So, in previous threads it became clear that regardless of whether you like the PatMarlins gas check maker or the other guy, they are both capable of making good gas checks. I went with PatMarlins for a 30 caliber maker and am happy with it. I was looking for accurate, repeatable results, not necessarily speed and that's exactly what I got. I like the two step process and am happy with my purchase. I am using .015 copper for the Lee 312-155-2R bullet.
I like mine. Does a great job.
Yes they do.
The PB (Plain-Base) checks made by a PM CheckMaker die have to be tried, they are just excellent and do open up a new life for old PB molds especially. I have to admit, for casting up for casual plinking when I am in a hurry (which is often these days) I buy and use cheap quickly-made checks made by other vendors equipment (1000 checks for the cost of 3 beers is attractive to old eyes). But for my competitions, I use the slower-made but-perfect PM checks. They win for me.
I use both, and will continue to - how fair is that Fox News? There's room for all here
was about to make a thread, but figured I'd post here to unload a bunch of questions .
how do they compare to the gator checks in terms of shape, dimensions, accuracy? do the .010 copper checks "bottlecap"?
Where's the best/cheapest place to buy rolls of (copper? brass? aluminum?)
what's the consensus on .014 Cu vs .014 Al ?
i got the checkmaker in my cart and Im trying to do more research before I pull the trigger on it. Trying to save a buck here and there, but more importantly be independent from buying them outright
Recycle, Reuse, Reload.
I have formed 110 alloy copper in .010 and .015 with the Patmarlins die and it does not bottlecap in 30 caliber. I buy my copper from McMaster-Carr.
Pop cans on a 175g pb do great from my 308 at about 1800 fps (16 inch barrel). No complaints here, well at least after I get the cans cut up proper lol. Lookin to get a 44 and 357 setup when I can.
I may have to spring for one of the actual GC style he makes. Worth it for 44 mag or 510 cal ya think?
What is the difference between the PB and reg GC again. I have his 35 PB I bought when he first started his GC
Size. The plain base have to go on full size boil it. The others fit the smaller gas check shank.
Just received my GC from Pat in 30 PB now to make little bottle caps bangbangbang
I have never used the Marlin but before I bought I watched the video and quite frankly at some point I have to look at the time spent and the Marlin was just too much effort for a single check.
I purchased a FreeChex III and it works great making a check in one stroke. Then got the Freechex IV and the captured design and heavy spring was even better, so if you want to make gas check I don't think you can do any better than Freechex.
However, I now question the need for gas checks at all if you powder coat. There is certainly no need for a gas check at handgun velocities and since we have now fired powder coated bullets over 3100 fps I am questioning the need for checks at all. The primary purposes for a gas check is; to provide a seal to stop blowby, protect the bullets base from gas erosion and provide a flat base for the cast bullet. Properly done the Polymer Jacket does all of these and more.
I obviously have several gas check molds, so I will continue to make checks, but I won't be purchasing any more GC molds.
I'll be curious if you can continue to fire PC boolits at those velocities without some sort of difficult to remove buildup. I have no personal experience shooting PC boolits but a lot of powder coating experience in general. Has anyone veer been able to state what sort of temperature the back of the boolit sees?
I have fired hundreds of PC rounds before cleaning and cleaning the barrel is a non-event. There is no build up on properly cured PC bullets, just the debris left from the combustion, which is easily cleaned.Originally Posted by 6622729
From what I understand, in a rifle cartridge temperature at the time of ignition can reach several thousand degrees. Obviously, this temperature could melt steel, but it doesn't because the duration is so short. All that is needed is an insulator on the base of the bullet to protect the lead alloy; a metal jacket, a gas check and a polymer jacket (PC) does this.
Since you are already familiar with PC I think once you try the process on bullets you will be hooked. The process is akin to turning a cast lead bullet into a jacketed bullet.
There lies the problem. I haven't seen a PC for boolit process that doesn't look like a mess to me. I tumble lube and sit the boolits up on their bases. I can't bear for them to dry laying random in a pile. Makes for a very non-uniform looking finish. I'd be the same way with PC. I'd have to fixture my 30 caliber flat base boolits and that'd have to be on their point. Haven't seen a technique that makes sense to me yet.
I am on the fence on the GC vs PC. I have enough checks to last me a while.
The PC I have used was from harbor fright, that being said, there is a difference in coatings, just as there is in a GC.
I do think PC has a place, I myself have not found it yet for what I require of a CB. IMHO I think you will see a design change for a PC bullet.
A couple of days ago I received a NOE HTC 309-153-SP 4 cavity PB Brass mold. This bullet design has no lube grooves. Since it will be loaded for a 30/06 I double powder coated the bullet by spraying first, doing a partial cure then tumble coating a second coat of clear powder. The first spray coat was very even and coated everything except the base. The second tumble coat increased the thickness of the jacket, since I will be loading full power loads, and covered the base. I guess we will see how well it works. I have considered spraying with the bullet nose in a retaining tray, which would leave an exposed lead point and cover the base.
Attachment 164936
So, why is this thread being hijacked? Make a new thread for the powder coating stuff and move on with it. This thread was initially about Pat Marlin's gas checks and makers. Now it has gone askew.
It is not hijacked as often is seen here, it obviously just a different form of a gas check and it appears to work nicely! -tj
Maybe I'm just a belt and suspenders guy but is there any benefit to putting a GC on a PC boolit?
Based on our testing there is no performance reason to gas check a coated handgun bullet and certainly no reason to gas check a coated plain base handgun bullet. As far as performing the duties of a gas check the polymer jacket does this just like any other jacket material. The only remaining question I have is there any accuracy benefit to having a completely flat and perpendicular base assuming a properly installed gas check. Since it will take an identical bullet design mold/molds one with PB and the other GC to prove this out we are not there yet. However most are going to find that the accuracy of the coated PB bullet is quite good and adequate for most especially taking into consideration one is making a jacketed bullet that does not cost $0.25+ each or a gas check that add $.03+ to the cost of every bullet, not to mention the additional time.
The only reason I continue to gas check is I have some old GC molds like the H&G #80 that puts out a beautiful bullet with a weight and design no other mold manufacturer makes, but this bullet gets coated also.
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| BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
| BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
| BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
| C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
| HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
| PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
| LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
| GC | Gas Check |
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