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Thread: My homemade black powder

  1. #101
    Boolit Master EOD3's Avatar
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    Absolutely nothing compared to what it can do for your living arrangements...

    IMHO: (and my opinion is uniquely good in this case) making NG without a complete understanding of what your doing AND why you're doing it as well as the exact correct equipment is a one way ticket to "Red Goo"

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by EOD3 View Post
    Absolutely nothing compared to what it can do for your living arrangements...

    IMHO: (and my opinion is uniquely good in this case) making NG without a complete understanding of what your doing AND why you're doing it as well as the exact correct equipment is a one way ticket to "Red Goo"
    IMHO you are 100% correct. And my opinion comes from the fact that if red fumes start appearing, I can't run 30,000 fps.

    FWIW If I ever had a great need to make some, the equipment would be remotely controlled. I'd stay far enough away to ponder what went wrong & decide if I wanted to buy new equipment.

  3. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by waksupi View Post

    A simple cheap binder is egg whites.
    That's a great idea! Cheap & available. I'm going to try that tonite or tomorrow. I've been working on primer compounds. My experience is that it is critical to have a binder for the type of non corrosives that I'm making & testing.

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by atom73 View Post
    Burn them as pellets just like pyrodex pellets. They take a little more work to make but will be more convenient than loose powder. Just trying stuff out.
    If you think that they are burning to slow, you can make them with a hole in the center.

    There is free software for helping you calculate out the changes that different size holes & hole shape makes.

  5. #105
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    perotter,

    When you gonna give a detailed tutorial on primer compounds?

    Matt

  6. #106
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    I've posted some on corrosives over at reloaderz.com. There is a reference to a non corrosive, but that one really only works in berdan primers. The other site that I have posted more at declared primer making a verboten topic.

    It will be a little while before I will post anything about my current mixes that work in boxer primers. Because it is "green" it may have a commercial value & is - to the best of my knowledge - patentable. I have to make some a few more basic tests. Iif they prove good than I'll file the for a patent. A month or 2 should do it.

    For those members who live outside the US, you can buy red phosphorous. Then making your own non corrosives is easy. A nitrate(lead, barium, potassium, etc) & red phosphorous will do. The US army used a barium nitrate/red phosphorous mix right after WW2. In the US, one can buy rp if they own a corp & get 6 corps to give a them a reference(really).

    FWIW, these mixes are simple and don't need any type of special equipment.

  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by perotter View Post
    I've posted some on corrosives over at reloaderz.com. There is a reference to a non corrosive, but that one really only works in berdan primers. The other site that I have posted more at declared primer making a verboten topic.

    It will be a little while before I will post anything about my current mixes that work in boxer primers. Because it is "green" it may have a commercial value & is - to the best of my knowledge - patentable. I have to make some a few more basic tests. Iif they prove good than I'll file the for a patent. A month or 2 should do it.

    For those members who live outside the US, you can buy red phosphorous. Then making your own non corrosives is easy. A nitrate(lead, barium, potassium, etc) & red phosphorous will do. The US army used a barium nitrate/red phosphorous mix right after WW2. In the US, one can buy rp if they own a corp & get 6 corps to give a them a reference(really).

    FWIW, these mixes are simple and don't need any type of special equipment.
    well i know here in canada you cant find red phosphorous hell you cant even get saltpeter

  8. #108
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    So I decided to post a quick how to for making charcoal for those who haven't done it.
    You will need; a metal tin (like a cookie tin, an old popcorn tin, etc) that has a tight lid and your wife wont miss. Punch a hole or two in the lid with a screwdriver. The heated wood releases gasses that will vent out of these holes.



    Start with freshly cut, green willow. Strip the bark, and make sure they will fit in your tin. Pack in tightly.




    Next, build a fire, get a good bed of coals going, place the tin packed with your willow in the center of the fire and build up wood around it.



    As the wood inside heats, it will off gas water and other components from the wood leaving behind only pure charcoal. The vents will flame up once the gasses get hot enough, if you look close you can see two flames coming out of the vents. Let the fire burn with the tin in until these flames go out. That signals the end of the off gassing and the only constituent left behind will be charcoal. If you leave it in too long the charcoal will begin to burn. Take the tin out, leave the lid on till it's cool. Once it is cool, open the lid (if you open it when it's too hot, the oxygen from the open air will ignite the superheated charcoal). You can now grind your proceeds into dust. I use an old meat grinder, screen the powder, regrind the larger screenings in a mortar and pestle. Use as needed.




    Enjoy.
    Mike

  9. #109
    Boolit Master EOD3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by perotter View Post
    That's a great idea! Cheap & available. I'm going to try that tonite or tomorrow. I've been working on primer compounds. My experience is that it is critical to have a binder for the type of non corrosives that I'm making & testing.
    As in impact/pinch ignition primer compound? The federales can be somewhat troublesome in some circumstances.

  10. #110
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    Thumbs down You mean make MODERN powder?

    Quote Originally Posted by shotman View Post
    hey charlie wonder if nitro gylcerine mixed in the black powder would make a bigger bang. nitro is easy and fun to make BIG exploding targets. . a 12ga shotgun shell full will make a BIG bang and a 12in X 6indeep hole in the ground
    You have tried that, too?

    That is what is added to modern double based powders, IIRC.
    If I want those, then I will BUY them from a factory. I am NOT messing with NG, or TNT, for that matter.
    I watched them make it on and episode of GUNSMOKE once- that wagon never made it to the mine! That is all I needed to see.
    USMC 1980-1985

  11. #111
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    Cool Add the hole

    Quote Originally Posted by perotter View Post
    If you think that they are burning to slow, you can make them with a hole in the center.

    There is free software for helping you calculate out the changes that different size holes & hole shape makes.
    That is why Pyrodex puts the hole in them, IIRC. More efficient burn, with better surface area to burn on.
    USMC 1980-1985

  12. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by EOD3 View Post
    As in impact/pinch ignition primer compound? The federales can be somewhat troublesome in some circumstances.
    I'm in the US not Mexico so the federales aren't around. In the US it is legal for your own use. I talked to both the ATF & the DEA about it to make sure that I hadn't misread the law. The DEA because some chems that can be used in primers are on there "list" & I wanted to make sure that it was ok for me to buy them.

  13. #113
    Boolit Master

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    I like that using the meat grinder grinding the charcoal.

  14. #114
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    What about an old blender for the charcoal?

    Matt

  15. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt3357 View Post
    What about an old blender for the charcoal?

    Matt
    Charcoal "dust" and un-sealed electric motors do not get along well. Vacuum cleaners are worse.

  16. #116
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    ooo good point, should have known better, I have lit dust on fire many times and work in the appliance motor industry, I'll just chalk it up to a brain fart. What else could one use to grind up the charcoal?

    Matt

  17. #117
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    Blender, or some sort of Miracle Chopper, is what I was thinking, too.
    They make those with lids that seal pretty good now.

    Bash it with a hammer, to reduce size, and then ball mill?
    USMC 1980-1985

  18. #118
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    A ball mill could definitely be doable. Could work for adding graphite to my homemade shot too and some brass tumbling too. Would the ball mill break up the charcoal chunks?

    Matt

  19. #119
    Boolit Master



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    EVENTUALLY.
    That is why I said pound it with a hammer first.
    USMC 1980-1985

  20. #120
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    My meat grinder makes pretty quick work of it. Of that whole batch I got about a cup and a half of screenings that had to be ran in my mortar and pestle. I tell you guys, its really great to have a sounding board to bounce ideas around. I started this project thinking I was a little odd for wanting to do it, glad to know I'm not the only one...

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check