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Thread: Top 10 Cast Boolits tips

  1. #21
    Boolit Master crabo's Avatar
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    1. I've learned that every gun can be different. What works well with one, may fail miserably with another.

    2. I've learned WD WWs are going to work in some guns, and the same velocity in another gun and caliber, may work better with 50/50 pb and ww that are air cooled.

    3. I've learned that I have got to quit buying molds for guns that I do not have.
    Crabo

    Do not argue with idiots. They will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charlie Sometimes View Post
    You've overlooked KROIL on your molds, and the Lee-menting process, too.

    Come on guys, he said CAST BOOLITS tips- I know there are nearly too many to mention, but you can do better than this!
    Per Ric's request, I just mentioned the ones I personally picked up HERE in 2010, the list of tips, tricks, and techniques I learned in the FIRST year I was here would easily limit-out the character count allowed in a single post. The number of such that can be found here would make a pretty heavy book even if condensed and organized into a single volume.

    Gear
    You can't fix Stupid, but you can occasionally head it off before it hurts something. --Stephen Adams

    To universalize one's experience and state it as the norm is always thin ice on which to stand.--CharGar

    Being able to separate the wheat from the chaff has always been a valuable skill in all of life's activities. --Bwana


  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    What I learned in 2010 is:
    1. I have more stuff than I can catalogue.
    2. A GE hot plate speeds up casting a bunch.
    3. Good tunes and a solitary afternoon adds up to a pile of boolits.
    4. If I need help there are about a thousand helpful persons ready to share information with a click of mouse.
    Thanks!
    Gerry

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    I've learned too much in the past year to even fully consider in one sitting, but then I'm rather new to this site and this hobby. If it was organized, it would be that book gear referred to.

    A few off the top of my head:
    • Kroil
    • mould preheat via hotplate
    • mould temperature prob
    • alloys: what each element brings to the table and their respective cons, and when to use each alloy
    • 1++ on the "Ace Hardware roof flashing material for gas checks"
    • Metplat info and associated optimal velocity ranges for best terminal performance
    • Lubing options and what each lube component brings to the table
    • Don't scrap the bottom of the pot with the wooden stick if you're bottom-pouring
    • What on earth leade is and other chamber stuff I have yet to quite comprehend
    • Use an expander die like a Lyman M with a custom sized insert to keep softer boolits from being swagged down.
    • Reading pressure with a micrometer
    • It can be really easy to start a GB, or there can be few if any takers
    • There's some great guys here that will let you pick your brain, and that's just a real joy for a novice like myself. I have over 100 PMs in my inbox, and they are a real treasure of information for me. I don't want to mention names, but a big thanks to you.


    The one thing I did not learn from this site but adopted is using stainless steel media and a Thumbler HighSpeed B with hot water and a schluck of dawn. Lead oxides go down the toilet and not into my home, and as a bonus my brass is quite purdy.


    Quote Originally Posted by noylj View Post
    9 I learned that a LOT of reloaders think that hard alloys are always best
    If you're referring to the reloaders here, my learning has been the opposite. I came across this site very early on in my discovery of all things boolit, and so was accustomed to seeing 1:30, 1:20, and 50/50 being commonly recommended alloys. I was in for a bit of a shock when I happened to notice basically no one commercial sells non-jword cartridges with anything other than hardcast.
    Last edited by Dannix; 01-23-2011 at 01:26 AM.

  5. #25
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    The Meplat size info was a good one, too.

    The only rule about alloy hardness/toughness is that it be suitable to the particular application. A 2500 fps 30-bore target rifle won't need the same alloy that a BP front-stuffer will shooting Minies, neither will a .45 ACP hollow point or a 35 Remington used for hunting elk.

    Gear

    Gear
    You can't fix Stupid, but you can occasionally head it off before it hurts something. --Stephen Adams

    To universalize one's experience and state it as the norm is always thin ice on which to stand.--CharGar

    Being able to separate the wheat from the chaff has always been a valuable skill in all of life's activities. --Bwana


  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by geargnasher View Post
    5. It is possible, although maybe not practical, to make boolits from zinc.
    jbunny is our resident zinc boolit master FYI. He's posted up some very interesting zinc-related material if you wish to peruse some.

    Quote Originally Posted by geargnasher View Post
    8. PID controllers solve the pot temperature swings and that makes more consistent boolit weights.
    I forgot about seeing this. I need to read up on it more. Thanks for mentioning it.

    Quote Originally Posted by geargnasher View Post
    9. Accurate Molds (dot) com is a boolit caster's dream come true.

    3. Carnauba wax in boolit lube can promote rust in the bore with certain powders.
    Could you elaborate on both?

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dannix View Post
    jbunny is our resident zinc boolit master FYI. He's posted up some very interesting zinc-related material if you wish to peruse some.
    Yes, been following his threads with interest for a while.
    I forgot about seeing this. I need to read up on it more. Thanks for mentioning it.
    Several good threads on it.

    Could you elaborate on both?
    Look here: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=101545. Completely custom-made moulds made just like you like them, to your design, just the size you want with the alloy you specify, made of aluminum, iron, or brass to the best quality standards of any mould I have ever seen, and shipped to your door in a couple of weeks. There are plenty of custom mould makers out there, but as long as Tom chooses to offer his services he's the only one I'll patronize. He ended a years-long and seemingly eternal frustration of trying to get a boolit mould that was "just right" for what I needed.

    I experienced some rusty bores after using Felix lube with stearic acid and a lot of carnauba wax (the Felix/WilJen recipe from the group buy last year). Since I have been using Felix lube (original) I found that just a patch-out after shooting is all I needed to do to preserve the "season" of the bore and was good for months in the safe. When I changed lubes I had the problem after shooting 748, but not as bad with 3031. Guns I've shot with other powders and the same lube haven't had this problem at all, so I did some tests on a saw blade and concluded that for some reason the lube with carnauba wax reacted with burned 748 and 3031 and flash-rusted. Regular Felix lube without carnauba had no issues, and it wasn't the stearic acid as far as I can tell. Carnauba Red did the same thing with the same two powders in my tests. I lost interest in the tests since I proved to myself what I needed to know (use Ed's Red after shooting!), but if you use a lube with Carnauba Wax in it you might watch for rust if you don't clean and oil your bores regularly.

    Gear
    You can't fix Stupid, but you can occasionally head it off before it hurts something. --Stephen Adams

    To universalize one's experience and state it as the norm is always thin ice on which to stand.--CharGar

    Being able to separate the wheat from the chaff has always been a valuable skill in all of life's activities. --Bwana


  8. #28
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    ""I experienced some rusty bores after using Felix lube with stearic acid and a lot of carnauba wax (the Felix/WilJen recipe from the group buy last year). ""

    HMMMM Very interesting!!!
    Good tip!!!

  9. #29
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    Dan, if you're going to snip, please snip ALL the pertinent data: It only did it with two powders both in the guns and in the tests, not with other guns or powders.

    Gear
    You can't fix Stupid, but you can occasionally head it off before it hurts something. --Stephen Adams

    To universalize one's experience and state it as the norm is always thin ice on which to stand.--CharGar

    Being able to separate the wheat from the chaff has always been a valuable skill in all of life's activities. --Bwana


  10. #30
    Boolit Master
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    It seems all the mould makers here have their own niche, and I'll make a note of 748 and 3031 with carnauba wax lubes, but yeah, Ed's Red after shooting. Thanks for the elaboration Gear!

    Quote Originally Posted by geargnasher View Post
    Look here: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=101545. Completely custom-made moulds made just like you like them, to your design, just the size you want with the alloy you specify, made of aluminum, iron, or brass to the best quality standards of any mould I have ever seen, and shipped to your door in a couple of weeks. There are plenty of custom mould makers out there, but as long as Tom chooses to offer his services he's the only one I'll patronize. He ended a years-long and seemingly eternal frustration of trying to get a boolit mould that was "just right" for what I needed.

    I experienced some rusty bores after using Felix lube with stearic acid and a lot of carnauba wax (the Felix/WilJen recipe from the group buy last year). Since I have been using Felix lube (original) I found that just a patch-out after shooting is all I needed to do to preserve the "season" of the bore and was good for months in the safe. When I changed lubes I had the problem after shooting 748, but not as bad with 3031. Guns I've shot with other powders and the same lube haven't had this problem at all, so I did some tests on a saw blade and concluded that for some reason the lube with carnauba wax reacted with burned 748 and 3031 and flash-rusted. Regular Felix lube without carnauba had no issues, and it wasn't the stearic acid as far as I can tell. Carnauba Red did the same thing with the same two powders in my tests. I lost interest in the tests since I proved to myself what I needed to know (use Ed's Red after shooting!), but if you use a lube with Carnauba Wax in it you might watch for rust if you don't clean and oil your bores regularly.

    Gear

  11. #31
    Boolit Master S.R.Custom's Avatar
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    Automatic transmission oil... is there anything it can't do?
    “If your only tool is a hammer, then all your problems start to look like people who need to be beaten with a hammer.”

  12. #32
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    gear
    Yes Sir your right, still very interesting. I wonder why? I thought powders were pretty much the same ingredients but different proportions and of course grain size and shape. What is different with those two and most likely others that also contain whatever that is.
    Also interesting is that Glen Larson sells lube with carnauba but all I have ever seen for his lube is praise. No warnings about rusting barrels with any powders. What is the difference there? Lots of people in fact using carnauba in thier own lube but this is the first time I have heard anything about it combining with certain types of powder to cause rust.
    It is very interesting and I would like to know why.

  13. #33
    Boolit Master
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    I use carnuba red exclusively. Have never used 3031 and only a bit of 748. I have never seen any rust in any of my barrels which are rarely cleaned at all.
    Interesting that it happened with just those powders. I too would be interested to know why.

    I also learned last year that the worst word to hear is "BEST". Is their really a best anything in most shooting situations? I think beat is in the eye of the beholder therefore it varies from person to person which means there is no universal best. Rant over.

  14. #34
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    I meant Simple Green is good to clean cases.
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  15. #35
    Boolit Master crabo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by crabo View Post
    1. I've learned that every gun can be different. What works well with one, may fail miserably with another.

    2. I've learned WD WWs are going to work in some guns, and the same velocity in another gun and caliber, may work better with 50/50 pb and ww that are air cooled.

    3. I've learned that I have got to quit buying molds for guns that I do not have.
    Except for #3, these were not learned this year.

    One that I just learned was that fillers can really help tighten up a group and cut deviations in half.
    Crabo

    Do not argue with idiots. They will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.

  16. #36
    Boolit Master



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    Collect and hoard lead.

  17. #37
    Boolit Master


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    45/45/10

  18. #38
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    Bullshop boolits & lube

  19. #39
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    Smile Good stuff, I hear.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bullshop View Post
    Bullshop boolits & lube
    I wonder how long that would take to pop up!
    I need to try that bullplate lube, someday.
    USMC 1980-1985

  20. #40
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    Pewter hunting for cheap tin is my #1. JPW is a close second

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check