I am going to dura coat 2 rifles and a 1911, I have the dura coat, but no reducer, I just can't afford to get any right now, will lacquer thinner work? thanks guys
I am going to dura coat 2 rifles and a 1911, I have the dura coat, but no reducer, I just can't afford to get any right now, will lacquer thinner work? thanks guys
I would contact these people and ask. http://www.houtsenterprises.net/index.html
If one sits in thundering quiet the soul dies slow instead of yell to the heavens for all to hear and behold the righteous and upstanding and ones of which should be held with tales of woe. By C.A.S. <--- Thats Me lol.
not much point in that, the instructions say to only use their reducer, nothing else will work, I don't beleive that, one way to find out. wanted to see what others used.. Ed
Well I think it is cheaper from the people at the link I gave. And they have great service. But I also think it might benefit you to wait till you can get the correct reducer for the job at hand.
If one sits in thundering quiet the soul dies slow instead of yell to the heavens for all to hear and behold the righteous and upstanding and ones of which should be held with tales of woe. By C.A.S. <--- Thats Me lol.
thats the problem, cost, I googled thining duracoat, found a thread on it, guy said he used lacquer thinner with no problem. I do have a can of lacquer thinner.the only reason I need to thin it is because I will be using a air brush.
I am told that Duracoat and Sherwin-Williams Polane are one and the same - just different packaging and pricing. I'd check with my local SW paint dealer and see what he recommends.
This topic gets rehashed repeatedly on another forum that I belong to. One member took a sample of DC to the SW paint dealer and they matched it with Polane; mixed the colors he wanted and fixed him up with paint and reducer for 25% the cost of DC.
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CALL them and ask for the MSDS Safety sheet to be mailed or Emailed to you , for the reducer
Then you will know most of what is in it
Not the percentages
But you can compare it to a lacquer thinner MSDS safety sheet ( should be able to fine it on line )
John
And I carry a LOADED Hell CatYea, thou I walk through the valley of the shadow of death, I will fear no evil; for thou art with me; Thy rod and thy staff, they comfort me.
I have been using Dura coat for a number of years. They do not recommend reducing their paint. I have never had to thin it to use in my airbrushes.
It is high recommend that the piece being sprayed is CLEANED. Way Cleaqn!
For my 45's I spray with the carb cleaners ( Duracoat cleaner is good but way to expensive) and boil the frame and slide. YES in water. It removes all traces of oil, grease, etc.
Becareful of the 'flash-rust' that will occurr when the hot pieces are removed. I take an air hose to it immediately and get the water off. Most of it will evaporate but some of may remain on the pieces. Get it dry.
I follow with a sand blast of 220grit, especially on the sharp edges. It helps to grab the Duracoat. Then air hose the residue off (Don't touch it anymore!)
I also have found that pre-heating the frame and slide with a heat gun as I paint helps to flash-dry the duracoat.
It's expensive stuff, but for those of use who don't have access to the factory stuff this is GOOD stuff. And touch up is easy.
Acetone is better, LQ. works in a pinch, I use it loosen up the hardener if it gets a little old, no wear or application issues.
As stated, thinning isn't usually required, unless there is an issue with the paint or hardener as stated above........
Last edited by jerry_from_ct; 06-23-2011 at 05:43 PM.
I just talked to a friend and he told me that Dura Coat is now available in spray cans and does not need baking and is self lubricating. Anybody know if this is true?
Not sure but take a look around here. http://www.houtsenterprises.net/index.html
If one sits in thundering quiet the soul dies slow instead of yell to the heavens for all to hear and behold the righteous and upstanding and ones of which should be held with tales of woe. By C.A.S. <--- Thats Me lol.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |