My homemade black powder

[Longwood]

Thanks charlie.
I still have to figure out a few things.
I don't think I will need all that many balls. I am not very worried about efficiency. With the lifters/paddles, with a proper rotation speed, the mill should pulverize materiel quite well. Mill manufacturers don't use them much because they wear out so fast. Mine will be simple and easily replaced.
Rotation speed can be modified fairly easily and numerous ways.
For tires, to add friction, I went by my friends shop and got an old but still in pretty good shape timing belt and if I can't make that work, I figure a 'V' belt or some of the high pressure hose I have may work better.
I can also put 3/4" inside dia. hose on the shafts if need be.
I am only going to use the big mill for charcoal and ingredient grinding when they are not mixed in dangerous formula's.
It will most likely end up mostly sitting around like many of my other bright ideas.
I have one of the little harbor freight tumblers for making small batches of powder.

I wish I was good at math and figuring problems.

My motor turns 1500 rpm. The motor pulley has 4 3/4" of belt travel, my 10" pulley has 31".
Bare, as they are now, the shafts have 2 1/2" and the bucket rim is a total of 38 inches in circumference or belt travel.

I have a water leak to concentrate on for now and will try to figure it later if some kind soul does not do it for me.
My first try at figuring it came to 15+ rpm but I doubt I am right.

[Fly]

Well you do what you think is best.The biggest problem I have found after
20 years of making this stuff, is people not using enough media in there
drum.

But it's your deal, just trying to help my friend.
Fly

[Charlie Sometimes]

I just thought I would just mention that fact - rubber and plastic are prone to static build up. Think Van Degraff (sp?) Generator.

Run a Google search for the calculations you need. I am not currently at home and do not have access to my computer where that information is stored that I usually use, or I would do the calculations for you. (Will be home Tuesday evening though.) There are several sites that you can plug in your data and get the reduction data needed to get the right speed output.

Several years ago, I built a speed reduction assembly for a band saw I had so I could cut either metal or wood on it, as needed. I set it to utilize the few sheave and v-belt components that I had on hand to avoid additional expenses and it worked pretty good using the formulas I found on the internet. I used to dig out my reference books and do it on paper, but why bother with that now? The internet is just too handy in that regard.

[waksupi]

Rather than messing with gear rations, why not a rheostat from Radio Shack for five bucks?

[Longwood]

A copper grounding brush should handle the static. I will add two for insurance if I use wood to build the frame.
The tumbler drums I have now, are rubber lined, or plastic, and I am thinking all of the contacts with the metal frame keep static from building.
The big one has 10" drum with 3/4" wide steel tires that run right on the shafts. I can see that at one time, someone put some electrical tape on the shafts but it has long ago disappeared where the tires run.
I think the speed will be a bit slow, as it is now. I bought some wheels too machine to any size I need in order to get a good speed.
The Murray Scott rock tumbler that I borrowed, runs at 20 rpm and the motor turns at 1725. The ones I scrounged run at 1500. and the bucket is 7 inches farther around.

If it won't grind charcoal,,,

How do you guys like the brass polisher I am building?

[Fly]

Static is not a problem, if you guy's take the time to read this post from the start,
that has already been covered!Geezzzzzzzzzzzzz

Fly

[Charlie Sometimes]

There are now 607 posts, and I have been out of circulation on this site for the better part of the last year or so, so I am not very up-to-date with everything this thread currently includes. I do remember static being discussed, but wasn't sure if it were this thread or another on the same topic (there are several.) so I thought it prudent to add the safety tip for that reason.

When I get around to givng this process a try I will re-read the entire thread, and I am not looking forward to that since it is so long now, but that is another very prudent action. I want to try it and not blow myself up. LOL Things are still not smoothed out enough for me to give it a shot yet. But I expect good results once I do as there is some very good directions and tips in this thread.

[Lee]

Rheostat will not work with (most?) AC motors??????

[Fly]

Just so this does not come up again check this video out.This guy came up with the battery
CVA ignition Muzzle loader.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nm6PEdBcQ6s

Fly

[Boz330]

Just so this does not come up again check this video out.This guy came up with the battery
CVA ignition Muzzle loader.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nm6PEdBcQ6s

Fly

Maybe one of the Mods could put this up as a sticky otherwise it will probably get lost in the thread.

Bob

[Longwood]

I have a feeling that I am going to do my own static test with pulverized charcoal, and black powder with no graphite, to satisfy my own feeble brain.
I do not trust poorly controlled or performed tests where people want the outcome to be in their favor.

[Fly]

I have already done that my friend.I have a tig welder that puts out a high frequency current
& i use no graphite in my powder.Just like the video no igintion, but knock your self out.

Fly

[Longwood]

I have already done that my friend.I have a tig welder that puts out a high frequency current
& i use no graphite in my powder.Just like the video no igintion, but knock your self out.

Fly

Thanks.
I will take your advise.

[brushhippie]

Thats pretty cool Fly!

[Longwood]

I have already done that my friend.I have a tig welder that puts out a high frequency current
& i use no graphite in my powder.Just like the video no igintion, but knock your self out.

Fly

I wonder how he did this.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZKp3_NIAKRk

The part about High frequency spark has ne confused.

[zxcvbob]

Has anyone tried using cottonwood for making charcoal?

The city is trimming some giant cottonwood trees about a half a mile from my house and piling up the wood on the curb. I got a truckload of it today and barely made a dent in the pile. I'm planning to use it as firewood this winter, but I know cottonwood is even lower in BTU's per cord than silver maple, catalpa, willow, or basswood. (I would never pay for cottonwood firewood, but I'll take it for free even if I have to cut it up) If the BTU's are that low, maybe it makes good BP charcoal?

[Longwood]

Has anyone tried using cottonwood for making charcoal?

The city is trimming some giant cottonwood trees about a half a mile from my house and piling up the wood on the curb. I got a truckload of it today and barely made a dent in the pile. I'm planning to use it as firewood this winter, but I know cottonwood is even lower in BTU's per cord than silver maple, catalpa, willow, or basswood. (I would never pay for cottonwood firewood, but I'll take it for free even if I have to cut it up) If the BTU's are that low, maybe it makes good BP charcoal?

One person here said it burn pretty dirty. It seems that a lot of powder has been made with it.
Probably better for fireworks than gun powder.
Willow and white maple are highly recommended and white cedar or white pine is acceptable for us people that have to go a long distance to find willow.

[Longwood]

My cheap mill is coming along nicely. I am not sure it is necessary, but I am wrapping the drum with belts made from old Toyota V6 timing belts. Onewass not long enough so I have another one on my list.
I can see that it will work better if I drive each roller like Scott Murray and others sometimes do. I thought I had a set of sheaves here that matched but no luck.
I bought a store bought, one gallon drum if this one does not do the job.
The base was cheap and easy to make with simple tools and will last for many years.
I am pretty sure I can make a ball mill, slash polisher, for less than $100, even if I buy a drum.

[AR-15 Cowboy]

How much will the drum weigh when completed, and what weights are you loading into it? I think the overall weight will determine how much traction you need from the belts.

[Longwood]

How much will the drum weigh when completed, and what weights are you loading into it? I think the overall weight will determine how much traction you need from the belts.

The heavier they are, the better the narrow steel to steel drums seemed to to work.
With one timing belt on one end only, mine did not want to turn unless I turned the other belt by hand.
I am of to town to get another belt and should have it running by this eveming if it does not get too ho out.