My BIL Found a 500 BFR with a 10" barrel in stainless. They want 800 for it. It looks in great shape. Fair price?
My BIL Found a 500 BFR with a 10" barrel in stainless. They want 800 for it. It looks in great shape. Fair price?
Crabo
Do not argue with idiots. They will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.
I found a NIB 500 BFR for $913.99 but its only 7 1/2" barrel on gunbroker.com 800 seems high for a used gun when a new one is only 113.99 more. This auction is FREE shipping also so only extra cost to you is your FFL dealer transfer fee.
Hope this helps.
"Life isn't like a box of chocolates...It's more like
a jar of jalapenos. What you do today, might burn
your *** tomorrow."
That's a lot for a used gun. I only paid $715 out the door for a new .475 and a friend got a new one on sale for $500.
MR has the new .500 JRH that uses the short cylinder and it is so accurate it will scare anything to death if you aim at it.
it's not a great price, but not the worst ever. I got mine for 750 new. I got a 475 new for 750 as well. The prices are lower if you look around. http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/Vie...Item=212731108 here is a new one 865. They are great guns, and super accurate. moreso than you are probably. That's true for me anyway.
Are you mormon? no. Are you catholic? no. Do you know what causes it? yes. and we like it.
500bfrman:How does that shoot?850 grain mold for 500 SW bfr
850 grains seems like too much of a good thing.....yikes! That bullet has to be nearly as long as the case!
I am planning on buying a BFR in .500 Smith later this year.
Semper Fidelis
Whitorth:That's good to know. Then we will get a good write-up on it. Make it sooner if you can.I am planning on buying a BFR in .500 Smith later this year.
I have a BFR in .500 S&W and IMO the biggest flaw is that the cylinder is TOO long for the cartridge. The bullet has to travel approximately an inch and a half and then we want it to start turning. My gun turns in outstanding accuracy with jacketed bullets but has given me problems with forcing cone leading in a few attempts with the 400 gr. RCBS sized at .501" from a straight WW alloy. I'm sure if I experimented more with bullet hardness, powders and velocity that a solution would be found but I lost interest. Planning to sell it to fund a .500 JRH which makes much more sense...again, in my opinion.
I have a BFR in 500 S&W 7.5", paid $650 OTD for it used in like new condition with a holster and box/papers.
It is a brute of a gun, very accurate and lots of fun. Mine really likes Missouri Bullet Company 400 grain 'Crusher' hard cast bullets.
Keep the screw that holds the ejector rod assembly tight. Mine became loose and sheared off. I was not happy about that. I think it is a common enough issue with Single Actions, I understand that happens to Ruger Blackhawks also.
It's a fun gun, and pretty much indestructable with proper care.
Here's my cat asleep beside the BFR. He likes to sleep in/on firearms, especially when I am working on them.
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wellfedirishman:I need to check mine. I was shooting the .475 the other day and maybe it got loose. Hey 44man. Maybe the trick is to use epoxy?Keep the screw that holds the ejector rod assembly tight. Mine became loose and sheared off.
It won't hurt and it is easy to remove the screw later. Just take a copper or brass rod the size of the screw head and heat it red hot on the end. Hold it on the screw a few seconds and the screw will come out. Works on Loc-Tite too.
If you Loc-Tite, put the gun in a padded vise or have someone hold it. Put a GOOD screwdriver in the head after you get it tight, put torque on the driver and tap the handle once with a SMALL hammer.
Another way is to use a screwdriver with a fatter handle.
Don't overdo it and break the screw.
44man:Like 44man, I glued my base on, the base and screws. I've never wanted to take it off, but if I do, I know what to do now.It won't hurt and it is easy to remove the screw later. Just take a copper or brass rod the size of the screw head and heat it red hot on the end. Hold it on the screw a few seconds and the screw will come out. Works on Loc-Tite too.
I've never had a failure to "hold" using Locktite 222MS on firearm screws/bolts, which can be easily removed with a good fitting screwdriver. Can't say the same for the blue stuff and I would only use the red if I meant for it to stay put for a lifetime.
I've been interested in a BFR revolver for a long time myself. I know several companies discourage the use of reloads, but BFR is especially out-spoken about it. Should I be concerned?
Quote:
I am sorry we do not offer any reloading information since we do not recommend reloading in any of our products. Any use of reloads (problems caused by them) null and void the warranty on any MRI product.
No, it is a lawyer thing. All gun makers know we all load our ammo. They do not want to be sued by some crackpot that blows up his gun with his super loads, gee, a case full of Bullseye ought to be about right!![]()
They have to protect themselves from the general population. Remember how many voted for Obama?
The BFR, Freedom and Ruger are the strongest guns ever made but none are idiot safe.
It probably is too much of a good thing. However, some of the larger 44 boolits (350) grains are nearly as long as the case. It could be the worst thing ever, or with a big hollow point it could be the greatest thing ever designed for the bfr or it could fall somewhere in between. we shall see.
Are you mormon? no. Are you catholic? no. Do you know what causes it? yes. and we like it.
| BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
| BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
| BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
| C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
| HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
| PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
| LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
| GC | Gas Check |