Dura Coat

[edsmith]

I am going to dura coat 2 rifles and a 1911, I have the dura coat, but no reducer, I just can't afford to get any right now, will lacquer thinner work? thanks guys

[JesterGrin_1]

I would contact these people and ask. http://www.houtsenterprises.net/index.html

[edsmith]

not much point in that, the instructions say to only use their reducer, nothing else will work, I don't beleive that, one way to find out. wanted to see what others used.. Ed

[JesterGrin_1]

Well I think it is cheaper from the people at the link I gave. And they have great service. But I also think it might benefit you to wait till you can get the correct reducer for the job at hand.

[edsmith]

thats the problem, cost, I googled thining duracoat, found a thread on it, guy said he used lacquer thinner with no problem. I do have a can of lacquer thinner.the only reason I need to thin it is because I will be using a air brush.

[nicholst55]

I am told that Duracoat and Sherwin-Williams Polane are one and the same - just different packaging and pricing. I'd check with my local SW paint dealer and see what he recommends.

This topic gets rehashed repeatedly on another forum that I belong to. One member took a sample of DC to the SW paint dealer and they matched it with Polane; mixed the colors he wanted and fixed him up with paint and reducer for 25% the cost of DC.

[Johnch]

CALL them and ask for the MSDS Safety sheet to be mailed or Emailed to you , for the reducer

Then you will know most of what is in it
Not the percentages
But you can compare it to a lacquer thinner MSDS safety sheet ( should be able to fine it on line )

John

[hhfurn]

thats the problem, cost, I googled thining duracoat, found a thread on it, guy said he used lacquer thinner with no problem. I do have a can of lacquer thinner.the only reason I need to thin it is because I will be using a air brush.

I have been using Dura coat for a number of years. They do not recommend reducing their paint. I have never had to thin it to use in my airbrushes.
It is high recommend that the piece being sprayed is CLEANED. Way Cleaqn!
For my 45's I spray with the carb cleaners ( Duracoat cleaner is good but way to expensive) and boil the frame and slide. YES in water. It removes all traces of oil, grease, etc.
Becareful of the 'flash-rust' that will occurr when the hot pieces are removed. I take an air hose to it immediately and get the water off. Most of it will evaporate but some of may remain on the pieces. Get it dry.
I follow with a sand blast of 220grit, especially on the sharp edges. It helps to grab the Duracoat. Then air hose the residue off (Don't touch it anymore!)
I also have found that pre-heating the frame and slide with a heat gun as I paint helps to flash-dry the duracoat.
It's expensive stuff, but for those of use who don't have access to the factory stuff this is GOOD stuff. And touch up is easy.

[jerry_from_ct]

Acetone is better, LQ. works in a pinch, I use it loosen up the hardener if it gets a little old, no wear or application issues.

As stated, thinning isn't usually required, unless there is an issue with the paint or hardener as stated above........

[deltaenterprizes]

I just talked to a friend and he told me that Dura Coat is now available in spray cans and does not need baking and is self lubricating. Anybody know if this is true?

[JesterGrin_1]

Not sure but take a look around here. http://www.houtsenterprises.net/index.html