Homemade?

[Big Tom]

o.k. - will post it in the for sale section when I got a few more printed. Latest version is slightly larger and clamp on... rock solid on the rock chucker...

[Catshooter]

Big Tom,

Before you post in the For Sale forum, the site owner has changed the rules for it. You might want to read them. Just a heads up.

That looks like a far better design than what RCBS came up with.


Cat

[Big Tom]

Thanks Cat, yes, I don't think that I will ever be mass producing them, and I doubt it would be a big enough market to make me rich... Until I am done with my tinkering and have the final version, there are some prototypes here (not the nicest prints in the finest quality, but functioning perfectly fine and all better than the original ) and if somebody is interested in those, shoot me a personal message.

[NavyVet1959]

I was cruising Sally Ann's this morning, looking for pewter. Scored a bowl marked Steiff pewter for a buck. Then I had a brainstorm. Why wouldn't that electric ice cream freezer make a tumbler. 6 quart capacity. All for the great sum of $5.99 plus tax. I removed the guts and it still rotates. The trick will be keeping it assembled while it works on its side.

So, how well did this work out?

[NavyVet1959]

A lot of great ideas here. I just recently found the set of Forstner bits that I had bought a year or two ago and tried them out with a hand drill on a piece of scrap lumber. It looked nice enough that I decided to finally break down and get a table top drill press. I installed the press on the other side of my reloading bench since I figured it might be useful in conversion of cases from .223 to .300 AAC and .30-06 to 7.7x58. First project was a few reloading blocks from some short pieces of 2x6 that I had sitting around. These blocks are cut square (i.e. miter saw set for a length equal to the width of the 2x6, so approximately 5.5"). I alternated the holes on each row so to allow more wood thickness between the holes. Started by scribing a 1/2" grid on the board and then alternating the intersecting points so that there are 10 rows of 5 holes. Later, I drew out the pattern on a piece of paper and then put it over the board and used a small nail to tap a starting point for each of the holes in the loading block. It ends up taking 16 minutes to do a single block by this method (including cleaning up all the sawdust). It's nothing fancy, but it gives you a good excuse to buy that small set of Forstner bits from Harbor Freight. Each block ends up only costing about $0.21 if you buy a new 2x6 from Lowes. You can make about 17 of them from an 8' 2x6.



Turns out that one of the Forstner bits in the set is just the right size for the dies... Hmmm... Maybe time for a die holder?

[Gremlin460]

I would guess the 'spent' 32 cal case is neck down in the die so that it indicates off the ogive and not the tip.

The man wins!!!, the 32 case hangs nicely into the top of the seating die, the gauge sits on the primer in the old case. The gauge comes out with the release of the finger tight screw you can see in the picture.



I use the same gauge in this.. its my interpretation of the Cabine Tree BHN tester.

[ArrowJ]

I can definitely print a few more if somebody here is interested. Will play some more until I get very good results and then post some here.

Any interest in dropping the .stl file (or whatever format it is) into the public domain? I do not own a RC or a 3D printer, but it would be cool if there was a sticky for sharing files for reloading related 3D printed solutions. There must be other guys out there fixing other poorly designed aspects of our equipment using this method.

[Polar_Hunter]

https://youtu.be/u-jcEnnWWGw My new Power Case Trimmer

[kbstenberg]

For those el-cheapoes out there. Which I am one.
Tonight I was working on 2 old computer towers. I knew they had small 12 volt fans in them that I need to move heat around in my fish house. While digging out the fans I notice that the box they are located in also has an electrical outlet in it, an off/on switch and opening about the rite size to fit the internals for a PID. So now I have 2 new PID boxes.
As I was getting ready to through what was left. It hurt but I got to thinking. The outside metal surfaces were mostly flat and had pre-bent corners. O boy I have enough metal to build 2 of the boxes needed to make my own DIY case annealler's
So from 2 old computer towers I had parts for my fish house, 2 boxes with half of the parts for new PIDS, and all of the metal I need to build 2 anneallers.
An the wife gives me heat for all of the STUFF I bring home. Kevin

[3jimbo3]

o.k. - will post it in the for sale section when I got a few more printed. Latest version is slightly larger and clamp on... rock solid on the rock chucker...

I would be interested in one of these if you start producing any of them!

[hd09]

Here's my media separator copied one my dad made back in the 60s. Just a few cranks and all is good.

[Motor]

I made a few things since I started loading in 1985. One of my earliest reloading related item was to graft on a Lee auto-prime primer try to the primer feed tube on my RCBS Rock Chucker ll

This expanded the primer capacity from about 25 to well over a hundred. Like many home mods this was done because of necessity as much as convenience. I was priming LC Match and other military brass and the tight primer pockets were destroying my Lee auto-prime tools so I switched to priming on the press.

Motor

[Motor]

As my Grandfather would have said, "looks like a bought one. "
It would also work with a case kicker in place.

I'm obviously missing something. How do the primers get into the catcher? The slot is in the front of the ram.

I have an original RCBS case kicker. It don't think you could use the case kicker I have with that catcher on the press. Or maybe more accurately stated, I don't think the case kicker leaves enough room for the catcher to mount.

Motor

[jmorris]

Had my belt fed 308 out the other day and realized I had another homade reloading device to share.

there are slots to place the links and loose rounds then pull the handle down and it links them together.

[Big Tom]

If you go to www.thingiverse.com , you will find plenty of 3D-printable designs for reloading. There are also some facebook groups with similar interest and wider coverage than my RCBS catcher (they offer Lee, Dillon etc. products too).

Any interest in dropping the .stl file (or whatever format it is) into the public domain? I do not own a RC or a 3D printer, but it would be cool if there was a sticky for sharing files for reloading related 3D printed solutions. There must be other guys out there fixing other poorly designed aspects of our equipment using this method.

[Big Tom]

The primers on the Rock Chucker IV get pushed out to the back (unlike the earlier versions that kick them out in the front). They fall in the slot in the catcher and then fall through the channel into the tube. Send me a pic of the case kicker and I can let you know if it would work.

I'm obviously missing something. How do the primers get into the catcher? The slot is in the front of the ram.

I have an original RCBS case kicker. It don't think you could use the case kicker I have with that catcher on the press. Or maybe more accurately stated, I don't think the case kicker leaves enough room for the catcher to mount.

Motor

[3jimbo3]

I have one of BigTom's primer catchers on my Rockchucker press and it works beautiful. My ram is one that has the slot in front and back, and I only had one or two pop out the front out of the 250 223 cases I was working on. I can't complain about that, I just need something to stick in there to stop the few that stray down the wrong chute. BigTom maybe you could remedy that for us.

[Johnny_V]

I have one of BigTom's primer catchers on my Rockchucker press and it works beautiful. My ram is one that has the slot in front and back, and I only had one or two pop out the front out of the 250 223 cases I was working on. I can't complain about that, I just need something to stick in there to stop the few that stray down the wrong chute. BigTom maybe you could remedy that for us.

Go to McDonald's, get one of their straws, cut to length and place it in the primer slot. My Primer Guard uses a metal tube specifically for that purpose.

[Big Tom]

I have shared it on thingiverse.com Simply search for "RCBS Primercatcher" and happy printing...

Regarding the ones that pop out in the front, I think there is a group on facebook that has something 3D printable to fix it. Let me check, but the idea with the straw sounds a way easier solution to me...

Any interest in dropping the .stl file (or whatever format it is) into the public domain? I do not own a RC or a 3D printer, but it would be cool if there was a sticky for sharing files for reloading related 3D printed solutions. There must be other guys out there fixing other poorly designed aspects of our equipment using this method.

[mistermog]

I know this isnt going to be very exciting, but when you look up tuning a Hornady Lock n Load there are tips on using arbor shims under the subplate to smooth out the operation and everything.
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/41...ive_press.html

I made shims out of folded aluminum foil. Hey, dont laugh, it worked, infinitely adjustable (I think each sheet is .0005-.001 thick, somewhere) and worked great.