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Thread: what the heck? seating problems

  1. #1
    Boolit Bub
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    what the heck? seating problems

    Hello professors, Hope your having a good weekend.
    I stayed up late last night having fun doing the final loading of my cast 178gr boolits cast in my Lee 185gr mould.
    I set a bullet on the case and brought down the ram. I am getting an indentation ring on the loaded round?
    Here are my facts that I know.

    .308 rifle load.
    I cast with ww's and added 5% tin.
    I sized to .309 and .311 both same problem.
    Neck sized only my brass and it measeures .307 post sizing.
    I did a small case mouth expansion.
    Took apart the bullet seating die and cleaned it up. It had a little alox on it. Put it back together and had same problem.

    This is only my second time loading cast bullet ammo. First time I had NO problem like this.
    There is a slight chance I could have not added tin as I thought I did?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 0226112352.jpg  

  2. #2
    Boolit Master Rangefinder's Avatar
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    Any way you could get a better photo of what you're talking about? From what I can see in the photo, it actually looks like a paper patched bullet that hasn't been seated yet. Mold with number? photo of the bullet by itself?
    Guns have only two real enemies; Rust and Politicians...

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  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    Your image is a little fuzzy.ii'm guessing your talking about the seating stem leaving a mark on the top of the boolit. I often have to de-burr this stem because they are not made for a fat boolit. You might not be flaring enough and the extra pressure required to force the boolit into the case is causing the seater to mark the top of the boolit.

  4. #4
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    montana_charlie's Avatar
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    Provide a picture of a new bullet ready for loading, and one that bears the kind of 'damage' you want to avoid. Then we can see what you are talking about.
    CM
    Retired...TWICE. Now just raisin' cows and livin' on borrowed time.

  5. #5
    Boolit Bub
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    Quote Originally Posted by zomby woof View Post
    Your image is a little fuzzy.ii'm guessing your talking about the seating stem leaving a mark on the top of the boolit. I often have to de-burr this stem because they are not made for a fat boolit. You might not be flaring enough and the extra pressure required to force the boolit into the case is causing the seater to mark the top of the boolit.
    yes this is whats happening. I guess I shall continue. I am not awear of a "cowboy" style bullet seater for the .308 that holds the bullet differently for flatter tipped boolits.
    I tried flaring a little more and nothing changed.
    thanks

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Are you charging the case with enough powder to create a compressed charge? If so, that's going to create a lot of resistance to the boolit being seated.

    From what I can see, that's an odd looking boolit. I see what looks like a single lube groove just above the case mouth.Like Zomby Woof said, the image is fuzzy, but I don't see any lube grooves other than the one I mentioned.

    On a side bar, when I photograph for posting, I take a few shots at slightly different distances to make sure that at least one comes out sharp and clear. If you can rephoto, that would help.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master Lead Fred's Avatar
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    Lee Universal flaring tool ?
    I have sworn on the altar of GOD eternal hostility against every form of tyranny over the mind of man.
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    " Any law that is NOT constitutional is not a law" James Madison

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by toddx View Post
    yes this is whats happening. I guess I shall continue. I am not awear of a "cowboy" style bullet seater for the .308 that holds the bullet differently for flatter tipped boolits.
    I tried flaring a little more and nothing changed.
    thanks
    If you're using RCBS loading dies they have neck expanding dies for cast bullets and various style seating punches available.

  9. #9
    Boolit Bub
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    new photo.

    OK I got a real camera out this time.

    The Mould is a LEE # 90371 185gr double cavity, .312.
    You can see a slight ring around the tip of the loaded boolit. I can feel a ridge on the bullet.

    Also I need a cleaner way to evenly spread the ALox lube. Spreading them on wax paper as Lee suggest leaves them coated unevenly and with uneven build up on the side that lays on the wax paper. I have noted 45 45 10 and will try that but it seems the boolits need to be set up right for drying?

    I loaded 30 or so last week without this issue. I guess this happens from time to time with softer cast bullets?
    I hope my accuracy is not messed up.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC_0087.jpg  

  10. #10
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    white eagle's Avatar
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    I believe the ring you are referring to is caused by the seating stem inside the die
    I have made most of mine to be flat filled with lead or something to make the stem flush
    Hit em'hard
    hit em'often

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by white eagle View Post
    I believe the ring you are referring to is caused by the seating stem inside the die
    I have made most of mine to be flat filled with lead or something to make the stem flush
    I was considering flipping the seating die cone upside down so the flat part opposite end would touch the bullet instead of the seating die cone.
    Your idea is good or better.

  12. #12
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    Mk42gunner's Avatar
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    I use that boolit cast from straight ACWW and never had that much distortion of the boolit nose. For .308 Winchester loads I am using milsurp brass (LC 64) sized in RCBS full length die, flared with a .30 Carbine flaring die, seated with the standard RCBS seating die. Boolits are .311" diameter, I never measured the inside dia of the case.

    It looks like you have a combination of an extremely softr boolit and too musch resistance to seating it.

    I would recommend getting or making a lyman type M-die to expand the neck so you have less resistance when seating the boolit.

    RObert

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy
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    I still cant see ANY amount of case mouth flaring to let the bullet go in easily???? At that stage of seating I'd think SOME flare should still be apparent....?

  14. #14
    Boolit Bub
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sully View Post
    I still cant see ANY amount of case mouth flaring to let the bullet go in easily???? At that stage of seating I'd think SOME flare should still be apparent....?
    The pic you see is a loade round with a small case mouth expansion. I am going back through the brass and making them bigger. The indention has decreased greatly but is till there. The ring looks bigger than it is due to the ALox gathering around it.
    Thanks

  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy
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    Maybe a Lyman M die would help? What is the BHN of your boolits?

  16. #16
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    If your alloy (which is WAY over-tinned, by the way) hasn't had a chance to age a couple of weeks, then it might be too soft still to handle seating. The boolit ought to go into that .307" case neck sized .309" with no problems. .002" neck tension or a bit less is about right IME.

    If the deformation is caused by lube accumulation, try switching to 45/45/10 lube from the LLA, much easier to work with and no accumulation in the seating die. See the sticky by Recluse in the lube forum.

    Get yourself an "M" neck expander die in .30 caliber, it will ensure that the case neck is correctly sized to accept your cast boolits. It has a stepped spud like a pistol expander which flares, expands a large "starter" opening, and expands the remainder of the case neck to a couple thousandths under nominal for the caliber.

    Gear

    Gear

  17. #17
    Boolit Bub
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    I did not know about waiting a couple weeks to load them.
    I am supposing my BHN is 12 but I don't know.
    45 45 10 will be part of my next round of loading.
    If that does not solve it then the M die might have to be purchased.
    Thanks.

  18. #18
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    Todd, here's an example of age hardening: I cast some boolits with clip-on WW +1% tin that comes out to about 13.4 bhn after a month. Tested as soon as they cooled from casting, I got 8.5 bhn. The next day they were 10.0. After a week they were 12. After a month they has stabilized to around 13.4. It's basically a Logarithmic curve. Exact composition and method of cooling has a large effect on how long the final hardening process takes, but air-cooled wheel weights usually are ready to shoot in a couple of weeks.

    Gear

  19. #19
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    Remove the seating stem and mix up some JB Weld. Fill the stem with the JB and place a cast boolit nose in it after smearing on some oil to keep the boolit from sticking to the JB after the stuff hardens you will no longer have this problem.
    Marty-hiding out in the hills.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by mpmarty View Post
    Remove the seating stem and mix up some JB Weld. Fill the stem with the JB and place a cast boolit nose in it after smearing on some oil to keep the boolit from sticking to the JB after the stuff hardens you will no longer have this problem.
    You CAN use hot glue instead of JB Weld.
    The glue sets up faster, and it's removable.

    CM
    Retired...TWICE. Now just raisin' cows and livin' on borrowed time.

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BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
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LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
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