The box was way bigger than I need but the price was right and I figured that I could always expand then. Most of the build is from parts that were going to get tossed out. I have about $20 invested in it and friends in the right places so to speak. What sucks is I am still waiting for my pot from midway along with my mold. I have never casted before so its going to be a learning experience. I have tons of hours in reading about it and I haven't even started yet.
Frozone, don't know if you're still watching this thread but if so I really thank you for that Mypin manual. I just received one, hooked up AC and a TC and was totally confused by the display characters and the nearly unreadable instructions.
Because of my ignorance I got a relay output by mistake, the ignorance was in not knowing that -RNR indicated relay output. I pulled it out of the case, saw the relay, and removed it from the pcb. I jumpered the coil drive pads to the contact pads so as to bring the relay control signaling directly to the output terminals. I measured 4V off, 24V on. Both levels exceed SSR control voltage requirements so I'm planning to add a little interfacing for a SSR.
I couldn't change the Relay Output setting (020) to the SSR setting. Assuming the firmware can do all output functions, is there a jumper or something that tells it if it's a -RNR or a -SNR? I saw an unoccupied single-inline row of pads right next to the relay, is that involved with SSR output?
I don't know if it's jumper controlled or locked firmware.
BTW RNR means 'Relay None Relay', SNR = 'SSR None Relay', SRR = 'SSR Relay Relay'
Can you shoot me a pix of the PC board around the main output?
I don't have a copy of a Rxx type to make a comparison.
I'll draw up the changes you need to make if they can be made.
The output circuit of the TA4 is an 'Open Collector' design.
One side of the relay coil is 24V+ the other side is the OC current sink. The current in the circuit is controlled by relay resistance (~ 1.8K ohm).
The 24v hot side of the relay coil is the SSR+, the other side is the SSR-.
I recommend a pullup resistor of ~ 220K between the SSR+ and the SSR-.
<edit>
Even if it can't be change the relay algorithm should do OK.
It just won't be as accurate, say +-2º instead of +-1º.
</edit>
Last edited by Frozone; 06-05-2013 at 12:08 AM.
Great reply Frozone, thank you very much. It told me all I need to know. I have a one-transistor-two-resistor circuit that will take the coil connections that I brought out to the terminals and drive the SSR input at about 8V (ON = 24V on one side, 16V on the other, OFF = 24V on both). It doesn't care what the SSR input impedance is and it doesn't need a ground from the TA but I'm curious- are any of the terminals circuit ground?
The firmware concern centered around potential algorithm differences but you pretty much cleared that up.
No, 24V ground is not available off board. (and it's hard to find on board)
It sounds like you over engineered the output.
Once you remove the relay.
Place a 220K resistor across the relay coil through holes. and run jumpers to the relay contact hole from each coil hole too.
One jumper is a 1.8k resistor the other is a wire. That's all there is to it.
Most SSRs will take up to a 32 V DC input. The 'standard' ones even have current limiters built in - you can leave the 1.8K resistor out.
All you needed to do is add the pullup resister.
You're right. I had an incorrect value for max input and did an easy thing to chop the 24V to 8. It works but I'd rather not have the unnecessary stuff. I don't think I'll need the series 1.8k because the input impedance of the SSR closely matches the relay's coil but I'll probably use it just to lighten the load on the relay driver.
What's the output specs on the -SNR?
Hey Cranium,
Just want to say thanks for sharing your project with all of us. I just finish up with mine today. I didn’t direct connect mine to the lead pot. Made separate so I could use it on different lead pots. Posted a picture of it. Thanks again Fixit
Last edited by fixit156; 08-02-2013 at 09:59 PM.
Great job. What do the lights tell ya?
"The urge to save humanity is almost always a false front for the urge to rule." --H. L. Menchen
The green one tells me it's on and there is power. Red one tells me when the unit is powering on the pot. I had them hanging around so decide to use them.
Many thanks. Great looking mobile setup!Originally Posted by fixit156
Hey Cranium,
Just want to say thanks for sharing your project with all of us. I just finish up with mine today. I didn’t direct connect mine to the lead pot. Made separate so I could use it on different lead pots. Posted a picture of it. Thanks again Fixit
I had the same idea and finally decided for one to indicate AC on to the pot and another connected to the alarm. I can set the alarm for a number of conditions but I'll start with setting it for overtemp to flag a shorted SSR. I plan a 3-way switch for Always On-Controller-Never On. My power switch is in back as part of the AC outlet for the pot. I'm having a little trouble merging ideas for the box, hope I wake up during the night with a great idea!
Nice job you did. Have you had any hiccups using it?
"The urge to save humanity is almost always a false front for the urge to rule." --H. L. Menchen
No haven't have any problems using it so far. Spent about three hours casting with it yesterday. Notice I spent a lot of time watching the tempurature change, held 750 F to about ten degree swing.
Fixit156 - that is an awesome unit, what parts did you use? I want to build one just like that.
Mookiie
I use a Cranium parts list on this thread I didn't use the case on that list. I bought the case and lights from www.youdoitelectronics.com. sorry I can't find the parts numbers.
I have looked at a number of PIDs and their specs. Is there a chance that there is a PID from an electric stove oven that could be used with just a change in thermocouple?
From the PID manual
ftp://206.174.53.227/Public/JConn%20...tionManual.pdf
or are PIDs for electric stoves somehow different.This symbol is for a 'J' type Thermocouple
This type has a range from 0ºC - 1200ºC
This symbol is for a 'E' type Thermocouple
This type has a range from 0ºC - 1000ºC
This symbol is for a 'S' type Thermocouple
This type has a range from 0ºC - 1600ºC
This symbol is for a 'Pt100' RTD type sensor
This type has a range from -199ºC - 600ºC
The reason I ask is that there are numerous electric stoves discarded with a PID in them - obtainable for the price of taking it off.
Go now and pour yourself a hot one...
How did you interface the PID to an outlet plug? Did you need any extra parts that are not on Craniums list?
Don't suppose you can dig the invoice out and list the parts you ordered individually? Tried looking at that site but could not find what you had. Little help please.
Last edited by mookiie; 07-28-2013 at 01:34 PM.
Folks, what changes do you make in the schematic to make the PID portable?Hey Cranium,
Just want to say thanks for sharing your project with all of us. I just finish up with mine today. I didn’t direct connect mine to the lead pot. Made separate so I could use it on different lead pots. Posted a picture of it. Thanks again Fixit
Looking at the schematic it looks like you could have a male power cord and female socket on the PID and plug in the power cord from the melting pot, but I can see where I could make a nice puff of smoke if I didn't have some good plans. I am no electronics guy.
Thanks.
Sorry it took so much time to get back to everyone. Here are the answers to your questions. I would just like to thank everyone on this thread for posting their information. I just used that information and modified it for my project. I purchase a small extension cord and I purchase the cabinet, LEDS and feet from http://www.youdoitelectronics.com/ I couldn’t find the part numbers for them on their website. So I drove over there today. Even the salesperson said he can’t find anything on their website. So I would just call (781-449-1005) them or Google the part numbers.
Cabinet LMB CR 645
Taper feet Philmore tapered cylinder foot 10-602
Lim rose pilot lights
Green B6012M5
Red B60110M1
I use this diagram to wire it. Cut the extension cord in half use the plug half for the cord male end. Wired the outlet end of the extension cord where it says power cord female end to lead pot. I didn't use the terminal board and fuse.
Thank you.
Well, I just ordered all my stuff so that I can build one, too. You guys are awesome, in that you have helped me learn so much about all of this stuff, but you sure cost me a lot of money!
Here's what I ordered:
1 ea. Box for 1/16 DIN controller Item #: Pbox16 $28.67
1 ea. K type high temperature thermocouple for heat treatment Item #: WRNK-191
Probe Length Option - 6" (150 mm) $18.62
1 ea. Double Pole Single Throw Rocker Switch 250V 15A. Item #: KCD4 $4.80
1 ea. 25A SSR. Item #: MGR-1D4825 $15.00
1 ea. Thermal Grease, Silicone Compound. Item #: SI-2.5 $2.17
1 ea. Universal 1/16 DIN PID Temperature Controller. Item #: SYL-2362 $42.55
1 ea. Flashing Buzzer, 110 or 240V AC. 22 mm. Item #: FLBuz
Power Voltage Option - 120V AC/DC. $7.86
1 ea. 120V 15A US Socket, Panel Mount, NEMA 5-15R. Item #: OUTS1 $1.95
1 ea. Heat Sink for Solid State Relay, 25A. Item #: HS25 $9.65
$131.27Sub-Total:
$0.00 Sales Tax:
$15.96 FedEx (Ground Home Delivery):
$147.23 Total:
Hopefully all of this is the right stuff. Can't wait for it to arrive and get it built! The constant temperature fluctuations and adjustments while casting have been a real pain. I almost won't know what to do with myself without having to constantly deal with that!
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