Bevel base design question

[wcp4570]

This question is for all that use any bevel base design boolit. All my molds are either plain base or GC so I have never cast or lubed a bevel base boolit. Casting would not be a problem but lubing is where I see a potential problem or the need for additional work cleaning off lube from the bevel area prior to loading. I use a Lyman 450 for lubing.

Here's the question, how do you deal with lubing this boolit design, or does it even cause my perceived problem?

wcp

[gray wolf]

Yes it does cause the problem you talk about, there are some fixes but I don't think any of them truly work. I will not say never because some folks will tell you of there success.
For myself,
I would remove the bevel base from the mold.
Not get a mold with a bevel base.
Tumble lube with 45/45/10
Try it and then do the above.
It may also depend on the bullet and the lube ring configuration,
the ability to plug holes in your sizer die. using a small foam pad under the bullet,
being extra careful with the lube pressure and so on.

[Mohavedog]

I am in agreement with you, wcp. But I think a more detrimental issue would be the bevel base allowing gas cutting to start up the base of the boolit. May not be too evident until you reach hotter loadings. I could be wrong on this as there must be a valid reason to bb that overrides the possible negatives, such as ballistics. Mohavedog

[JRHYS]

WCP, I cast and lube/size bevel base bullets every week and have never had a problem with a Lyman 450 lubricator/sizer. I cast bullets with Magma Engineering molds that have one lube groove. On my sizer, I flatten out (4) #5 lead shot and plug the top 4 holes. Just tap lead in, file or sand off and you are putting lube in the lube groove. Good Luck. Jerry

[mtgrs737]

I have used a disc of foam cut from a supermarket meat package to keep lube out of the bevel base area. Just use a deprimed cartridge case as a punch to cut the proper sized disc out of the foam tray, a nail thru the primer flash hole will push the disc out of the case mouth. Insert the foam disc into the top of the sizing die and you are good to go. The foam disc will wear out but new ones are easy to make and free!

[wcp4570]

I was looking at a group buy 9mm made by NOE that was bevel based but would rather have a plain base boolit. I don't have the proper equipment to remove the bevel so I could see me making a mess of a good mold. I didn't think about gas cutting and think you might be right, it could cause problems. I've shot many pounds of plain base boolits without any problem and think I will just wait for a good pb design to show up. I have a couple double cavity molds and like the design allot but they are slow and I would like to have a 4 or 6 cavity to increase production. Thanks for the inputs.

wcp

[casterofboolits]

The answer to lube/sizing a bevel base boolit is a Star lube/sizor. Pricey, but really nice to use and no lube on the bevel.

The Star comes into it's own if you're doing a couple thousand rouinds a month for IPSC or IDPA.

[That'll Do]

I believe there are a few members here that can make you a custom insert for the sizing die on your Lyman 450. Instead of the flat-faced punch inside the die, the custom one matches the bevel on the bullet, preventing the lube from going where it doesn't belong.

[williamwaco]

I have used bevel base bullets in the past with no real problems. I sized them with a Lyman 45. I actually do not even remember the lube being a problem.

As of about 6 months ago I discovered Lee 6 cavity molds. The absolute most accurate bullet I have ever fired in a .357 magnum is the Lee 358-158 SWC bevel base tumbled with LLA.

There is no accuracy disadvantage to bevel base bullets.

[462]

I have one bevel base mould, a Lee 358-158 RF six-banger. It takes but a second to wipe off the lube, and have not experienced leading due to gas cutting.

[Blammer]

I have two bevel base boolits I cast.

One is 45 cal and the other 9mm.

I have a lyman 450. It's a royal PITA to lube them boolits because the lube always gets in the bevel base area.

I had a machinist friend of mine make me an I pin for my sizing die that fits the bevel base perfectly for the boolits. Now no 'butt wiping' after getting lubed in the sizer.

as far as the NOE 9mm GB. I chose to run the BB version first, then we will run the plain base version. So far not many people have expressed interest in the 9mm plain base version.

[wcp4570]

Blammer
What you said about being a royal PITA is what I'm worried about. I like the boolit design and weight but not excited about the bevel base. It looks similar to the group buy (6 cavity Lee) that was put together by Makemine10mm that he called a slippery 9mm. I delayed and missed out on that one. What will be the weight on a PB with flat point design of this boolit be? I see different results with bb designs, thanks everyone for your replies.

wcp

[MikeS]

If a bevel based boolit is sized correctly for your bore, it shouldn't lead any more or less than a plain based boolit. I have several moulds for bevel based boolits, and I prefer the BB to a PB. When sizing them in a Lyman 45 lubesizer I do get a small amount of lube in the bevel, but it's never really been a problem for me. One nice thing about BB boolits is that the case mouths don't need as large a bell to seat them, so the brass gets worked less, so in theory should last longer.

[303Guy]

I'm interested in this one because I make my molds with a bevel base for paper patching with the idea that it prevents base distortion on entering the rifling. It also forms a place for the patch base edge to seat. Anyway, what is the problem of lube getting into the bevel and even onto the boolit base? (I don't use a lot of lube but when I do it is of a nature that cannot contaminate the powder).

[Char-Gar]

The opinions on BB bullets and molds ranges on and on and on. I would would not pay money for a BB mold. If somebody gave me one, I would say "Thank You" and pass it one to somebody who wanted it. I don't.

[WHITETAIL]

I Too don't use a BB boolit.
For me I like the flat base
and have good luck with them.

[Wally]

I have one bevel base mould, a Lee 358-158 RF six-banger. It takes but a second to wipe off the lube, and have not experienced leading due to gas cutting.

Great bullet..I have one as well and found that I can seat a Gas Check on it....I make my own out of aluminum...

[462]

Yep, the ability for that boolit to accept a gas check increases its overall usefulness.

[HammerMTB]

I have a few things to say about BB boolits:
I had a 6-cav Lee 175TCBB mold. Yes, lube in the BB area was a PITA. I did not try or know of the meat-packing foam to try at the time, so I decided to remove the BB. I managed, but it was quite a trial to get done without a lathe. Now I have a PB mold. Next problem was loading. The same boolit and mold that had worked so well together now was a PITA to load. It took significant extra bell-mouthing to load, shortening case life. Did I come out ahead? I think not. As to leading, it wasn't a problem when it was BB, and making it PB didn't change that, and those loads were in 40S&W and 10MM. Surely enough pressure to gas cut if it were going to occur. It did not, and I recovered quite a few boolits.
A few months ago I got the .45 version of the same boolit. It sure loads easier with the BB. I am NOT going to remove that one.
I am TLing those with 45/45/10, but if I decide to lube in the Lyman 450, I will get me some foam to use as a lube stopper.
I wish I could put the BB back on my .40 mold.....

[chboats]

I used to shoot a lot of 45 ACP with BB boolits. Never cleaned the bases never had a problem. Messy to handle but that was all. Also when shooting rifle GC boolits without checks, why do the experts, such as C.E. (Ed)Harris, recommend leaving the lube on the GC shank?

Carl