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Thread: Pan lube with Jakes moly, magma blue, Jakes purple ceresin possible?

  1. #1
    Boolit Man MSGO-Hammer's Avatar
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    Pan lube with Jakes moly, magma blue, Jakes purple ceresin possible?

    Is it possible to pan lube with Magma eng. blue lube, Jakes moly lube and Jakes purple ceresin lube?

    I got a couple sticks of each from a friend of mine. I want to try them out, but dont want to have to empty out my lyman 450 or my Star (waiting on star to come in!!)

    I want to try to pan lube about 50 .451 230 gr. RN and 50 .356 125 gr. RN with each lube. I have a couple muffin pans that will do great for this, just not sure if the lube will act right trying it this way.

    Anyone?
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  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy beladran's Avatar
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    I must be a alright friend lol I would try the moly first since it is the softest

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master

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    NO! Absolutely not! Sorry, had to say that. What would be the worse thing to happen if one of those lubes didn't work? You'd be out one stick of free lube? Your gun might get some leading? Do it then tell us about it!
    My Anchor is holding fast!

  4. #4
    Boolit Man MSGO-Hammer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by beladran View Post
    I must be a alright friend lol I would try the moly first since it is the softest
    Yeah, I guess you'll do!
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  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy beladran's Avatar
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    now get back to lube n my boolits! muhaha

  6. #6
    Boolit Man MSGO-Hammer's Avatar
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    Well, I tried the pan lubing with the above lubes. It took about 195 degrees to melt the lubes sufficiently to get a good fillup of the lube grooves. I could not push the boolits out of the cake once the cake was at room temp. Could not cut them out with a cake kutter either. The lubes were too hard and just cracked. I put the cake back in the oven, heated it up and then cut the boolits out of the cake while the cake was still a bit pliable. Seemed to come out ok. Gonna run them thru the lee sizer and then try a few for leading purposes.
    Which ever one I like best, I am gonna run with.
    BTW, my Star came in Friday. Just waitin on my dies from lathesmith, then I will be in business!!!

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  7. #7
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    hopefully you got a heater with the star.
    anyways a little vaseline will soften parrafin lubes pretty good.

  8. #8
    Boolit Man MSGO-Hammer's Avatar
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    I am building my own heater. I can't pay $100 for one when I can get paid to build one at work!! Plus, I like to make my own stuff if possible.
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  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    I've never had much luck with Jakes hard lubes, but their 50/50 alox beeswax would work for the majority of a person's needs. If you don't want to make your own then White Label lube is hard to beat with comparable prices as Jakes being at $1.65 a stick. At such a price it's hard to make it for less. WL lubes have a better assortment regarding hardness ranging from the soft 50/50 to the harder Carnauba Red.

    I agree on building yourself a homemade heater as it will be less expensive and just as efficient.

  10. #10
    Boolit Man MSGO-Hammer's Avatar
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    I plan on getting some of the carnuba red to try out one day. It's on my list.
    As far as the heater goes, even if it cost me more to build than to buy, I still like to be able to say I built it.
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  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    A heater for the star is as cheap as a piece of scrap metal and a thrift store or cheapo wal-mart iron. I found a piece of aluminum scrap for free and bought an iron for $7. The iron allows for a steady, controlled heat source that's easy to work with.

    Here's an example of what many of us have done:

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...ghlight=heater

  12. #12
    Boolit Man MSGO-Hammer's Avatar
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    I got a piece of 1/2" thick copper plate from work and drilled holes to bolt sizer to. I ordered a tubular heating element from Omega engineering. heater is capable of hitting 700 degrees with 120v. I got a potentiometer to regulate that, I should be able to get almost infinite heat control. Hopefully the heater element will be in tomorrow so I can finish it up and try out the sizer.
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  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    Your heater should serve you very well and at a fraction of the cost of a manufactured one. I've heard of people even taking the heating element from a wife's old cooking pan and drilling a hole in the base plate (1/2" copper plate in your situation) to the diameter of the heating element probe and the rest of the story is a nice working homemade heater with adjustable temp settings.

    This hobby is endless with "get-er-done" people.

  14. #14
    Boolit Man MSGO-Hammer's Avatar
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    Damn heater won't work. Can't get heat low enough. Can only get down to 150 degrees, won't power up less than that.
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  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    Well, if the copper plate is long enough to place an iron on it then you can still salvage things quite nicely. Also as I mentioned finding an heating element from an electric frying pan will work too and would only require a hole drilled into the copper base plate to have a snug fit on the probe end. Many times a person can pick up an old iron or electric frying pan at a thrift store for a few bucks. Down, but not out!!!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check