Moving the hole - LCC - more leverage

[a.squibload]

I disassembled the linkage, bolted the two links together to make sure the holes
are located the same, then realized I don't have a big enough drill bit.
The pin/bolt measures 0.5585", my biggest bit is ½".
Suppose I can pound the pin into a ½" hole?

I could drill the new holes ½", and drill the hanging links the same, then get a ½" pin
(I like Aneat's setup),
but is there enough meat on the hanging links to support that bigger hole?
Returning to the standard hole position would leave me with the ½" pin
in a hole that's .05" or .06" too large, is this a big deal?

Am I over-thinking this?

Guess I could make new hanging links out of steel but wanted to do this as easy (and cheap) as possible.

So far the LCC is working fine but I went to swage some more 44s and realized
the palm of my hand was still sore from swaging earlier in the day.
Maybe I just need to drill a hole in a baseball?

[BT Sniper]

Yep a baseball or large hard rubber ball is much softer on the hand then that hard wood Lee uses.

I'll have to look into your post a bit more closly. I too had to go get the bigger drill bit but I think it may work with a smaller 1/2" one. I'll have to go out in the shop to look.

BT

[gjemba]

Here is what I did. If you try to drive the oversize pin thru the holes, you will probably ruin everything and make it unusable if you want to convert back. I hope both pictures attached.

Gary

[BT Sniper]

YEP! That looks about perfect. Doubled the leverage and halved the stroke distance. We don't need 4" worth of travel to make our bullets anyways. I think mine is nearly exactly the same. Looks like a 1/2" bolt or is it the same shoulder bolt you used?

Swage On!

BT

[Jailer]

gjemba, does the ram bottom out at the same place as it does in the factory positions? Also if you would please share some measurements. Hole size, distance from factory holes on both pieces would be great.

I've got some new linkages pieces that a buddy made for me but I don't have them installed yet.

[BT Sniper]

Yes you can make it where the ram "tops" out at the same place but it will not return to the same starting postion as before. Really isn't a problem, actually works well IMOP.

BT

[a.squibload]

Gary, that looks good, moved up a little to make up for the loss of ram "height".
I imagine if the pin doesn't fit in my new ½" holes I could find a way to ream them,
or buy a bigger bit (hard to get me to spend money, Scottish genes I guess).

Same as Jailer, I'm wondering if the ram still gets low enough to drive the pins in
toward the middle. Looks like it does.

Think I'll put some axle grease on the parts when I reassemble.
Going to the mountains tomorrow if I can get up, will post results.

Thanks again!

[BT Sniper]

"Same as Jailer, I'm wondering if the ram still gets low enough to drive the pins in
toward the middle. Looks like it does."

Ahh! I forgot about that little point! With this conversion, atleast on mine the ram does not drop low enough to allow us to drive out (or in towards the middle) the pins that hold the linkages in place. You better figure a way to remove the bolt that holds everything in place, as in don't use the stock shoulder bolt for the new holes but possibly a 1/2 or 5/8" bolt that can be easily removed same as Aneats cotter pin bolt.

BT

[a.squibload]

Well, I could break down and get the Harbor Fright long punch set.
The big pin is looking better now.
Would be nice to easily switch back to reloading mode, but I work up brass a stage at a time
so it's not necessary to have two presses for reloading.

I'll think on it, worst case is I mess it up and buy or make new parts!

Edit:
Well that didn't take long.
If I make the new holes in the hanging links like gjemba did, all the NEW holes could be ½".
I already have a pin with cotter to fit them.
Ram height / pin clearance won't be a factor as the new pin could be pulled for disassembly.
All the old holes would still fit the old shoulder bolt.
Would still have to punch out the 2 pins to re-assemble in original configuration
but the ram would be dropped out already.

IT MIGHT WORK!

[BT Sniper]

All sounds about right to me. Tell you what!.... it is a noticable difference in the operation of the press that is worth the little risk involved with driling a couple holes IMOP. The extra leverage and ability to adjust teh location of the handle really works well for the press when swaging bullets.

It is a hard steel and may take a bit of force to drill the holes though.

BT

[gjemba]

I used the original hardware but made some spacer/reducers due to the shoulder on the factory bolt. It has been 6 months or so since I made this so I am trying to remember why I needed to do that. I think it made assembly easire, but am not certain. I will gather my thoughts and get more pictures. Along with this, I made a new ram this is used for reducing jackets. I have a lot of .45 half jackets and assorted copper sleeves that I reduce for use at .357 jackets. I had some time on my hands and just started sticking metal in the lathe and mill to see what came out when i was done. I jsut made a 6 banger 44 core mold from a .30 cal Lee mold. I turned out great so I will post it to. All this playing in my shop keeps me from shooting though.

Gary

[gjemba]

OK, here is a pic of the parts and pieces. I made a bushing so I could take the thru bolt out from 1 side. This eliminates the need to drive out the pins in the body of the press when I want to change the leverage. THere is no leverage reason as to where I drilled the new holes. I just decided based on how much metal was left at the new location so I did not weaken the arms to make them unusable. When I want to change the lever point, I just need to remove the 1 nut with the bushing, slide it out and reinstall it in the other holes. Quick and easy.

In the background is the new ram for sizing down jackets. I use a hardened drill bushing for teh correct size and the new jacket falls out the side of the ram.

Hope this helps.

Gary

[a.squibload]

Nice work Gary.
So you drilled the original hole in one of the hanging links, and inserted a bushing?
I like that, might retrofit mine that way.
Would save banging those pins in and out if I ever want to change it back.

Here are pics of my feeble effort. I can feel the difference!
Still need to lube each round though.
I had a couple get stuck and it's still pretty hard to get 'em out!





I might have made the holes a little high in the hanging links, the second pic shows the ram
as low as it will go.
I could grind off some of the stops on the hanging links, but there's enough room
to insert a 44 boolit so it's good.
The linkages are a bit wobbly now (left to right), but the holes seem to be lined up OK (just dumb luck!).
OK, I measured and marked.
Might switch to a bolt and spacer to see if it tightens up, but probably not worth the extra effort.

Also thinking of adding another ¼" bolt, there's only one holding the auto ejector
to the shellholder thingy.

The link metal is strange stuff. After a while I found that less pressure on the drill press
makes the "chips" come out like dust, and makes a lot less heat.
This stuff might be intended to maximize tool life?

I still covet the fancy swage presses, but this is working pretty good!

[BT Sniper]

Makes quite the difference dosent it. Nice work, looks just right. I still think adding the leverage like this actually reduces teh amount of stress on the press, kind of like shifting into low gear to get up a steep hill.

What up with the chain? Does it get in the way?

Swage On!

BT

[a.squibload]

Makes quite the difference dosent it. Nice work, looks just right. I still think adding the leverage like this actually reduces teh amount of stress on the press, kind of like shifting into low gear to get up a steep hill.
What up with the chain? Does it get in the way?
Swage On!
BT

That's a leftover pin from a tow truck dolly, the chain makes it harder
to lose the fastener pin. Doesn't get in the way, just hangs there.

Still putting lots of force on the handle, but it is easier to swage
and to pull the boolit out of the die. Need to figure how to remove
the wood ball and install a bigger one, think they are glued on?
'Til then maybe I'll wear a thick glove!

[Jailer]

They are just an interference fit. A couple light taps at the base should knock it off.

[a.squibload]

Got invited to a Rockies game, I'll take my old glove, maybe get a knob for my handle.

Saw a pic of BT's "lower link extender" in another thread, looks pretty good!
I like the low gear reference, I'm in a 4-wheel-drive club, my Jeep has 4.88 diff gears
and a granny! Climbs better than my Blazer.

Here's a pic of my Blazer...