Project - PID on Lee Pro 4 20 furnace

[5Shot]

I am using 110v.

Dikman may be referring to your choice of wire colors. 110V is black (hot), white (neutral) and bare copper (ground). 220V uses black and red for the hot and green for ground, which is what you have drawn.

[htuong95]

Dikman may be referring to your choice of wire colors. 110V is black (hot), white (neutral) and bare copper (ground). 220V uses black and red for the hot and green for ground, which is what you have drawn.

Thanks for the help guys!

[dikman]

No, in his drawing the little box that shows the terminal connections indicates it's a 220v version?

[el34]

I looked at the datasheet for the Rex-C100. It shows power input is either 24VDC or 100-240VAC. It also says to make sure your model is specified for the power you will be using.

So if it's an AC model, 110vac should be fine.

It also says the full model number indicates SSR or relay output.

C100 QQQ -Q~ QQ

The bold/underlined Q tells you the output-

Control output [OUT]

M : Relay contact
V : Voltage pulse
8 : Current 4 to 20mA DC

G : Trigger (for triac driving) *1



Is your model# qqq-V qq? (Just looking at the 4th Q).

[dikman]

el, there is a 220v only version available (I found it by searching ebay). I don't know why they'd do that when they make a multi-voltage one. Just shows one has to read things very carefully....

[el34]

el, there is a 220v only version available (I found it by searching ebay). I don't know why they'd do that when they make a multi-voltage one. Just shows one has to read things very carefully....

Well, that settles that!
Plus the thing about its output, although it is for an SSR, is "reverse action". Technically speaking, that gives me bad vibes. My guess is it'll turn on a cooler if the temp is too hot, not turn on a heater if the temp's too cold. Just a SWAG.

[htuong95]

I sort of got the thing to work. It is now showing that my room temperature is 10c. It should read about 26c. I think I need to calibrate it some how.

On the plus side, the PID does turn the SSR on and off just fine. Plugging in my fan verified that.

The reverse action is in the SL6 setting. I've played with it awhile and found that the reverse action will activate the SSR once the temperature is over the set temperature. I think it is used in refrigerating.

Thanks for all the help guys. You guys really know your stuff.

[el34]

Did you connect the tc straight to the controller or did you put a disconnect somewhere and use non-tc wire and connector for connections? That can produce an error. I discovered that when making my controller, the non-tc wire and connector I used caused about a 40F error, similar to yours. The Mypin has the ability to enter a correction value so maybe yours does too.

[htuong95]

One has the stock connectors and the other has bare wires. My PID sometimes will work and other times the temperature will just jump around. I gave up trying to get this 220v version to work. I just ordered a MYPIN TA4 from a US Seller. It should be here next week.

[htuong95]

Here is my diagram for the Mypin TA4-SNR PID. Let me know if I need to correct something. Hope this help someone who is wiring up a Mypin PID.

[el34]

Good job.

One thing to know- if your pot is disconnected at a time when the controller is NOT trying to turn it on, the amber neon bulb will probably be on at partial brilliance anyway. This is due to 'leakage current' of the SSR but is nothing to worry about. If you experience this and it bothers you, it is easy to correct by adding a proper resistor across the output to the melter.

The resistor would be somewhere around 10k but would need to have a power rating of at least 2W. Or 22k at 1W might also work. Or 47k at 1/2W might. The resistance value is based on the leakage current, which probably isn't known. The power rating is based on actual power dissipation when the 110vac is turned on.

[stanford]

Attachment 78020

Utilizing this diagram is it possible to connect a 3 pin illuminated rocker switch as the on/off button? I would like the switch to light up when its turned on, pins 1-2 is silver, pin 3 is gold.

Appreciate any help...

[Mike W1]

Attachment 78020

Utilizing this diagram is it possible to connect a 3 pin illuminated rocker switch as the on/off button? I would like the switch to light up when its turned on, pins 1-2 is silver, pin 3 is gold.

Appreciate any help...

I'm not actually familiar with the switch you're talking about but I'd think the 2 silvers are hot IN & OUT and the other pin needs to be connected to the neutral side. Gotta have both sides to have a circuit to light the bulb.

[stanford]

I'm not actually familiar with the switch you're talking about but I'd think the 2 silvers are hot IN & OUT and the other pin needs to be connected to the neutral side. Gotta have both sides to have a circuit to light the bulb.

The switch is like this one

http://img.alibaba.com/wsphoto/v0/47...20A-125VAC.jpg

[Mike W1]

Check em' with an ohm meter. One won't have continuity to the other two. The two that open and close the circuit when you throw the switch get the hot (black leads), single goes to neutral (white).

[stanford]

Appreciate it Mike. Is it going to be the black (hot lead) is going to short the two pins which is pin 1-2 on the switch. Pin 3 is the neutral pin, funny they didn't even have a diagram for this switch.

Looks like I typed this out wrong. Checking to see if this is the correct way.

1 -> hot from AC
2 -> connected to LED
3 -> neutral

[el34]

It won't be an LED, it'll be a neon bulb. And I sure hope 1 and 3 don't get connected in either switch position. I agree with Mike- if you can get a meter to find out what is connected to what in both switch positions you'll be fine.

[Mike W1]

Appreciate it Mike. Is it going to be the black (hot lead) is going to short the two pins which is pin 1-2 on the switch. Pin 3 is the neutral pin, funny they didn't even have a diagram for this switch.

Looks like I typed this out wrong. Checking to see if this is the correct way.

1 -> hot from AC
2 -> connected to LED
3 -> neutral

I can't tell you which pins are which without a meter. As simple as I can put it is which ever two pins will make a circuit (0 ohms on the meter) when you go across them and then go open when you operate the switch to the other position are the two that get the hot leads.

[stanford]

el34,

If you look at the drawing the switch is connected to an LED for low temperature and another LED when its at the right temp. The original just has a switch without the illuminating light, I wanted to add one just to show that the unit is turned on.

When I checked the switch lastnight pins 1-2 is connected when you flip the switch.

Look at the drawing here: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/atta...chmentid=78020

[Mike W1]

el34,

If you look at the drawing the switch is connected to an LED for low temperature and another LED when its at the right temp. The original just has a switch without the illuminating light, I wanted to add one just to show that the unit is turned on.

When I checked the switch lastnight pins 1-2 is connected when you flip the switch.

Look at the drawing here: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/atta...chmentid=78020

That drawing doesn't show temperature alarms to me. All those lights do is show when the power is turned on and also going out. In order to show a temperature alarm they'd have to be wired to the proper contacts on the PID and whichever PID it is would make a difference on which contacts would be use.