cock position.

I really like the rebound hammer done away with and that the safety still works. Just have to make sure that it is at least on half cock when it is placed in safe for the rifle to be safe and not able to fire.

FWIW
I have a Browning (Miruko) Model 71 from the original run they made late 1980's (?) They are different than what was shown in this thread - coil spring yes, rebound hammer strut no, half cock notch yes, --- the rebound feature was built into the bolt with a three piece firing pin and some other bits - mine suffered light strike = failure to fire and was altered.
(just in case someone thinks - like I did - that this excellent tutorial applies to the 71 clone - it dont - to mine anyway)

[jstanfield103]

indian joe,
Thanks for the comment. So it maybe just the Winchester Miroku models this works on.

[indian joe]

indian joe,
Thanks for the comment. So it maybe just the Winchester Miroku models this works on.

You are probably right I think
Miroku/Browning made a run of 1886's before the model 71 (that would be in the mid 1980's) - I have not seen the innards of one of those 1886's but its likely they are not the same as the new ones (Winchester branded) .
I just bought a Chiappa 1886 and they are a copy of the original Winchester internally.

[M-Tecs]

You are probably right I think
Miroku/Browning made a run of 1886's before the model 71 (that would be in the mid 1980's) - I have not seen the innards of one of those 1886's but its likely they are not the same as the new ones (Winchester branded) .
I just bought a Chiappa 1886 and they are a copy of the original Winchester internally.

I have a Browning 1886 rifle and a saddle ring carbine. Never had any issues so I never took them apart. I have no idea how close to original they are. I picked up the saddle ring cheap due to some deep stock scratches. Just picked up a blank that I plan on using to replace them. When I do I will do a complete teardown. Hopefully this summer.

[WehrmannsGeweher]

Simple fix:
Sell it
Buy a Browning

[jstanfield103]

No way, The only problem I had with it was the rebounding hammer. It really was not a problem as of yet. Just wanted to head it off before it ever did cause a problem. One thing I will say is that the Browning and Winchesters are made better than the post 1964 Winchesters were.

[hylander]

So I just finished doing the rebound delete, Not impressed.
Does not really act any different, other than not bouncing back.
Also took a coil out of the main spring, polished the sear and hammer, trigger is still #5.25
So basically I gain nothing.
There is two hours of my life I wish I wish I had back

[jstanfield103]

Hylander,
Sorry to hear that. Mine felt better to me but I really don't have anything to measure it with. I just wanted the rebounding hammer deleted to prevent light strikes, Which I had not had a problem with before I did the delete, just a preventive measure.

[hylander]

Hylander,
Sorry to hear that. Mine felt better to me but I really don't have anything to measure it with. I just wanted the rebounding hammer deleted to prevent light strikes, Which I had not had a problem with before I did the delete, just a preventive measure.

Yep, I had no issues with it the way it was.
I was just hoping the trigger pull would lighten up, however the delete made no difference at all.
Also polished the hammer engagement, but that did nothing as well
I did notice that the trigger return spring is very heavy though, however I have not found any fix for that yet.
There are no replacement springs for this rifle that I can find.
I doubt it but wonder if Browning would send me a factory replacement trigger spring and hammer strut, then I would try to modify.
the originals

[missionary5155]

Hylander
Did you check the tension on the trigger spring ? If you have a strong trigger spring cutting just the hammer spring coil will not help you much.

Hold the hammer back with your thumb and measure the trigger spring pull all by itself. Should be about 3 pounds all by itself if you are looking for a 3.5 # pull.
We have at least 5 original 1892's and they all had at least a 5# trigger. Those are easily adjusted just by cleaning and loosening the screw that holds the trigger spring in contact with the trigger.

Mike in Peru

[hylander]

Hylander
Did you check the tension on the trigger spring ? If you have a strong trigger spring cutting just the hammer spring coil will not help you much.

Hold the hammer back with your thumb and measure the trigger spring pull all by itself. Should be about 3 pounds all by itself if you are looking for a 3.5 # pull.
We have at least 5 original 1892's and they all had at least a 5# trigger. Those are easily adjusted just by cleaning and loosening the screw that holds the trigger spring in contact with the trigger.

Mike in Peru

Yes, trigger spring measures #3.
However on the Miroku 92's the trigger spring is also the strut support that holds the hammer strut.
No way to adjust aside from heat and bend the end that contacts the trigger.
I did just the hammer strut, spring and strut support.
I will try to modify the new strut support.

[FergusonTO35]

I have a pawn shop rescue 94 AE that is coming along nicely but suffers from occasional light strikes. Already disassembled, cleaned, and lubed the action. Overall the rifle doesn't look like it has been fired much. Anybody tried shortening the lower legs of the hammer strut on the 94? It is slightly different than the others as it has two rebound legs on the strut side by side.

[texasloader]

My 1886 has some slack in the bolt, I think the grooves in the receiver are worn. I was thinking of shimming it with some thin brass stock. Any thoughts?

[mart]

I know I saw this a few months ago when I got my Miroku 1886 and the pictures were clear. Now they are blurry with a photo bucket watermark over them. What does a fellow have to do to see them clearly again. I'd like to do this conversion but would like to have the pictures for a reference. I tried turning off my ad blocker but that didn't help. Any thoughts guys. Thanks.