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Thread: New miracle bore break-in method

  1. #21
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    Molly's Avatar
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    >Molly, that is a very nice wishful thought to slug the bore before you buy the gun. Have you been able to do it? Personally, not knowing the mechanical skills or limitations of someone coming in off of the street with such a request, I would flat out deny it.

    Actually, I have. But I'll admit that the store owner knew me and my skills pretty well, and I was a good customer. The average guy might do better by asking to run a tight patch down the bore. Not as good, but you can still feel tight and loose spots.

    >Have you successfully obtained a three day return privilige on a new gun?

    Again, I have returned a new gun (unfired) that was defective. I once bought a M94 winchester in 30-30 whose action locked up solid when the lever was thrown the first time. The lever could not be fully closed or opened. It went straight back, and I took home another new gun.

    >If it came back in fired, it is a used gun.

    Actually, once sold at retail, it is (in most states) legally a used gun, whether it's been fired or not. But if not so in your area, simply make your offer contingent on the gun being unfired when returned. It's not hard to tell.

    >If it would be a quality issue, then the resolution would be with the manufacturer, unless the seller was an authorized repair station. Some of the Wisconsin deer seasons are for three days. Sort of like buying an expensive dress for the dance and returning it the day after.

    You've got a point there. But a three day warranty has expired at the end of a 3 day season, and the gun couldn't be returned anyhow. Or make it a two day return privilege, or a one day. Or 12 hours. But give the customer a chance to satisfy himself that what he bought was represented.

    I'm not trying to be a legal eagle here. Defective guns DO slip through the factories, and not by any fault of the final customer either. I once saw a new Ithica shotgun whose bore looked like it was rifled, because it hadn't been reamed and polished after being hammer forged. I've had a 7x57 Mauser brought into my shop whose clean, shiney bore would have taken a .308 bullet without any strain. (Deepest rifling you ever saw!) I've seen an American 32-20 whose bore slugged 0.321" instead of 0,312. I've seen a Taurus revolver returned from their authorized repair station whose cylinder was visibly out of allignment with the barrel.

    Not only that, but I've seen some of the worst rusted wrecks with rusty, pitted bores made to look almost new by some of the old fashioned 'horse traders'. They'd steam the dents out of the stock and rub them down with some oil, scrape and steel wool the outside metal and cold blue it. Then they'd steel wool the bore to remove the loose rust so they could bust a thermometer and coat the bore with mercury so that it would gleam like a new penny. The mercury would fill in the pitting, and it would look like a new gun. Sometimes, they'd swab the bore with black shoe polish wax, let it dry, then polish the bore with a few patches. Many a young shooter has been taken in by such tricks at flea markets and yard sales - not to mention a few gun stores!

    Nowadays, there's a legal concept that says that any article has to be as represented and suitable for the purpose for which it is sold. You can't sell a beatup sedan to some yokel who wants to compete in the Indy 500 with it, without incurring some serious liabilities. You can't sell butter that is 20% axle grease. The days of Caveat Emptor are long dead in the American legal system. The days of lemon laws and 'theft by deception' are here, and seem likely to stay. ANY customer has the right to a square deal. And that includes a decent bore on a brand new rifle!

    And if he does somehow get stuck, he has the right to a free and immediate refund or exchange from the dealer without a lot of 'restocking fee' nonsense. He shouldn't have to fight with the dealer or the manufacturer either: He doesn't have the leverage for it. He's only one person, and the big companies won't give a BLEEP. That job properly belongs to the dealer, who can say "Until this is fixed, you won't sell any more trash through my store! And I'll see to it that all the dealers in this end of the state learn about it too!" It's absolutely amazing how a statement like that will clean the wax out of the ears of a salesman, who will then understand perfectly.
    Regards,

    Molly

    "The remedy for evil men is not the abrogation of the rights of law abiding citizens. The remedy for evil men is the gallows." Thomas Jefferson

  2. #22
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    Badger makes some of the finest barrels made. Why not just use the break in procedure that they recommend ... http://www.badgerdefense.com/closed/procedure.pdf Besides, it's more fun to be shooting your rifle while breaking it in!
    Regards
    John

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by felix View Post
    With well moly-ied barrels, I would simply shoot "high antimony - low tin" boolits to my heart's content at max velocity commensurate with ZERO leading. Sooner or later the moly will go deeper into the pores (ideal) and the excess scraped away. Yes, antimony is an abrasive! ... felix
    I don't mean to hijack the thread but just wanted to thanks Felix for this tip. I would'a tried to scrub the moly out of the bore before shooting cast. I's the first time I EVER used cast boolits to remove condom fouling and the bore sparkles.
    Old enough to know better, young enough to do it anyway!

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  4. #24
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    Molly, you are absolutely right, and I agree wholeheartedly, Amen
    Regards, John

  5. #25
    Boolit Master zuke's Avatar
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    I found paper patched bullet's smoothed out my Pedersoli bore.

  6. #26
    Boolit Grand Master Char-Gar's Avatar
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    There are no miracles is the gun game. Short cuts and half measures quite often backfire. Just saying.....
    Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.

  7. #27
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    Chargar:

    My mileage varied on this miracle. The rifle is new and the slightly rough bore was improved very noticeably. I have since slugged the bore again to check the feel of driving a slug through the bore. It met noticeably less resistance and had a much smoother ride. It slugged at the same size. That is what I wanted. No tight spots were felt the first time I slugged the bore. I believe I succeeded in getting a better bore finish and likely this will make a difference in pressure lowering and velocity increase. The shoot one and clean routine will not be used at the range for a break-in of this new rifle because I believe it would be pointless after the polishing of the bore. That is the intent of the 'Miracle".

    I used the word "Miracle" in the post title to attract attention and get readers to give a look. I like to get my posts read and have responses with discussion. Thank you.

    The Hoppe's Bore Snake I used was new and not an easy pull through the bore. Those snakes have a short section of bronze bristle brush within their braid and this carried the polishing compound well into the rifling while twisting along with the rifling on each pass. This is a significant difference from running patches on a jag as the whole length of the snake also carries the polishing compound also and fits very snugly. I have to wrap the pull cord around a dowel section as a handle for drawing the snake through. If you haven't tried one of these snakes, they are terrific at the range between groups. I have since cleaned the compound off the snake with a rinse in de- greaser/detergent and it has cleaned and rinsed out like new.

    Gary

    Gary
    Last edited by onondaga; 01-27-2011 at 03:32 PM.

  8. #28
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    Gentlemen it seems you're all comparing apples and oranges!

    McMillan, Heart, Lilja and the rest of the super pros deliver unblued barrels.
    Once a barrel is blued it is done without the bore plugged and thats the big difference between benchrest guns and working guns.

    Rusted on the outside and rusted on the inside, and that inside rust is what needs to be smoothed out!

    So some breaking in on "mortal" guns are defenetly in order to remove the bluing in the rifling.

  9. #29
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    I won't comment on whether a CM barrel is blued on the inside or not, although I strongly think they would not be.

    From a custom barrel standpoint, very little needs to be done. The bores are lapped when you get them. There is always a small amount of tooling marks left from chambering, and that needs to be done.

    On a non-custom barrel, there are variances in bore/groove dimensions as well as tooling imperfections from rifling. Here, a proper lapping, and/or breakin can help. Breakin is nothing more than letting the bullet do the lapping. But you have to kep on top of the cleaning while breaking in to avoid a build-up of fouling.

    Some initial time spent shooting a round and cleaning then repeating until it quits fouling will mean a barrel that will give great service down the road.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by B R Shooter View Post
    I won't comment on whether a CM barrel is blued on the inside or not, although I strongly think they would not be.
    B R Shooter,

    Yes, CM barrels are blued on the inside. If they're bright, they've been polished. They can't be plugged when heating them to the bluing temp of 292 degrees. Parkerizing is done at around 150 degrees and the bores are plugged. Parkerizing would make a bore very rough. Bluing leaves the finish as it was before bluing. The outside of the barrel, if polished beforehand, remains polished after bluing. The same thing occurs inside the barrel. Yes, bluing is a form of rust but it occurs at a molecular level and isn't going to materially change the texture of the bore.

    (Wearing my flameproof clothes, waiting for the metallurgists to pitch in.)

    David
    Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Boy View Post
    Besides, it's more fun to be shooting your rifle while breaking it in!
    Ditto!

  12. #32
    Boolit Mold
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    Many Thanks Gregorious for links, I felt certain the member was from NY. I`ve just purchased a new Savage Axis in 6.5 creedmoor and will use this method to polish the barrel.

  13. #33
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    I save the end of a new barrel usually 3"-4"With this I can pour a lap. With this I can ream the shoulder and neck and throat into and use to set dies for optimum bump back. Every rifle should have this handy piece with it.

    Paper is abrasive and will polish and when wrapped around a lead bullet does a very good job. Look at a barrel thats fired a lot and the corners will be have a radius on them. They will also shoot a mild taper into the barrel over time.

    Lapping a barrel or polishing it it does remove metal and can create an over sized bore. with cast bullets you can cast bigger to an degree. With jacketed your stuck with whats available. I remember an article that described "Lapping " a barrel with jags and sand paper in I think an american rifleman. This like a jag and patch or bore snake dosnt get as even coverage in the corners or on exposed corners.

    I have smoothed throats and crowns with lapping compounds and polishes. With lead or brass lapps, I usually finish with simichrome, flitz or red rouge.

  14. #34
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I'm glad this thread was resurrected. Great tips in it.
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BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
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