Ever mixed in Alox in the lube?

[docone31]

I am a wondering here. Has any one ever done anything with Alox in their lube? I am thinking on useing it with my C&B revolver and my R.E.A.L. castings.
How did you mix it if it was done?

[Hickok]

It wont work worth a hoot with BP in a cap and ball. Mix up some pure beeswax and Crisco about 50/50.

When NSSA shooters shoot smooth bore muskets, they knurl the balls and give them a coat of alox too make the balls somewhat tighter in the bore and they shoot better, as they are not allowed to patch the balls.

Alox will not help reduce BP fowling. Use only animal fats/tallow or plant based products when shooting BP.

[rodwha]

I've also been told that Alox just doesn't do the job properly for BP arms.

[docone31]

I was referring to mixing it into a batch of 55% beeswax, 45% Olive oil, some Marvel Mystery oil, and Crisco for stiffness on warm days.
That is my regular BP fare. I was wondering if adding that to the brew might make some difference. If not, oh well.

[Motor]

I've also been told that Alox just doesn't do the job properly for BP arms.

Not saying this isn't true but my limited experiance with A-Lox lubed 250gr REAL boolit in 50cal side lock has been pretty positive. I am shooting Pyrodex RS though, not BP.

[Hickok]

I was referring to mixing it into a batch of 55% beeswax, 45% Olive oil, some Marvel Mystery oil, and Crisco for stiffness on warm days.
That is my regular BP fare. I was wondering if adding that to the brew might make some difference. If not, oh well.

If it were me, I would add more beeswax, or drop back some on the olive oil. I do like olive oil with bp firearms.

You may already know, but Ballistol is an excellent bore cleaner and protective oil for bp firearms. It was designed for the German army to clean weapons using corrosive ammo. Also can be used as a wound disinfectant, preserves leather, protects metal and who knows what else.

[rodwha]

Lee told me that they've talked to people who have used it but didn't actually state what their experience was. But on the few forums I inquired on nearly everyone said it wasn't going to work on the fouling.

I was given a Lee resizing die for my .45's and wondered about the Alox. I've only used Gaotfeo's #1 lube on my pistol and rifle bullets, and wads. I like it, but not so much with the way I apply it. The excess I had from making wads was poured into a soap mold and then cut into small blocks. I used them like a crayon, but after a while the heat from my fingers makes it quite tacky. But it's not quite as much fun as it once was.

I'm not sure about pan lubing as I don't really want any lube on the base or along the undersized seating lip/band. I don't want it to contaminate my powder, though I suppose I could use a dry wad.

[bhuch5]

I shoot an Alox lubed .562 round ball without a patch in my .54 Sharon barrel underhammer (1x60 twist) with very good results and no leading. 90 gr fff goex, lubed felt wad and lead ball. Also use this same load in my Cabela's .54 hawken with chrome lined barrel. Its the only load so far that will group consistently in the Cabelas rifle (1x48 twist). A little unorthodox maybe but it works for me. Have some alox lubed 54 cal 300 gr REALs to try this weekend in both rifles . 557 dia I believe. (My three 54s all have oversize bores)
Bruce H

[Zouave 58]

The animal vs petroleum based lubricant argument has been going on for many, many years. The fact is that at BP velocities leading is usually not much of an issue and is well controlled with natural based lubes so why would you need a petroleum based wax that functions well under high pressure and high temperature? The problem with Alox or any other waterproof material with black powder is that it combines with the fouling to make it difficult to remove with water based cleaners. Years ago I had an original Sharps with a somewhat pitted bore that used to excessively lead. I found that Alox left a black tarry fouling that accumulated in the pits and in the bottom of the grooves and had to be removed with Hoppe's No.9. It was no advantage at all.

[Fly]

I really drought you are going to gain much adding Alox to a mix.But try it & let us know.
I,m just guessing.
Fly

[Fly]

Zouave you bring up a great point.When does leading start to be a problem in bullet speed?

Fly

[johnson1942]

i cant help it as i look at this post several times and i have to comment. before i used paperpatch in all my fast twist side locks and use cast bullets they all got a coating of alox lube. found it not diff. to use as i wiped between every shot. improved accracy and helps the bullet grip the bore. even mixed it with paraffin to thicken it. now i use no lube at all with paperpatch. i do have one roundball gun left and i cut my own pillow ticking cotton patches. i first lube them with alox and let the patches dry. then i lube them again with bore butter and let them dry. they never tear or burn through and the gun is very very accurate. took a deer once at 170 yards with it and the shot was where i wanted it to be. the gun is a good gun but the way i do patches for it really brings out the best for it. i have no experience with black powder pistols so cant comment their. i would never be with at leaste one bottle of alox in this house. i do shoot a 535 grain bore rider cast bullet once in a while in a 1/28 twist .50 i have. the base of the bullet is like a roundball so it is patched with a cloth patch. i lube the front of the bullet with alox and the patch is of course lubed with alox also. it a powerful tack driver at any range and easy to load. i have used real black with this combo with out any diff. again alox works for me.

[Tar Heel]

I use homemade lubricated wads between the powder and ball. Lubricant is homemade with beeswax and mutton tallow. Crisco causes fouling to buildup faster. You can purchase lubricated wads from Track of the Wolf if you don't shoot enough to warrant making your own.

Advantages Of Using Lubricated Wads Between The Powder & Ball In Revolver Chambers
1. They create a more efficient gas seal behind the ball.
2. The lubricant does not get blow off by previous shots.
3. They have consistent weight.
4. They compress the powder evenly and consistently.
5. They position the ball at the end of the chamber and provide consistent ball seating depths.
6. The lubricant does not gum up the action like traditional favored lubricant (Crisco) does.
7. They provide slightly higher projectile velocities even with reduced powder charges.
8. They increase the distance between the powder charge and the open mouth of the chamber. While this is an unproven argument, it should decrease the likelihood of an adjacent chamber discharge due to cylinder face flash.
9. They prevent propellant gas blow-by on the ball.
10. They provide consistent shot to shot velocities allowing for more accurate and tighter groups.
11. They prevent propellant grain entrapment between the ball and chamber wall.
12. They eliminate projectile base deformation due to high pressure gas.
13. Like in a shot shell, the provide buffering for the ball at shot start.

Attachment 128403

The formula for wax to tallow is 1:2 by weight. Use MUTTON tallow.

[Tar Heel]

Here are the fixings

Attachment 128405

The resultant wads
Attachment 128406

Attachment 128407

Attachment 128408

And the proof is in the pudding. 36 shots offhand at 25 yards.
Attachment 128409

[Tar Heel]

Instructions for wad making. Easy Peasy