Fly
PM sent.
Fly
PM sent.
While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..
Here is a link to a wood species density table
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wo...sity-d_40.html
It appears that several of the good gun charcoals are in the density range of 25-35.
Wally
Flashman, one thing you might try is looking for land that has been cleared and then neglected for a few years. Whatever tree pops up first will likely make good BP charcoal. I refer to them as weed trees. That's the way "Tree of Heaven" is here. I wouldn't be surprised if you have those there too. They are native to China, but seem to have found their way all over the world.
Wow ---field corn?
do you mean corn cobs sripped of seed ---or the whole cob ?( we call it dry maize)
those dudes 200 yrs ago certainly knew how to improvise charcoal materials
working on jacaranda 2 -4 inch chips ---one drum inside a bigger drum --
fire it up 2 moro --
many thanks --will fotograph the results -----post it here
regards F
We usually buy it shucked.
One of the posters, however, said his grand dad made bp out of the corn stalks in the field after harvest which probably contained corn cobs. Said it was the best he ever shot.
Dried field peas also been used successfully. But I would work with wood until you see what works. Then play around with the odd stuff
ok --- gracias ---
will try all softwoods ---
amazing !! corncobs !---genius --worth experimenting --said Frank Zappa---( necessity is the mother --etc)
Many of my works were purchased by Dallas /Fort Worth hunters ----long ago
great crowd ---Houston took a few for auction ---then came the big crash in 2008
goodbye income --hello pension !!
got a roaring fire around a small drum filled with softwood ---will let it burn for 24 hours--
Sure its the right track ---
thanks --- Flash -
Finally --8 hours cremating a sealed steel cylinder --packed with S American softwood---in a furnace --
I have charcoal!!! my own hard work ---listening to experts
Paid off ----
but the proof is in the final mix /compressed pucks
( made SMALL 5 ton puck moulder /die
from a Ford truck rear shock --dismantled -valve removed -de oiled
_ chrome shaft has nice sturdy steel piston /and end caps prise off easily
see fotos
ok
now for a blast shield !
will see how it goes
most grateful for all the great advice ---POSTING fotos separate --just now
--F-
Flash,
That is looking good. Can't wait to see how it comes out. After my first batch, I was surprised at how soft and fragile this softwood charcoal is. I'm used to very hard hardwood charcoal.
Thankyou ----lucky first time --this charcoal is a bit softer /crumbles ---but burns very hot in BBQ ---
So its really genuine charcoal --not ash as I assumed --delighted
making more from another softwood ---Indian Toona tree --( type of light mahogany imported circa 1900)
many other very light trees here ---
but local Zululand- wood is all hard /very heavy ----steer clear of them --
5 -6 hrs burning yields a great reactive charcoal ! worth all the sweat---
many thanks for the help ---maybe now I will get GP that fires first time!!
F
exciting ---milling the charcoal flakes into fine powder for later mixing with saltpetre& S---
-
I finally got to the range with the 44 magnum shells loaded with 20 grains of the homemade BP. Shot at 25 yards off hand they grouped great. About 2 inches center to center for a nine shot group.
When I shot 15 grains at 15 yards they went more or less to point of aim. At 25 yards and 20 grains the drop was about 6 inches from point of aim. So back to the drawing board.
The guy at the next bench came over to ask me if that was black powder I was shooting. He noticed all the smoke.
I'm going to try a thin wad instead of the corn meal and see just how much powder I can get in the shell.
Any other suggestions?
Last edited by Avenger442; 08-07-2016 at 11:52 PM. Reason: spelling
While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..
I like the wads. I think they help remove fouling. I coat mine with mink oil past. I just use
the stuff from Wal Greens for water proofing shoes. It seems to work as good as the stuff
Track of the Wolf.
Fly
Was cleaning out the range bag today and realized that I had used cases primed with standard pistol primers instead of the magnum primers that I was using in the cases for BP. Now I have to go back and load 20 gn. again to have a fair comparison with the 25 yard to the 15 yard shots. It may be that the standard primers were not hot enough to give me the pressure I had with the magnums.
I'll use any excuse to shoot some more.
While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..
I have pretty much settled on 31gr. of powder and the NOE 200gr. black powder design bullet for my 44 mag shooting. I use them in a Marlin 1894, mostly for pistol caliber levergun silhouette matches. Shoots great, much better than smokeless and no problem running 50 rounds through it without having to wipe. The same thing, dropped to 28gr, works in my Ruger 44 spl revolver.
-Nobade
Thanks Nobade.
Will try 31 gr and a thin wad in my 44 Ruger. If it works there, will go to the 1894 Winchester. I haven't tested my home made against the Elephant that I have on hand but believe mine may not be as good. May make up some cartridges of both to see. My goal is to get to something I can make should powder supplies become unavailable. I've got enough salt peter, sulfur and charcoal to last a few years. And of course there is always the fun.
Are you using magnum primers or standard and what brand?
While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..
The thought behind using magnum primers was that it might increase pressure for the load as they will with smokeless. I usually read up on things before I start doing them. I had read somewhere that magnum primers were sometimes used for BP loads. I don't remember the reason but guessed it was the pressure thing. So, that was where I started.
While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..
WOW !!
you guys --certainly were serious !
after making the softwood charcoal---painstakingly --using Argentinian white cedar & jacaranda
milled a sample batch of GP --bit soggy ---7 hrs milling
dried a tablespoonful ---in the sun --all day
pulverised the dry cake in a mortar
(was really sceptical ---nothing works well these days --)
made a 4 inch long narrow pile
struck a flint to test ---had serious doubts !
WOOSH ---!!! what a FLASH !! all gone in a millisecond --GOOD HEAVENS --IT WORKED !!
Scary stuff ---never seen anything like it ---
The Texan / Gobade / F LY ------- and all my teachers --were spot on --
I am shattered at the flash speed /heat given off --blinding ---beard gone --nice singe !
taken a while to calm those nerves ---no way do I load 50 grains--of this explosive in that 8 mm barrel!
better start with a very small charge 20 grains --or less
Most grateful to all the great advice --success came with following expert advice on this forum
forever grateful
( I wont dare try to compress into cakes ---this stuff is really scary!!)--
Will see how it fires a rough lead slug ---report /fotos will follow----FLASHMAN
) ---
I was pretty confident after reading some of your last few posts that your problem might be poor charcoal, but in any case SERIOUS CONGRATULATIONS are in order!
You are wise to be cautious of energetic compounds in general. But I'm WAAAY more wary of brewing big batches than pressing into pucks. Grinding the pucks into usable grain sizes is also a place to use extreme caution.
I don't know the metric system very well, but I consider 8 ounces to one pound to be plenty enough to wreck havoc...should a mishap occur.
Personal Protection Equipment is much less effective when larger quantities "let go." If you have an anvil, strike a small sample with a hammer and see how much impact abuse is actually required to start the reaction. Static electricity is a matter of some concern, although it takes more than you might think to set it off. I actually own a CVA Electra 50 cal BP Rifle and I read how difficult it was for CVA to develop a spark hot enough to consistently set off BP.
Respect it, even fear it perhaps....but mostly just keep to smaller batch quantities and use your head. And enjoy your new skills!
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |