Titan ReloadingStainLess Steel MediaRotoMetals2MidSouth Shooters Supply
Inline FabricationGraf & SonsBallisti-CastLee Precision
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 21

Thread: Security Six cylinder binding problem.

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    2ndAmendmentNut's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    1,309

    Security Six cylinder binding problem.

    Mrs. 2ndAmendmentNut picked out a 6” blue Security Six a while back. Lots of holster wear on the outside, a new gun on the inside. She really enjoys shooting it, however there is a pretty noticeable problem. At least one out of every 12~18 shots the trigger will be very difficult to pull do to cylinder binding. It appears to be do to either lead, powder residue, or copper fouling, building up on the face of the cylinder, making the barrel cylinder gap very tight. Problem occurs with boolits and bullets. I have noticed that on the front of the cylinder on about one half the bluing is starting to wear off, this is also the one half that when rotated into battery the problem seems to usually occur. So I am guessing my problem is the gun does not have an even or proper cylinder gap. Any other ideas? Any advice on how to fix this? Something I could do with a little 400 grit sandpaper on the cylinder face? Or is this best left up to a professional?

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    US, Wash, PA
    Posts
    4,945
    My guess is that the gun has more end shake than it has BC gap. So as the cylinder indexes, it is allowed to move forward and bind.

    These guys sell them, but I am not sure which size will fit as they are different and made for each gun. Or how many you might need. (based upon how much play you "need" to take out)

    http://powercustom.com/store/index.p...26493cca02ec28



    I have a size for a Redhawk that might just fit if you want one. Use the PM if you do.
    Evaluate everything you read for safety and use common sense.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master NHlever's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    1,403
    The Security Six series has a habit of building up junk between the cylinder, and the ejector rod. The cylinder needs to be unscrewed ( left hand thread using a couple of fired cases in a vise for a wrench), and the inside parts cleaned. There are a couple of "extra" pieces in there so take it apart over a shop rag on your bench once you break the initial tightness. They will then run lilk a top for another several thousand rounds.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master pdawg_shooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    S.W. kansas east of dodge city
    Posts
    3,582
    Sounds like the front of the cylinder is not square with the axis.
    45 AUTO! Because having to shoot someone twice is just silly!

  5. #5
    Boolit Master

    firefly1957's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Harrison Michigan
    Posts
    5,155
    You need to measure the gap on all six chambers if it varies call Ruger they will do god by you and the Mrs. A auto parts store will have feeler gages top do the measuring if you have none already.
    When I think back on all the **** I learned in high school it's a wonder I can think at all ! And then my lack of education hasn't hurt me none I can read the writing on the wall.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    2ndAmendmentNut's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    1,309
    Thank you all. I pulled the cylinder off and did not find it to be all that dirty. I will pick up a feeler gage soon here and determine if the cylinder gap is consistent or not.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master


    Larry Gibson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Lake Havasu City, Arizona
    Posts
    13,029
    If anything needs "facing" I would face of the back of the barrel. Not hard to do, was a common problem with even S&Ws on police ranges when lots of practice cast bullets were used. Barrel cylinder gap should be .004 - .006 around the cylinder.

    BTW; I've a Security Six also with a 6' barrel and it did the same thing. I faced off the rear of the barrel for a .004 barrel cylinder gap and haven't had a problem since. Hell for stout .357 and my favorite .357 over several S&Ws. Though, as NHLever mentions, the inside around the ejector rod needs to be kept clean.

    Larry Gibson

  8. #8
    Boolit Master pdawg_shooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    S.W. kansas east of dodge city
    Posts
    3,582
    I think he said it was dragging on 1 side not all the way around. If he files the barrel he will have excess gap half the time.
    45 AUTO! Because having to shoot someone twice is just silly!

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Eastern Nebraska
    Posts
    2,051
    My Security Six used to do this. It ended up being an occasional granule of unburned powder sneaking under the ejector star during reloads. Every so often, it must drop out and everythings fine... until the next time. 2400 & Unique were the worst offenders

  10. #10
    Boolit Master


    GP100man's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Southeast, NC (Coastal plains)
    Posts
    2,030
    Call Ruger , ask for a pick up box , I doubt they pick up shippin but ask your gun shop what they`ll charge to ship also .

    The cyl is`nt square .
    GP100man

  11. #11
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Near Fort Leonard Wood, Mo
    Posts
    110
    Perhaps your gun is suffering from detective flick, or as I like to call it, dick slap. That's where someone uses momentum to close the cylinder by spinning the run rapidly to the right hand side. You may have a bent yoke/crane on your gun. Check the front of your gun under the barrel and see if there's an excessive gap between the frame and yoke/crane.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
    MGySgt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    VA
    Posts
    1,566
    Clean under the ejector Star - my S&W's do it too!
    Big Bore = 45+

  13. #13
    Boolit Master pdawg_shooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    S.W. kansas east of dodge city
    Posts
    3,582
    How does fowling under the ejector star cause the front of the cylinder to rub the barrel shank? If i understand the first post, the front of the cylinder is rubbing the barrel shank but only on about half the cylinder. Sure sounds like the cylinder is not faced off square with the axis of the cylinder. The fix for this would be facing the cylinder square or replacing the cylinder wit one properly machined.
    45 AUTO! Because having to shoot someone twice is just silly!

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
    MGySgt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    VA
    Posts
    1,566
    If the Star can not go all the way back into position, the Case presses against the recoil sheild which pushes the front of the cylinder forward into the back of the barrel if you have to much endplay or too much carbon build up on either the cylinder or barrel.
    Big Bore = 45+

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
    2ndAmendmentNut's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    1,309
    I got a feeler gage, and this is what I learned… The cylinder does seem to either not be on there perfectly straight, or perhaps the face is not perfectly square. Four of the chambers have a gap of 0.005", and two have a gap of 0.004”. There is some end shake in the cylinder which tightens the gap all the way round and could be my problem, so I have ordered some bushings to try and see if that helps. This revolver has always shot very accurately and I get zero leading, other then the minor residue that accumulates causing the binding. Could taking the end sake out perhaps fix my problem, or is the cylinder gap that varies by less then 0.001” a more serious problem that should warrant a trip back to Ruger?

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    US, Wash, PA
    Posts
    4,945
    Quote Originally Posted by 2ndAmendmentNut View Post
    I got a feeler gage, and this is what I learned… The cylinder does seem to either not be on there perfectly straight, or perhaps the face is not perfectly square. Four of the chambers have a gap of 0.005", and two have a gap of 0.004”. There is some end shake in the cylinder which tightens the gap all the way round and could be my problem, so I have ordered some bushings to try and see if that helps. This revolver has always shot very accurately and I get zero leading, other then the minor residue that accumulates causing the binding. Could taking the end sake out perhaps fix my problem, or is the cylinder gap that varies by less then 0.001” a more serious problem that should warrant a trip back to Ruger?


    Don't take the end shake out. Just back the cylinder off enough to prevent the bind. One .002 washer aught to do it.

    End shake is built into double actions for heat expansion. It develops on it's own as part of the shooting process and its generally a need for the cylinder to alter direction to allow the slug to exit into the bore. Backing the cylinder up lessens the angle for entry. Sort of like making the forcing cone angle more gentle. And it improves ignition by tightening headspace at the same time. But you don't want it too tight or you will have other issues.

    Wonder about BC gap measurement? For a test, measure your other guns if you dare.
    Evaluate everything you read for safety and use common sense.

  17. #17
    Black Powder 100%
    cajun shooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Livingston, La. 20 miles east of Baton Rouge, La.
    Posts
    3,943
    Pdawg_shooter, I attended the school at Ruger for police armorers and also others. The trash under the star may cause you to have a head ache as most shooters can't figure it out. The problem with asking what is wrong with any gun opens a Pandora's Box. You will have to address each answer to find a possible answer if it has been given. You may have as little as a few grains of powder residue under the extractor and the revolver will bind like crazy. One of the points always used against the revolver in it being a good defensive weapon when compared to the semi-auto pistol. The end of the barrel may not be flush or even and cause the cylinder to bind in one area and not another, again seen all the time. The end shake of the cylinder is another possible problem. I don't remember if anyone suggested a bent extractor rod but it goes on the list and a good armorer will have a run out tool to check for this. A simple problem is also a loose extractor rod which is missed a lot. Don't attempt to tighten unless you have empty hulls in the cylinder,at least three. If you are not qualified to do the checks and fixes then off to the man with the shingle.
    Shooter of the "HOLY BLACK" SASS 81802 AKA FAIRSHAKE; NRA ; BOLD; WARTHOG;Deadwood Marshal;Bayou Bounty Hunter; So That his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who neither know victory nor defeat

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
    2ndAmendmentNut's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    1,309
    Quote Originally Posted by Bass Ackward View Post
    Don't take the end shake out. Just back the cylinder off enough to prevent the bind. One .002 washer aught to do it.
    Thanks I'll keep that in mind. I really doubt if a cylinder gap that goes from .004 to .005 is anything to worry about.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master pdawg_shooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    S.W. kansas east of dodge city
    Posts
    3,582
    If I had a revolver with enough end shake to cause the cylinder to rub the barrel I would be repairing or getting rid of it PDQ. If it was a high round count gun I would rebuild it. If it was new or low round count it would go back to the factory or to the next gun show.
    45 AUTO! Because having to shoot someone twice is just silly!

  20. #20
    Boolit Master
    2ndAmendmentNut's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    1,309
    Just updating to say thanks.

    I picked up a package of 0.002” thick cylinder bushings from MidwayUSA and installed one under the cylinder. The Mrs.’s Security Six now runs like a champ, thanks guys for all the helpful input.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check