Let's talk melting pots gentlemen...

[Idaho Sharpshooter]

This is looking very good. How will the foot pedal thingie fit, and the temp controller? Also, let's talk a minute about the temp control for a big Turkey Cooker smelting pot...

Rich

[Idaho Sharpshooter]

You all just remember that I took the initiative to PM with Matt and encourage him to do the pot at 90lbs. That means mine is the first one! I have shipping arranged if he can get it finished before my brother leaves StL for the Quigley.

Rich

as my Grandmother used to say "don't make me send you out to the willow tree to cut a switch..."

[happy7]

It looks very good to me. All the things wrong with the Magma pot have been fixed. I would definitely buy one, maybe two and sell my magma.

[Matt3357]

haha. You are definitely number 1 Rich. I will start procuring prices for parts in a couple weeks and get a price chart so I can set a retail value and all different combinations for everything. Thanks for being patient.

On top getting this together and graduating, I'll need to become a vendor sponsor I believe to sell these for a profit lest I become banned. I'll have to give Ken a call to set that up. Patience from you guys will be needed.

Any other feedback on the design? I believe I have addressed all the issues discussed earlier, but other ideas always arise.

Thanks,
Matt

[Matt3357]

happy7,

What was wrong with Magma pot that I have fixed with my design? Just curious.

Matt

[Matt3357]

Rich,

I just reread your post where you asked where the foot pedal would fit in. I am planning on offering types of pots in the fact that one will be manually operated and one will be electric. The foot pedal on the electric will just be a momentary contact switch hooked into the circuit. I just got another idea to offer a foot pedal on the manually operated pot which would be a foot pedal that pulls the lever down via throttle cable. All this will be in the product chart I put together in a couple weeks.

Matt

[Matt3357]

I have come across a bit of snag. Nothing detrimental but maybe you guys can help me out. I have been doing some research about mechanical thermostats and have come up pretty much empty on an economical option. What I want is called a pressure thermostat. It is the same style that RCBS uses. I found one from Waage:

http://waage.thomasnet.com/item/acce...trols/knp6-36?

but as you can see, the price is more than a PID setup.

I also found this on an old thread on here.

http://orders.ppe.com/odr/rbpperetail.htm?p-part=B-200

Basically it is an adjustable bimetal switch. I couldn't imagine it being very accurate and would be a pain because it has to mount on the pot.

If anyone has any ideas, please let me know.

Matt

[happy7]

The magma pot you can't see under unless it is mounted at chest height almost. And the mold guide is very, very awkward to adjust if you use different molds. Plus it has no indicator as to whether the heating band is on. And no on/off switch other than the thermostat.

As far as the thermostat, you won't need that for PID models, correct? That is what I want.

[Idaho Sharpshooter]

Matt,

1. height under spout. I was in on the NOE 323471 buy. Five cavity mould with the end two cavities HP'ed is going to run nearly four inches in height. Swede can give you exact dimensions. I believe the mould support is going to have to be a rail, not the rod. Someone here with better camera and photo posting skills is going to have to post.
I think the rail can be something simple like a 1/4" wide by 1/2" tall by .1" thick piece alloy or aluminum. These moulds are going to have to rest on the rail and slide along under the spout to work.

Rich

Ta-Da! Osama's dead!

[Matt3357]

Gotcha on the Magma. Got all that under control. And no the PID models will not require a thermostat. I was going to see if I could offer a simpler model for a bit less, but it is looking like that is a no go. I'll keep looking but I think I can sell a PID unit for a decent price. Gonna have to fire up the plasma cutter and welder and we'll be rolling in no time. (meaning like a month)

Matt

[Matt3357]

Rich,

In that drawing we are at 4 3/8" inches from bottom of nozzle to top of plate. I'll bump it up a bit.

For the mold guide, are you talking more like the lyman mold guide? Some pictures of the mold in question would be very helpful. I think I can make one that will mount on the rear upright and support it like you are talking. We will see.

Matt

[tonyjones]

Matt,

I cannot speak for others but I would prefer PID control to any T-stat. Especially if the same PID unit can be used with both the casting and melting pots, lube/sizer heater, hot plate, etc. However, if you can figure out who Waage buys theit T-stat from you will probably find a better price.

I plan to build a casting bench with adjustable height so I can place the pot at differing elevations for ladle casting or bottom pouring. Therefore, I don't need the notched bottom feature that you illustrated. I also don't need the hot spot but it's not a deal killer either way.

When you have the opportunity, please provide illustrations of your PID controller and the PB control for the valve actuator you intend to use. Some description of their connections would be helpful. A drawing of your valve assembly would also be appreciated.

Thanks and regards,

Tony

[Matt3357]

Tony,

PID is the base model for this unit for sure. When I get my PID unit back up and running, I'll post a picture of how I have it set up.

As far as the notch goes, since these pots will be fabricated from scratch (meaning no mass production) Simple changes like that are easy to accommodate for. Some people want the notch, some don't.

The push button would either apply direct power to the solenoid to actuate the valve or it will operate a relay that would actuate the solenoid. Not sure which way yet. I will post a cut away picture of the valve assembly later this evening.

The control box will contain connections for both the push button and the foot pedal. It will be a simple unit.

Matt

[Matt3357]

Valve Assembly


Nozzle



Valve rod seated in nozzle cutaway view


If you have any questions or feedback on this valve design I would love to hear it. I have one just like this on the pot on my lead shot maker so I know it holds up 60lbs of liquid lead without a drip. The seat is comprised of a 9/32" counter sink with an 82 deg angle (drill bit) and the valve rod tip has a tool steel ball bearing welded to it. Perfect sphere and super smooth makes for a great seal with zero sensitivity to alignment angle.

Thanks,
Matt

[Matt3357]

I forgot to explain that the two 3/16" holes on the side of the nozzle are for the lead to run into. The nozzle is threaded into the bottom of the pot until the holes are just almost all the way above the bottom of the pot then the nut will be tightened against the bottom of the pot and the bolt and nozzle will be welded together. This does two things, it allows for precise placement of the nozzle every time, minimizes leaks by sealing the threads, and adds mass to the nozzle so it becomes a much less efficient fin. The pot I have right now uses a 1/2" bolt and will freeze up if I am not careful. So far I am good with the beefier nozzle with zero freezes.

Matt

[old wanderer]

Matt,

When you finally get firmed up on everything, do not be shocked if you suddely hear from some of us "lurkers" out here that have been silent so far.

[OeldeWolf]

Yep, lurkers like me. I may not be able to afford a pot, but an hoping to afford a pid unit. Though if I get a new tenant in, maybe a pot could be also afforded.

[happy7]

Could the tip of the valve be cone shaped to allow it to fit into the sprue hole on the sprue plate a little? This will make for easier pressure casting on those molds that need that.

[happy7]

At least with a removeable nozzle, if we later come up with a design that works better, it could be changed.

[Matt3357]

happy7,

Things like that are easy changes and could easily be changed for any specific order since each will be fabbed individually.

I have a few things I need to work out with the way the pot attaches to the stand, but I think we are close to a firm design that will be easy to produce.

If there are any other questions, please don't hesitate to ask.

Thanks,
Matt