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Thread: Project - PID on Lee Pro 4 20 furnace

  1. #701
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by dragon813gt View Post
    The PID isn't going to cycle the SSR until the set temp is almost reached. So manual mode didn't speed anything up.
    Ditto on that. My boxes are equipped with SPDT switches so I "thought" I'd speed up the cycle. No bananas. Even after you've auto tuned the unit is going to go through it's cycles anyhow next time you use it. Think it's 3 on the Auber but haven't really paid any attention to how many on my Rex units. Takes about 20 minutes on my Lee 10# units to get up to temp just like Lee's said. With or without the PID.
    Mike

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  2. #702
    Boolit Buddy Phlier's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dragon813gt View Post
    The PID isn't going to cycle the SSR until the set temp is almost reached. So manual mode didn't speed anything up.
    I had the thermocouple in the pot, pressing against the bare floor and side of the pot while heating, and it shot the temp up so high the SSR was cycling, so I went to manual mode to keep it from doing so. Still need to get a good thermocouple mount rigged up.
    Last edited by Phlier; 12-14-2016 at 06:29 PM.
    "Things sure are a lot more like the way they are now than they used to be." --Yogi Berra

  3. #703
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    Phlier, I just finished up my new PID as well. This is just an idea for a thermocouple mount rig that is working great for me. I went to Home Depot and picked up a 12" X 5/16" length of threaded stock, and an L-shaped bifold door bottom bracket, a few 5/16" nuts/washers, and a 5/16" wingnut. I sawed the back off the bottom bracket (so that the L part of the bracket would not interfere with the wings on the wingnut) and drilled out the plastic section to fit the transition section on my thermocouple (I drilled just a few thousands smaller so I had to use a little force to push the thermocouple into the plastic). You can see how the threaded stock is secured to the base in the pics. (I wanted the mount to attach to the base instead of the pot to reduce as much as possible any heat transfer to the thermocouple. Probably not necessary since the sensor is in the tip, but Auberin also suggests only 3" submersion for the 6" thermocouple. So to avoid any issues I chose this approach.)

    It works great, allowing me to adjust the up/down and in/out (toward side or center of pot) so that I can position the thermocouple exactly. (Although in/out can out is also somewhat adjustable by swinging the assembly close to the edge of the pot or farther out). My only concern was how the plastic would hold up to the heat. At 850 degrees, it did not melt or change properties. (I apologize for the orientation of the pics, for some reason the software wants to rotate them horizontally)

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  4. #704
    Boolit Buddy Phlier's Avatar
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    Very well done, Flemdoug. Really appreciate you taking the time to write up the "how-to". That's exactly how I'd like mine.
    "Things sure are a lot more like the way they are now than they used to be." --Yogi Berra

  5. #705
    Boolit Bub
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    Thanks Phlier .... glad to help. I hope you're enjoying the PID. I made a nice discovery with mine...that my old thermometer was off by 60 degrees (too low). I did the ice bath, rolling water test and the PID was right on. So to be sure I set the PID to 605 (20:1 alloy) to see if the lead would melt (it did.) At that temp, the thermometer was reading 540. This is an amazing new addition to my casting setup

  6. #706
    Boolit Mold
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    Just made mine for $18au .... so 12 bucks merican.
    Got pid, 40a ssr, heatsink and TC in the kit. All from sleezebay. Delivered free.
    I made the box myself as I work sheetmetal and qualified sparky.

    Thanks for the idea fellas.

  7. #707
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    I purchased a PID from a fellow on the forum (who I won't name because he doesn't stand by his product and I don't want to give him any free advertising) long enough ago I've lost track. I'd guess somewhere back in early 2015. It won't hold a temp within 150 degrees! I turn it on and it's set a 670 degrees. About 45 minutes later, the lead is melted and it's still at 670 degrees. (that's a good thing, right?) But then when I start casting, the temp starts going up. I know to push and hold the AT button until the light comes on and then turns off, telling the unit to stay at the chosen temp. But it just keeps climbing. Today it went as high as 790 degrees. Oh, and when the PID was saying the temp was 790, my Roto Metals thermometer said it was about 720 degrees. How can I keep a good cycle and produce good bullets when the temp fluctuates that much. Is there a master "reset" button anywhere on the internals so I can start over????? Not happy with the PID. Heck, the temp control on my pot does better than that.
    Chris

  8. #708
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    Hard to guess what the problem is but there's a way to test the PID and the SSR. If they test good then it's gotta be the TC as that's the only thing left. Auber's Q&A explains how to test the PID and the SSR. If I were you I'd try a different TC first though as that's as likely as anything, if you have a spare one. I'm assuming you have a Mypin controller if you bought if from someone on here. PM me if there's anything I can help with.
    Mike

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  9. #709
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    Well, Mike, to start with, what's an SSR and a TC..............oh wait, that must be a thermo-couple, right? Yes, I have a Mypin controller. Where do I find this Auber's Q&A? Oh, and no spare thermo-couple around here. Where's a good place to buy one where I don't have to wait a week on-line?
    Chris

  10. #710
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    When building a PID you need to look at the specs on the TC.
    Most of the specs are in Celsius.
    You need one that does at least 400C.
    That would be 750f.
    I would look for the ones rated for 800C.
    That way they will last a long time and will also cover the temps you want to cast in with higher accuracy.

    MyPin brand PID controllers would great.


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  11. #711
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris C View Post
    Well, Mike, to start with, what's an SSR and a TC..............oh wait, that must be a thermo-couple, right? Yes, I have a Mypin controller. Where do I find this Auber's Q&A? Oh, and no spare thermo-couple around here. Where's a good place to buy one where I don't have to wait a week on-line?
    SSR is a solid state relay. Your Mypin PID is a little "brain" that tells the SSR when to turn current on/off to your pot. It reads the small voltage produced by temperature changes that it gets from the TC which is a thermocouple. The PID "trains" itself to basically predict how often to regulate the current and maintain the desired temperature after the unit is autotuned.

    http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=page&id=6

    That link should get you to their Q&A page for test tips.

    I'd get a WK-191 thermcoupler from them. They have a 6" stem too instead of the 4" ones usually seen on ebay. If you have the socket on the front or back of your unit to plug the TC into I believe for a whole dollar Auber will put the plug on for you and that is worth that any day!

    Another thing you might check is that your parameters are set correctly in your unit. It only takes one accidental bump to change them and screw things up. Generally the only thing you have to do from most factory settings is set the temperature and you have done that. It's one reason I recommend writing down the settings when you first get it and I've never noticed anyone mentioning that little tidbit. I know of a couple guys that were having some problems and just that fixed em' up. If you don't have a copy of the forbidden ones manual I do but I'd have to email to get it to you. PM if desired.
    Mike

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  12. #712
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    By "test tips" do you mean the instructions for putting the TC in distilled ice water? I've not been able to find a WK-191 on their website. I did find one that was for a smoker that went to 900 degrees........is that the one?

    Sent you a PM.
    Chris

  13. #713
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris C View Post
    By "test tips" do you mean the instructions for putting the TC in distilled ice water? I've not been able to find a WK-191 on their website. I did find one that was for a smoker that went to 900 degrees........is that the one?

    Sent you a PM.
    Hadn't looked at their Q&A for some time and don't see the tips I had in mind. I'll email those to you in a minute. To find that TC go to HOME PAGE OF Auberins.com scroll down to Temperature Sensors and then to Thermocouple Sensors.
    Mike

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  14. #714
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    Chris

  15. #715
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris C View Post
    That's the one! Also there should have just been one file in pdf on the one email. The other email had 3 different files and they were all in txt format. Don't know why the one said it bounced if you got it though.
    Mike

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  16. #716
    Boolit Buddy
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    Only received one e-mail, Mike. This is what was attached:

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    I was able to download them and print the .pdf manual, but can't open either of the other two.
    Chris

  17. #717
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris C View Post
    Only received one e-mail, Mike. This is what was attached:

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    I was able to download them and print the .pdf manual, but can't open either of the other two.
    Don't know where those 2 text files came from. I didn't send them or have anything like them on my computer. I'll resend the troubleshooting files which are in text format.
    Mike

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  18. #718
    Boolit Buddy
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    Okay, got your replacement e-mail(s). Thanks a million. I've got to get back to casting. (without the PID) I'll have to sit down and take some time to do all the testing required to find out what's going on with this crazy PID.
    Chris

  19. #719
    Boolit Buddy MaxJon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spark View Post
    Just made mine for $18au .... so 12 bucks merican.
    Got pid, 40a ssr, heatsink and TC in the kit. All from sleezebay. Delivered free.
    I made the box myself as I work sheetmetal and qualified sparky.

    Thanks for the idea fellas.
    Care to share the seller please Spark?
    THE ONLY WAY YOU CAN HIT THE CENTRE OF THE TARGET IS WITH A CENTREFIRE!!!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check