Share Your Tip Of The Day

[SciFiJim]

Regular rubber bands used to hold molds closed and together for storage will crystallize with age and break. Use a band cut from a bicycle tube. I have to stretch it out some to be able to get in on the mold. I have never have one break with age.

[1Shirt]

When it comes to anything gun related, (DON'T TRUST OBAMA)!
1Shirt!

[Norbrat]

I pre-heat my moulds by leaving the mould balancing on the top of the pot as it heats up, then dipping the corners and sprue plate into the melt.

I know there are folks who say this will ruin a mould, but the Lee instructions suggest dipping a corner for pre-heating their moulds.

I couldn't see how this would damage the mould in any way, so started doing it with all my moulds, whether they are made from ally, iron or brass.

After doing this for over 25 years, all my moulds still function perfectly and the first bullets out of the moulds are usually keepers.

[Catshooter]

Nor,

What you're doing won't hurt the mould, as you know.

I used to do the same and it works fine. Now a days I use a small hot plate. For me this works much better, the mould gets hotter and I can pre-heat up to five moulds at a time.

Welcome to the forum too.


Cat

[kbstenberg]

I just started using a RCBS Lube sizer. Each bullet needs to be forced into the sizing die to different depths. So I have started pre=measuring all the bullets as to where the lube rings are then figure out how far into the sizer the bullet has to be pushed then write it down near the sizer.
Like 225415 has to have its nose .015 below sizer face
Kevin

[Molly]

If you enjoy playing with the grandkids and squib loads like I do, you might have been annoyed at the RCBS "Little Dandy" powder measure if it doesn't happen to throw exactly the charge you want - again, like me. But there's a way to deal with it very easily. Pick out a rotor that's a bit larger than what you want, and dry out the powder cavity with some lighter fluid. Then mix up some five minute epoxy and pour in enough to cover the bottom of the cavity, and a little more for insurance. Let it harden, and see how much it throws. (should be less than you want.) Then take a drill bit that's close in diameter, and rotate it by hand to remove a little of the cured epoxy. Check the amount dispensed again. If you overshoot, just add a little more epoxy. Repeat as necessary to get it right. Then use a scribe or punch to mark the end so you won't accidently use it by mistake.

Another Dandy rotor tip: They fit perfectly in plastic 12 gauge shotgun shell boxes for storage.

[JohnH]

For checking light charges of fast powders in bottle neck cases, go to Wally World and pick up a tire guage with a square reader stem. Remove reader stem and drop it into charged cases. Light charges, heavy charges and double charges show up instantly. Infinately better than a flashlight.

[trixter]

For checking light charges of fast powders in bottle neck cases, go to Wally World and pick up a tire guage with a square reader stem. Remove reader stem and drop it into charged cases. Light charges, heavy charges and double charges show up instantly. Infinately better than a flashlight.

Now that is a real good idea.......off to wallyworld.

[floridaboy]

Lubeing Tumble Lube Bullets. I have been useing the Lee TL 200 gr. SWC for my 1911 45acp. Up to now i have used Alox tumble lube. I got tired of haveing to wipe down the bullets after loading them. I have been using a Lyman bullet sizer for my 45 colt loads so just for fun i thought i would try lubeing my tumble bullets in the Lyman sizer and see if it would work. The bullets looked good and after shooting them i can report it worked.

[hiram]

To use a brush on my 44-40 M92 I have to clean from the muzzle. My muzzle guide is a 38 special case with primer pocket drilled out.

The case fits perfectly in the muzzle and the rim prevents it from falling through.

[max range]

My tip of the day is to pony up the cash and tumble your brass with stainless steel pins that are made for polishing brass and a rotary tumbler. For decades I used the corn/walnut vibrator method. I dislike buying the same thing over and over. Thats why I cast boolitz. Buying polish and media once or twice a year and watching the price go up and up.

Now I use the pins, plus a squirt of dish soap and a pinch of Lemon Brite. Even brass from 1984 stored in paper cigar boxes came out like new. Even the primer pockets and the inside of the case look like the outside. Its like I am using virgin brass.

#2
The BEST penetrating oil is KROIL. It also works as a bore cleaner. I am not a follower of marketing hype. I recommend these things because they work and are very cost effective. I have an old jeep I am restoring so penetrating oil that allows a rusted, fastener that is a half century+ old to come off without heat is a blessing.

My first post, this is a great forum.

[Jim_Fleming]

Welcome Max Range!

Sent from my Droid

[Molly]

My tip of the day is to pony up the cash and tumble your brass with stainless steel pins that are made for polishing brass and a rotary tumbler.

Got a source for them?

[44wcf]

Got a source for them?

http://www.stainlesstumblingmedia.com/

[Molly]

http://www.stainlesstumblingmedia.com/

Thanks. The before & after pictures on their web site are REALLY impressive. I notice they seem to use rotary tumblers only. Wonder if they work with vibratory tumblers?

[gwpercle]

Don't ever use your wife's kitchen stove as a heat source for a boolit casting or lead smelting session. It's very tempting when the weather outside is bad but no matter how well you clean up there's going to be evidence left somewhere ( and she will find it ) or you will have some godawful accident that's not possible to conceal. So don't even even consider the kitchen stove - unless you get permission first and have a really understanding wife who puts up with a lot of your highjinks because she loves you. Around my house when mama ain't happy nobody's happy, including the dog and cats.

[Gun Junkie]

I bought a cheap set of steel alphabet and number punches and punch my ingots as soon as they are cool;

Wheel weights - WW or W
Linotype - LT or L
#2 alloy - 2
#1 alloy - 1
Pure lead - PB or PL

These marks don't wear off or fade...well until you melt the ingot of course.

[bumpo628]

I bought a cheap set of steel alphabet and number punches and punch my ingots as soon as they are cool;

Wheel weights - WW or W
Linotype - LT or L
#2 alloy - 2
#1 alloy - 1
Pure lead - PB or PL

These marks don't wear off or fade...well until you melt the ingot of course.

What is the composition of Lyman #1?
I know that Lyman #2 has 5% tin & 5% antimony, but I've never seen the formula for #1 before.

[Bullet Caster]

These posts are great especially for a beginner like me. I liked geargnasher's idea of making up dummy rounds for each type of boolit you reload. Then someone suggested cutting a case lengthwise and you can see at which depth you're seating the boolit. Great ideas and I probably will do this ASAP. Just about everyone here has contributed to my knowledge base. Before doing anything esp. reloading, I want to digest all the information I can before I begin. That way I feel more positive about the task I'm about to undertake.
About using a bicycle tire for storing moulds, why on earth would you want to store a mould? Mine get used too often to store. I would think that if you had to store a mould, then maybe you have too many and need to send them to me for storage. LOL. BC

[Bad Water Bill]

Thanks. The before & after pictures on their web site are REALLY impressive. I notice they seem to use rotary tumblers only. Wonder if they work with vibratory tumblers?

Years ago I purchased a large vibratory tumbler for lapidary work. The vibrator worked faster polishing all types of the rocks so I got rid of the tumblers and have never looked back.

My brass loves the vibrator.