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Thread: Project - PID on Lee Pro 4 20 furnace

  1. #721
    Boolit Buddy
    Devon's Avatar
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    Can the TC-K6 thermocouple be mounted in the bottom of the pot? Immersed in lead?

    It has 1/4-20 threads.

    http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...&products_id=2

  2. #722
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    Quote Originally Posted by Devon View Post
    Can the TC-K6 thermocouple be mounted in the bottom of the pot? Immersed in lead?

    It has 1/4-20 threads.

    http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...&products_id=2
    And to answer my own question, yes it will leak.

  3. #723
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    It's not designed for that application. Weld a nut to the bottom of the pot and screw it into it so the TC bottoms out against the base of the pot


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  4. #724
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    Quote Originally Posted by HATCH View Post
    It's not designed for that application. Weld a nut to the bottom of the pot and screw it into it so the TC bottoms out against the base of the pot


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    I like this idea but lack a welder. Would JB weld work this application? I know there are all sort is variants of it. Just wondering if it would hold up to the heat and pressure.

  5. #725
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    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
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    I haven't investigated the bottom of the Lee pot for a bottom mounted TC, but I would think it would be thin enough for mounting via a "through hole", with a nut on the inside.

    I wouldn't trust any JB weld or epoxy, unless it was rated for 1000º F continuous.

  6. #726
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    You would need a well if your gonna drill thru the bottom as it will always leak.



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  7. #727
    Boolit Man
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    A copper washer under the nut on the inside of the pot may possibly
    be leak proof/resistant. ???
    I do think that the best would be a fixed tube/well in/alongside the inside wall of the
    pot into which one inserts (a long enough) TC will be the best setup. That is what I
    plan on now that I have my PID built. Too cold right now on my casting bench in the garage to try it out.
    beltfed/arnie

  8. #728
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    Why not just use a ‘washer style’ TC under the nut that screws onto the bottom pour spout on the inside between the inner and outer shells of the pot? By doing that, the only drilling would be on the ‘outer’ shell without the worry of leakage. Of course you would first need to disassemble the pot in order to do that.

  9. #729
    Quote Originally Posted by Rhoa4396 View Post
    Why not just use a ‘washer style’ TC under the nut that screws onto the bottom pour spout on the inside between the inner and outer shells of the pot? By doing that, the only drilling would be on the ‘outer’ shell without the worry of leakage. Of course you would first need to disassemble the pot in order to do that.
    I used a plain wire junction TC crimped onto a large ring terminal on the spout nut. Just adjust the POD offset to match actual lead temp thermometer. A little work but the best solution.

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

  10. #730
    Quote Originally Posted by LoneStarTx View Post
    I used a plain wire junction TC crimped onto a large ring terminal on the spout nut. Just adjust the POD offset to match actual lead temp thermometer. A little work but the best solution.

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
    Oops, not POD, PID offset

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

  11. #731
    Quote Originally Posted by flemdoug View Post
    Phlier, I just finished up my new PID as well. This is just an idea for a thermocouple mount rig that is working great for me. I went to Home Depot and picked up a 12" X 5/16" length of threaded stock, and an L-shaped bifold door bottom bracket, a few 5/16" nuts/washers, and a 5/16" wingnut. I sawed the back off the bottom bracket (so that the L part of the bracket would not interfere with the wings on the wingnut) and drilled out the plastic section to fit the transition section on my thermocouple (I drilled just a few thousands smaller so I had to use a little force to push the thermocouple into the plastic). You can see how the threaded stock is secured to the base in the pics. (I wanted the mount to attach to the base instead of the pot to reduce as much as possible any heat transfer to the thermocouple. Probably not necessary since the sensor is in the tip, but Auberin also suggests only 3" submersion for the 6" thermocouple. So to avoid any issues I chose this approach.)

    It works great, allowing me to adjust the up/down and in/out (toward side or center of pot) so that I can position the thermocouple exactly. (Although in/out can out is also somewhat adjustable by swinging the assembly close to the edge of the pot or farther out). My only concern was how the plastic would hold up to the heat. At 850 degrees, it did not melt or change properties. (I apologize for the orientation of the pics, for some reason the software wants to rotate them horizontally)

    Attachment 184207Attachment 184208Attachment 184209
    Nice setup but plastic is not needed. As you said the TC sensor is only at tip. The TC tube is only to protect wire insulation.

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check