Nanuk,
Scienceforyou.net has KNO3 for $7 an LB. If you have pure K and pure N you cannot just mix them, first of all pure K is a metal (how are you storing it, it cant come into contact with water) and it is usually very expensive. Next, pure N is a gas.... dont know how you would mix them. You need KNO3, you can get it at the previously stated website or even just looking on ebay. There is a lot of chemistry behind why you should just buy it rather than making it. What did you mean by you can get pure K and N? You may mean something else but what you gave was the chemical symbols for elemental potassium (K) which is a soft and very reactive metal, and Nitrogen (N) which is a gas. I have never used stump remover to make BP so I cant comment on how it works, I have always used pure KNO3 purchased from a pyro supplier.
Mike
atom73:
by pure, I mean something like 46-0-0 and 0-0-60 fertilizer... the rep said it is pure as only nitrogen and potassium were the included products.
so that is why I was wondering about mixing some granular together, filtering, and dehydrating.
I agree it is stupid that no one carries these anymore. nothing makes sense anymore.
atom73: remember, I"m in Canada.... things are out of control here!
Just curious if anyone has chronoed or group tested their powder yet.
Bob
GUNFIRE! The sound of Freedom!
Heck, I'm still trying to get around to making a batch!
I've got a new job and they are keeping me busy through the week, and too tired to get much "hobby" stuff done after all else is said and done at weeks end.
I would like to see chrono results- more motivation for those of us that are slacking!
USMC 1980-1985
Glad you found a job Charlie. I have been been up to my butt in alligators for a change and haven't made a batch yet either. It should slow down a little this month and maybe I'll get a chance to make some charcoal and order some sulfur.
Bob
GUNFIRE! The sound of Freedom!
Yes I have.I just got back from AZ where I shot at the range with none pressed
powder & it grouped as good as the pressed.I did not chrono this powder but have in the past on the pressed "cornded" with my 50 cal.
I plan on buying a chrono this week so I can test this 54 cal.I will post some pic's
tomorrow if I get the chance.
Fly
I finally tried making my own BP. This is something that I had sworn off due to the potential danger, but it was an idea in the back of my mind that just would not let go. I have a degree in chemistry and worked in industry for a few years in the lab, so it was not an outrageous risk, I figured. I found Herr Ulrich Bretscher's website to be of profound help and a source of great technical information (http://www.musketeer.ch/blackpowder/recipe.html). His information is firsthand and well-researched. I made a batch of BP using his procedures and it went quite well. The BP shot well in my 1860 Colt C&B, although the shots hit well below the usual point of impact when GOEX is used. This is no doubt because the density ratio of my homemade BP to GOEX is 0.86. Because the volume of the chambers of the cylinder is a fixed volume, a higher density powder will give more power. That said, the homemade BP shot well and accurately with no more fouling than the commercial powders. I am sold on it! Is this because my homemade stuff is better -- no, but rather it is just plain fun and satisfying to make my own quality BP!
There is always satisfaction in anything you can do yourself. Also makes the end result much more satisfying.
I built my own house, not because I wanted to but the situation got to the point that I had to. Never thought that I was capable of such an undertaking but 20 years later it still brings a smile when I'm kicked back in my easyboy and I look around and think I did this myself.
Bob
GUNFIRE! The sound of Freedom!
Sharps if you corned "pressed " that powder it would have the same density.I do corn
the powder for my cap & ball revolers for that reason.
For my muzzle loaders I just use a good binder to whole the grains together & weigh
my loads & put into pvc viles I made.That way I don't worry about how much more powder
volume on a powder measure.
I just made up a new batch using eastern cedar that show's alot of promise.
When I get my chrono I will post some results.I have so far black willow, silver maple
& now eastern cedar to test.
Fly
Fly
That will be interesting to see, I've got tons of cedar.
Bob
GUNFIRE! The sound of Freedom!
Well Boz I can tell you this.You can get a pretty good idea how fast a powder is by this.
After you mill it then wet & granulate it with a kitchen strainer
of about 12 mesh with a good binder & let it dry over night.
Then pour a line of it about 4" long on a ole board.Light it with a long match & it should
almost go poof, with out burning down the row.
I don't know how clear that is but it will give you a idea of how fast the powder is.From
what I can see from this cedar, is it's dam fast.If black willow is faster I can't tell by just
looking.
If you have some eastern cedar make some charcoal, for you won't be disappointed.
Be sure to debark it.I took my chain saw & cut all the branches & knots off first.Then
a good sharp hunting knife will peel that bark like a banana.
Fly
Fly,
I just got through compressing a moist batch in a 6 ton press in a tuna can with an oak plug in the top (no steel to spark). Of course I used eye protection and a 55 gallon plastic barrel over the press to contain any highly unlikely mishap. After a few hours the "hockey puck" was removed. It is currently drying. In a couple of days of air drying I will give corning it a try. Will screen door screen work OK for this?
I shot my first batch of homemade BP in my 1859 Sharps carbine yesterday. It shot to point of aim compared to the standard load of 1.5 FG Swiss and the fouling really did not seem to be much, if any, worse. Wahoo!
Last edited by 1874Sharps; 05-07-2011 at 09:32 PM.
Man a Sharps!I would give all most anything for a 45-70.But the $$$$ is still holding me back.
Sharps it may take longer than a few days.More like a week in spingtime to dry.Now when it is dry
I put my pucks in a metal container & crush them with a old baseball bat.
Then screen them.What does not past threw beat it a little more.What is to fine, just wet
it & repeat the process.
You can see why I don,t like corning.It's alot more work.But with cap & ball if you want
max loads, it's just part of it.
But it is fun making this stuff on your own.I read Muskenteer when I first started & he inspired me.But do try ball milling your powder, for it will make it sooooo much faster.Please
beleave me on that.
Fly
Fly,
I found Musteteer's website (Ulrich Bretscher) to be fantastic as well. He helped put me over the hump about three weeks ago when I made my first batch. Thanks for the hints on the making of dense, corned BP. I will let this second batch "hockey puck" dry for a couple of weeks before attempting to corn it. Is screen door type screen OK for corning BP? I used my vibrating tumbler with some 73 caliber lead balls to mill the mixture, which was a heck of alot easier than a mortar and pestle! Any further help on the fine points of BP would be much appreciated!
Well I never used a vibrating tumbler to grind powder.My first ball mill was a $30 Harbor
Freight rock tumbler with lead balls.
If your vibrating tumbler is grinding the powder as fine as flour then I guess nothing wrong
I can see with doing it like that.
It sounds like you got it down very well.Let us know how it does.
What type of charcoal are you using?That can make a huge differance also.
Fly
Fly,
I used willow to make the charcoal since it was available for free and is commonly used for this purpose. I have cottonwood trees on the property and may try that in the future.
big surprize from you!!
Champkins,
Ich verstehe nicht was Sie bedeuten.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |