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Thread: LEE 1 OZ slug load subbed for heavier shot load?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    LEE 1 OZ slug load subbed for heavier shot load?

    Hey Guys,

    Probably beating a dead horse here but I have searched 6 ways to Sunday and cant find an answer, where I live shotshell components are almost non existent but I finally managed to put together everything listed in Hodgdon's manual for the hulls I had. I have read many posts (with imperical data to prove the contention)stating that exchanging a 1 oz slug for 1 oz shot payload will result in lower pressures, using that rational it would seem that subbing 1 oz for 1.1/8 oz would have correspondingly lower pressures than a 1 for 1 swap. So I am very comfortable doing this but dont want to end up with slug loads that are to anemic.

    Here is a list of the components I have, and I'll note the loads Hodgdon has for a 1.1/8 oz shot load;

    HULL - Remington Premier STS (once fired
    WAD - Winchester AA12
    POWDER - Clay's
    PRIMER - Winchester 209
    SLUG - LEE 1 oz

    In my Hodgdon's manual they list all these components for 1.1/8 oz shot with three different loads, I'll list these along with pressure and velocity as shown in the manual;

    1090 FPS - 16.2 grains Clay's @ 8,100 PSI

    1145 FPS - 17.3 grains Clay's @ 9,700 PSI

    1200 FPS - 18.4 grains Clay's @ 11,300 PSI

    I have to use one of these loads and substitute the lighter 1 oz LEE slug, which should I use? I dont need full bore high end loads and would like to stick somewhere in the middle, as longest range I would ever use these would be 100 yards. Would the 17.3 grain load get me where I want to be? Or would that end up bein a much lighter load because the payload is 1/8 oz lighter? If that is the case should I just go with the 18.4 to hit my middle of the road target?

    Thanks in advance.

    Jeff

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    troyboy's Avatar
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    Start light and work your way up. Load 3-5 each and test for accuracy and pressure.
    "It is better to die on your feet than to live on your knees"

  3. #3
    Boolit Man
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    JKH A lighter load will take more powder. Slugs do create less pressure to = shot. I would start with the 18.4gr. and work up a little at a time and end up in the low 20's to get decent volocity.

  4. #4
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    Hello Jeff, on one side you mentioned you are looking to load mild loads and not full power loads. Then you mentioned your longest shot will be 100 yards.
    For a 100 yards shot you need pretty much full or close to full power loads.
    I would say 100 yards is the max for Lee Drive Key 1oz slug.
    Clays is a very fast burning powder! I'd prefer a slower burning powder.
    Ajay
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  5. #5
    Boolit Master GabbyM's Avatar
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    Lee also has load data on there web site for the slugs. Not sure if it would help

  6. #6
    Boolit Master

    Moonie's Avatar
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    I use Clays for light loads, Unique for slightly heavier but plan to use Bluedot for the heavy stuff. Lee has a load using the Remington Premier STS hull, the WW12 wad and 49gr of Bluedot for around 1650fps...

    It should loosen your fillings. I picked up a pound of Bluedot day before yesterday and my WW12's should be here today, got a Dentist on speed dial.


  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    thanks for the input guys, I will go with the 18.4 to start & go from there. my biggest concern is not having a chronograph, but if the 18.4 grain load is acceptably accurate & drop is within reason at 100 yards I will leave it at that. My intentions are to develop a working load & then put up 250 to 500 for "just in case" purposes, good for putting meat on the table or for self defense, I'm not enough of a masochist to use a slug gun for plinking or target pactice!

    I plan on leaving my boys a good hoard of suff when I'm gone to keep them shooting & have the means to survive & protect the family no matter what, some day lead will be much more valuable than gold!

    Hopefully I can load & try some this weekend, if not it will have to wait a week.

    Thanks guys!

    Jeff

  8. #8
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    Hello Jeff, here is the Lee Drive Key loading data:


    Hope it helps.
    Ajay
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    www.PreciousVideoMemories.Com
    Last edited by VdoMemorie; 05-05-2011 at 05:23 PM.

  9. #9
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    Well I can't speak for Jeff but that sure helps me out.
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  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    many thanks, data I have, components are the rub

  11. #11
    Boolit Master

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    Ok, shot my heavy loads thursday last week. Only shot about 3 or 4 of them. Yes 49gr of bluedot WILL loosen your fillings, my shoulder was sore for days. Should make for a good hunting load for my son in law.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master jmsj's Avatar
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    Jeff,
    Here's a really informative thread, kind of long but turbo1889 has a lot of really great insights into load substituting

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=107590

    Hopes this helps, jmsj

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    Hey guys,

    I primed all my hulls last night and then loaded 5 slugs.

    Due to the design of the wads and the taper of the hulls, there is a slight anular bulge/ring right at the base of the slugs, will this cause any issues? I plan on pulling the barrel from my shotgun (Maverick 88 with long rifle sight slug barrel) and seeing how they fit the chamber, I did use the sizing ring on all the hulls to ensure that the brass bases would freely chamber like new unfired hulls.

    I installed the powder busing on my LEE loadall thatwas shown to throw an 18.2 grain charge with clays, I then threw numerous charges into a hull and then weighed them on my RCBS beam scale, the load was under 18 grains each time but consistent within + or- 2/10's grain maximum but typically within + or - 1/10 grain. So I installed the next size bushing wich threw a 19.7 grain load consistently + or - 1/10 grain. I decided to go with that being that the initial load data was for a heavier payload and data with very similar components (but not identicle with only one component different such as the wad) for 1OZ slugs using clays were showing higher weight charges than that, after I test fit the loaded slugs in the detached barrel I will set the shotgun up in an old tire and test fire remotely just in case, probably overkill but what the hey?! ;^ )

    One thing for certain, loading shot shells is enormously different than metallic case reloading and I dont think I will forray into the realm to many more times! I plan on finishing up with 250 slugs loaded and put away for just in case and then loading 250 buckshot loads for the same scenario, I MAY load 250 shot loads for bird hunting if it becomes a necessity to put some meat on the table but the price of shot is a bit scary right now!

    Thanks for all the great advice, I'll let you know what transpires some time soon.

    Jeff

  14. #14
    Boolit Mold
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    I've built up a few shotgun loads totally away from any published data (both slug and shotshell) and have found that safe and acceptable varies a bit. Shotguns don't give as conspicuous a pressure sign as a rifle or pistol case does. You don't get flattened primers and thinning headstamps like you do with them. Usually you get recoil and an eroded hull. I've experimented with quite a few loads where I just had a hull base left and no sign of the hull. If the recoil is tolerable and the hull isn't stretched or eroded, ods are it's an ok load. It's really difficult to say accurately when you don't know the velocity. I've got a good bit of shotshell and slug data that I''l look through tomorrow to see is I can give you some better info.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
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LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
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