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Thread: Homemade?

  1. #781
    Boolit Master Johnny_V's Avatar
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    Although not "Homemade" just thought I'd share with the forum my new PowerArm vise by Garfield Engineering (bought out by Wilton). Found this at a Flea Market in Painesville, Ohio. The vise was rusted about half way and the Hydraulics also were stuck. After making a few tools to disassemble and re-assemble, I now have a vise that swivels and rotates and also fits into my Quick Change adapter on my reloading bench. Total out-of-pocket cost for the PowerArm and rebuild was $43.00.

    Here's the page from Wilton's site

    Current pricing on Amazon


    Click image for larger version. 

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    Your Feedback is appreciated
    Johnny V
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    CCW OH & PA

  2. #782
    Boolit Master max it's Avatar
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    I've done so much
    with so little
    for so long
    i feel like i could do anything with nothing.
    -said someone somewhere.
    (i like to make things that can be done by nightfall)

  3. #783
    Boolit Master
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    Just finished the arbor press.

  4. #784
    Boolit Master

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    Nice arbor press!

  5. #785
    Boolit Man
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    @ 1066.
    I am thinking to obtain a real black powder revolver, in 44lc can you explane please why there is the need for that press?
    I mean, there is a lever on the revolver it self, is the lever to frigile?
    Speed up the procces? put powder in plus wad plus boolit and then press?

    Thanks in advance.

  6. #786
    Boolit Master fred2892's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by parkerhale1200 View Post
    @ 1066.
    I am thinking to obtain a real black powder revolver, in 44lc can you explane please why there is the need for that press?
    I mean, there is a lever on the revolver it self, is the lever to frigile?
    Speed up the procces? put powder in plus wad plus boolit and then press?

    Thanks in advance.
    There are a few black powder revolvers that don’t have loading levers. The Uberti Cattleman and Colt Patterson come to mind. So you have to load the cylinders off the gun. I used to have a cattleman and still have a similar press to the one shown above.


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  7. #787
    Boolit Master dikman's Avatar
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    I have an Uberti 1858 Remington and eventually built a loading press. It does save wear and tear on the loading lever, but mainly I find it more convenient to load (as a bonus by removing the cylinder each time it reduces the fouling that inevitably occurs around the cylinder pin).

  8. #788
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by parkerhale1200 View Post
    @ 1066.
    I am thinking to obtain a real black powder revolver, in 44lc can you explane please why there is the need for that press?
    I mean, there is a lever on the revolver it self, is the lever to frigile?
    Speed up the procces? put powder in plus wad plus boolit and then press?

    Thanks in advance.
    Well, as Fred says, there are some C&B revolvers where you can't do without one, some where it's difficult to load due to large calibre and short barrels, then there's the mechanical strain on the frame, especially the brass frames. Even a soft lead ball that's a little on the large size takes some effort.

    Yes, it certainly speeds up loading, especially if you have a spare cylinder or two. I always think it gives more "feel" to, a slightly undersize ball is very easy to feel and can be used as a fouling shot etc.


    So, not always necessary but nice to have and use under some circumstances.

  9. #789
    Boolit Bub
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    I got one for my 58. My sausage fingers always seemed to cramp up using the attached lever and I didn't want to use an extension bar for fear I would end up bending the lever.
    Steve

  10. #790
    Boolit Master
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    Well, kinda home made -- gas check seater. Some of my gas checks at tight - some loose, so I adapted my little LEE "C" press to help me out. Turned a flat & tall piece to fit in the shell holder. Took a bolt with the die sized threads and turned the end flat & true. Screwed the bolt into the press where the die would go and installed the "new" shell holder piece. Basically gave me flat & parallel surfaces with the power of the press arm. When I get a troublesome gas check, I just reach over to the "C" press, which is mounted next to my Lyman 450, and apply a little and controllable force to seat it squarely. Just a couple quick taps and the checks snap very squarely in place. Rotate the check / boolit unit with a couple quick taps and they seat perfectly. Beats cramping up my old fingers.

  11. #791
    Boolit Master




    bruce drake's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1066 View Post
    Well, as Fred says, there are some C&B revolvers where you can't do without one, some where it's difficult to load due to large calibre and short barrels, then there's the mechanical strain on the frame, especially the brass frames. Even a soft lead ball that's a little on the large size takes some effort.

    Yes, it certainly speeds up loading, especially if you have a spare cylinder or two. I always think it gives more "feel" to, a slightly undersize ball is very easy to feel and can be used as a fouling shot etc.


    So, not always necessary but nice to have and use under some circumstances.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Like this...Click image for larger version. 

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    Here is the film frame showing the cylinder with loaded cartridges.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by bruce drake; 06-08-2018 at 11:45 AM.
    I Cast my Boolits, Therefore I am Happy.
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  12. #792
    Boolit Man fralic76's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 725 View Post
    Well, kinda home made -- gas check seater. Some of my gas checks at tight - some loose, so I adapted my little LEE "C" press to help me out. Turned a flat & tall piece to fit in the shell holder. Took a bolt with the die sized threads and turned the end flat & true. Screwed the bolt into the press where the die would go and installed the "new" shell holder piece. Basically gave me flat & parallel surfaces with the power of the press arm. When I get a troublesome gas check, I just reach over to the "C" press, which is mounted next to my Lyman 450, and apply a little and controllable force to seat it squarely. Just a couple quick taps and the checks snap very squarely in place. Rotate the check / boolit unit with a couple quick taps and they seat perfectly. Beats cramping up my old fingers.
    Can you post a couple pictures of your little LEE "C" press? I have friend who just picked up a mini metal lathe, I bet I could get him to make me 1 if I had a picture.

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  13. #793
    Boolit Master
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    fralic76 ----------- PM me your email address and I'll send a picture. I seem to be too stupid to post pictures here. I'm the worst tech guy you can imagine, but am capable of an old fashion email photo. Give me a little time as I will have to take a picture of the thing and it's in another building. Will try tomorrow. 725
    Last edited by 725; 06-08-2018 at 10:49 PM.

  14. #794
    Boolit Master

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    For two of my cast bullets, I opened up a Lyman and an RCBS sizing die. The Lyman I did with the polish method as it was .431" and I needed it .432". The push pin I left alone:



    This is the body after the slight polish job:



    For the RCBS, however, I opened up an RCBS .458" die to .460", but the polish method was not fast enough since the die was hardened. I put it on my lathe, and took several light cuts until I got close, then used the polish method to finish up. Man, even with the lathe the hardened die was tough!.
    Here is the original pin at .457":



    Once I got to .460", then I sanded and polished it down a bit:



    Original .457" on left, new 0.459" on right:



    Here is the new custom steel pin I made at .459":



    And the die, which ended up with a 0.0005" difference:





    These 45-70, 405gr hard cast were already sized to .460" using a Lee push through sizer but not lubed. Here is the result in the new opened die:






    Will

  15. #795
    Boolit Master
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    Well done. That's going to be a dinger, for sure.

  16. #796
    Boolit Master

    sparky45's Avatar
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    what kind of cutter did you use wquilles?

  17. #797
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by sparky45 View Post
    what kind of cutter did you use wquilles?
    For the boring of the hardened RCBS die, I used a solid carbide boring bar with inserts, on my PM 12x36 manual lathe.

  18. #798
    Boolit Master

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    I've got a PM 1022V and I'm venturing out to buy a set of threading bars with inserts.

  19. #799
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by sparky45 View Post
    I've got a PM 1022V and I'm venturing out to buy a set of threading bars with inserts.
    Nice!. I really like my PM lathe.

    Except for 1 or 2 DIY cutting tools in my lathe, 99.9% of the lathe and milling machine cutters are all insert-based. I got a very thin parting bar that I have been using with the same insert for a couple of years now, still cutting Titanium, mild steel, and Aluminum perfectly as I take my time and don't try going too fast (although I must admit I always use flood coolant in the lathe).

  20. #800
    Boolit Master
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    fralic76 Did you get my pictures?

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check