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Thread: casting furnaces

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold loader's Avatar
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    casting furnaces

    I was looking at a Lee 110 and 220 drop furnaces. They both only rise to 600 degrees. It's been said that between 700 and 800 is ideal. What say you? I don't mind the wait time, although I thought 220 would be quicker. I would also think that 220 would get hotter.

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master
    Mk42gunner's Avatar
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    loader,

    Welcome aboard.

    The Lee melting pots will get to considerably over 600 degrees. I had my 4-20 to 800 degrees yesterday while casting some hollowpoints, that is a lot hotter than I normally run it.

    Where are you located? The 110 volt ones are normally for North American usage, they can be run on normal household current. The 220 volt ones are normally meant to be used overseas, where the normal voltage is 220. You can use 220 in the states, but will have to have a special circuit ran.

    RObert

  3. #3
    Boolit Mold loader's Avatar
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    Thanks Robert.... I live in NJ.

    Ok.. so they run hotter than advertised. Great. The 110v it is. Thanks.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master RKJ's Avatar
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    loader, I don't know what temp my Lee Pro 4 20 Lb 110 Volt gets to but it melts everything and keeps it well melted. I was just looking at Midway and they have them for $64.99. I know a lot of folks speak ill of Lee furnaces due to them leaking but I like mine. I just put a SS condiment cup (97 cents for 4 at Walmart) to catch the leaks and keep on.

  5. #5
    Boolit Mold loader's Avatar
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    The Pot leaks?

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy Carolina Cast Bullets's Avatar
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    Yep, they leak but the SS condiment cup works nicely

    Jerry
    Carolina Cast Bullets
    Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional ! ! !

  7. #7
    Boolit Mold loader's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carolina Cast Bullets View Post
    Yep, they leak but the SS condiment cup works nicely

    Jerry
    Carolina Cast Bullets
    Guess you get what you pay for. Sounds like Lee needs to get some feedback.

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master
    Mk42gunner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by loader View Post
    The Pot leaks?
    It is more of a drip than a leak. I lapped the valve and stem of my 4-20 with 800 grit compund before I ever plugged it in. Mine drips a little bit, but no deluges. When I am using a ladle, the drips will build up to the spout and self limit.

    For the difference in cost between the Lee and a Lyman or RCBS, I can put up with the occasional drip.

    RObert

  9. #9
    Boolit Mold loader's Avatar
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    I hear ya... not bad for the price.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    So what folks didn't mention about the leak in the lee bottom pour pro pot, when I was reading the reviews at midway before ordering, is that every now and then the solidifying drips under the spout form a sharp enough cup that they launch droplets of molten lead out a surprising distance. I find catching this before getting bitten by a stray drop very very irritating.

    +1 on the metal cup. Without the steep walls I find I get bitten occasionally.

  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master
    Mk42gunner's Avatar
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    Mine hasn't shot splatters at me, yet. It probably will next time I use it now. My drips end up about the size of a dime when they fall all the way to the aluminum shelf, if they start building offcenter I just move the stack of drip art.

    If the drip art builds up too much while bottom pouring, I just put it back in the pot like sprues. Just another reason to wear gloves.

    Robert

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mk42gunner View Post
    Mine hasn't shot splatters at me, yet. It probably will next time I use it now. My drips end up about the size of a dime when they fall all the way to the aluminum shelf, if they start building offcenter I just move the stack of drip art.

    If the drip art builds up too much while bottom pouring, I just put it back in the pot like sprues. Just another reason to wear gloves.

    Robert
    Hm. Mine has launched about #9 size drips into my collar or at my face. A lower trajectory is more common, but not the rule.

    Sometimes the drips build harmlessly, sometimes a steeper cup is formed that'll launch drops. Lot of factors, alloy, melt temp, drip rate... it was happening to me with regularity last night. I'm about po'ed enough to take the thing apart and try lapping it.

  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master



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    There is a sound, logical reason they are called . . . Dripomatic.

    Rick
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  14. #14
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrB View Post
    Hm. Mine has launched about #9 size drips into my collar or at my face. A lower trajectory is more common, but not the rule.

    Sometimes the drips build harmlessly, sometimes a steeper cup is formed that'll launch drops. Lot of factors, alloy, melt temp, drip rate... it was happening to me with regularity last night. I'm about po'ed enough to take the thing apart and try lapping it.
    I would definately be lapping that valve and seat, hot #9 shot can do some damage. Fortunately the 4-20 is easy to lap since the rod is straight, I lapped mine until I had what looked like a good mating surface, but I don't have any extra weight on the handle either.

    Quote Originally Posted by cbrick View Post
    There is a sound, logical reason they are called . . . Dripomatic.

    Rick
    You are so right on that Rick, I think I would actually prefer a dipper pot, but the bottom pour gives more options. It is a trade off of occasional drips versus convenience.

    I still like the electric pot better than using a Coleman stove though. If I ever win the lottery I will buy a Waage soldering pot and be done with it.

    Robert

  15. #15
    Boolit Master jmsj's Avatar
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    loader,
    A lot of guys find the Lee pot intolerable but I like the two I have. As long as I keep my pot and alloy clean they don't seem to leak very much if at all. If I keep everything clean, if it does drip a small twist with a screwdriver on the valve rod seems to make it stop. I do keep a Lee ingot mold under the spout to catch any drips. For what a RCBS cost I could buy 5 Lee 4-20's
    Good luck, jmsj

  16. #16
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    Like most Lee products if your mindset allows you to look at their stuff as kits that will need finishing off to work properly and continuous fettling to keep working and you are prepared to keep doing these chores then the Lee stuff can be good value for money.

    However if you want something to work out of the box as advertised with the minimum of fettling then you will need to look elsewhere.

    I'm running two RCBS promelts one bought new and one bought second hand. A lot more dosh than the Lee but I have pots that work as advertised with minimum maintenance needs and better ergonomics and that suits me.

    My last 20lb Lee dripomatic was passed on last year and it has had been retired by its current owner for the same reasons I passed it on.

    You pays your money and you take your choice.

    No doubt about it the Lee is cheap.

    Hope the pot GB here will come off as its looking good, I'll be in for one of them if it happens.


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  17. #17
    Boolit Master



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    My second Lee 4-20 is having some serious issues now. The drop rod to seal the exit hole at the bottom has come adrift and I will be only using this one as a pre melting pot and I will run the hot alloy thru a steel channel down to the new pot.

    I finally gave up and spring the $300 (Midway Special with a $50 rebate) plus shipping for a Pro-Melt RCBS Casting Furnace.

    I am doing so much casting recently that I really need a better furnace. I have little confidence in the Lee 4-20's as the whole alloy pouring procedure is a mess. It is hard to regulate, keep clean and it is always susceptible to major leaking so you cannot leave the pot alone in a room. It is a nasy suprise to find a major volocano cone under your pot and alloy all over the place.

    I am getting heavily involved in BPCR shooting and the casting part is really important. Imperfect boolits do not get the job done after 400 yds. The electronic scale is very important to cull out the boolits with internal voids and the like. A well cast boolit is only the beginning of attaining good accuracy but it is a very important part and can be well controlled with decent equipment.
    Pax Nobiscum Dan (Crash) Corrigan

    Currently casting, reloading and shooting: 223 Rem, 6.5x55 Sweede, 30 Carbine, 30-06 Springfield, 30-30 WCF, 303 Brit., 7.62x39, 7.92x57 Mauser, .32 Long, 32 H&R Mag, 327 Fed Mag, 380 ACP. 9x19, 38 Spcl, 357 Mag, 38-55 Win, 41 Mag, 44 Spcl., 44 Mag, 45 Colt, 45 ACP, 454 Casull, 457 RB for ROA and 50-90 Sharps. Shooting .22 LR & 12 Gauge seldom and buying ammo for same.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
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    A group buy, huh? I'll look into that...

    I wonder about the geometry of the mating surfaces. All lapping does is get more of a mated/concentric surface. Seems like there should be a more optimal geometry. How do the drip less pots valve surfaces mate that makes them more reliable?

  19. #19
    Boolit Buddy
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    I have two Lee 110v pots. The don't leak, they drip a little. As mentioned, the Stainless Steel condiment cups sold at Walmart in the pots and pan section work good to catch the drips.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master

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    What I don't understand is if somebody is going to only ladle cast, why would they buy a Lee 4-20 bottom pour pot? Lee also makes a 20lb pot specifically for ladle casting which doesn't leak, and is cheaper. With the price of the Lee pots, it's easy to have more than one pot, so even if you do both, you can have one for each style of casting! I ladle cast pure lead for ML boolits, and I bottom pour everything else. I have 2 pots, a Lee 4-20 and a Lyman 10# Big Dipper pot. Between the 2 of them I have less invested than a single RCBS pot!
    - MikeS

    Want to checkout my feedback? It's here:
    http://www.castboolits.gunloads.com/...d.php?t=136410

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check