My homemade black powder

[Fly]

Most window screen is 20 mesh. I really don't think 20 or 18 mesh makes much difference in performance.

Fly

[indian joe]

BTW.
What mesh size do you prefer to screen your powder ?
You said Window screen.
But that varies greatly.
And do you grind the corse stuff after initial screening to get the fine stuff out ?

Lags
I start with this stuff pretty gooey - dough balls that you can knead like plasticine - I squash them back through an 8 mesh screen into a pan and then make the balls over again - push it through a 8 or 12 mesh strainer onto a 2 foot x4 foot window screen setup on a portable drying table - have an old bed sheet on the table and a 2"x4" box edge around the table so stuff cant dribble overboard (dont want too much excitement in the workshop later) then as it dries I will work it through the window screen and collect it on the sheet below (still soft at this point) that screen is 16mesh size but the wires are very fine (its just aluminium insect screen) - theres always some big stuff that dried while you werent looking or somehow slipped throught the net - soon as that stuff on the bottom sheet is dry enough to work I screen it for size then dry it properly later - screen it again before I put it away. I reckon screen it every chance you get and every step along the way - saves some work busting up hard dried stuff.

my screen sizes - this suits the guns we have and I would alter the split to suit - and my screens are stuff I cobbled up from around the place - vegetable strainers etc. I had 8mesh and 40mesh stainless sheet leftover from farm jobs years ago and 100mesh nylon cloth same. (have since found can buy screen sheet of fleabay for a few bucks)
So these are what I do and how I call it
Fg is 12 to 16 mesh
FFg is 16 to 24 mesh
FFFg is 24 to 40 mesh
FFFFg is 40 to 100mesh
Proper powder (pressed pucks and ground etc) I label different just so I know whats in there without opening the can Ctg No1, 2, 3, instead of Fg, FFg, FFFg
I agree with you 100% - the satisfaction level (fun) from doing this is a big deal
Have not spent much money but my farm scrap heap / junk accumulation has been useful.

[Vettepilot]

@Vettepilot.
Because of these recent restrictions , I have not ventured to far from home.
But finding some local Willow trees or even Trees of Heaven is on the top over my list.
I recently had a friend move to Yuma Az.
I will ask him if either of those trees grow down there, since that part of the state is not the same as it is in central Az.
He is also a BP shooter , but does not make his own BP ,Yet

He might possibly find some down there... It's a lot greener down around that part of the Colorado River than it is up here around Havasu. It's like the surface of Mars around here; super desolate. Plus if I did find any here, might end up with an arrow in my back!! (CRIT, Colorado River Indian Tribe land.)

My research indicates there should be Black Willow and Tree of Heaven both near the river around Cottonwood and northwest towards Jerome. That's fairly close for you once ya get out of the darn Phoenix traffic... I'll get over that way one of these days... If not on a "walk-about", then for sure once I get moved over to Ash Fork to live. Right at the moment I'm caring for my terminally ill sister and don't get much time for myself, but if I do find some good wood, I'll let you know. Let me know if you do.

Thanks,
Vettepilot

[LAGS]

All my window screening came from my years in construction and doing remodel on my house.
It is all Fiberglass screen material.
I have not seen Metal window screen around here for years.
I use metal cooking strainers to screen my powder and they vary in mesh sizes from 16 to 24.
But for screening the dried powder for grading , I use a set of screen seperators similar to what we used to test soil at the construction sites for testing dust control.
They are 10, 20, 30, 40, 50 and a 60 mesh trays.
So per your listing of grading sizes, what passes thru my 20 but won't pass thru my 30 should be 2fg.
And what passes thru my 30 but doesn't pass thru my 40 screen should be my 3fg.
I can work with that.
It isn't exact but at least it is consistent for the shooting that I do.

[Fly]

Don,t know how much window screen vary. I only shoot 3FFFg for the most part. What I did when I set up my window way back then. I tried 3fffg Goex
powder to see what screen it would pass threw. It went threw metal window screen & I made a sifting screen for it. That was many years back. That was
then & what out there now ????? (wink). Keep us informed.

Fly

[Froogal]

All my window screening came from my years in construction and doing remodel on my house.
It is all Fiberglass screen material.
I have not seen Metal window screen around here for years.
I use metal cooking strainers to screen my powder and they vary in mesh sizes from 16 to 24.
But for screening the dried powder for grading , I use a set of screen seperators similar to what we used to test soil at the construction sites for testing dust control.
They are 10, 20, 30, 40, 50 and a 60 mesh trays.
So per your listing of grading sizes, what passes thru my 20 but won't pass thru my 30 should be 2fg.
And what passes thru my 30 but doesn't pass thru my 40 screen should be my 3fg.
I can work with that.
It isn't exact but at least it is consistent for the shooting that I do.

Metal window screen is readily available around here. The plastic stuff, or fiberglass stuff has pretty much been phased out because grasshoppers like to eat it.

[indian joe]

All my window screening came from my years in construction and doing remodel on my house.
It is all Fiberglass screen material.
I have not seen Metal window screen around here for years.
I use metal cooking strainers to screen my powder and they vary in mesh sizes from 16 to 24.
But for screening the dried powder for grading , I use a set of screen seperators similar to what we used to test soil at the construction sites for testing dust control.
They are 10, 20, 30, 40, 50 and a 60 mesh trays.
So per your listing of grading sizes, what passes thru my 20 but won't pass thru my 30 should be 2fg.
And what passes thru my 30 but doesn't pass thru my 40 screen should be my 3fg.
I can work with that.
It isn't exact but at least it is consistent for the shooting that I do.

Those sizes I quoted are just my take on it and they vary a bit from official numbers - to me 20 to 30 would look a bit fine for FFG but its proly close to specs. I dont think we have to stick close to the rules on this just do what suits us best
I use those cooking strainers for grading the dry powder
if we need mostly cannon and Fg I would screen that through my 8 mesh and skip the window screen but if that stuff dries hard its a devil of a job getting it smaller. I would call 8 to 12 mesh cannon (or regrind it) and 12 to 16 Fg.
if we lookin for mostly FFFg then I use the window screen and we get a good split say 2/3FFFg to 1/3FFg - I dont get as much mill dust and FFFFg with screened as I get doing pucks

[LAGS]

I agree with you on getting more Fine powder like 4Fg when you grind Pucks.
But that isn't an issue.
I usually dampen that powder and press it thru a screen , and let it dry out for Re grading.
That screened powder doesn't seem as durable as other screened powder , probably because it doesn't have any Dextrin in it.
But it burns great , but I don't think it will last in long term storage with out turning back into finer powder than what it was originally graded for.

[indian joe]

I agree with you on getting more Fine powder like 4Fg when you grind Pucks.
But that isn't an issue.
I usually dampen that powder and press it thru a screen , and let it dry out for Re grading.
That screened powder doesn't seem as durable as other screened powder , probably because it doesn't have any Dextrin in it.
But it burns great , but I don't think it will last in long term storage with out turning back into finer powder than what it was originally graded for.

The first batch of dextrin I made I used it at 5% - must not have cooked it enough.! the second lot I just did the same (5%) but when I came to screen that powder it was like black glue! I ended up milling a whole bunch more meal then blending it in the mill to get the dexrin down to 2% - that was a bit of an education!

[LAGS]

My home cooked Dextrin seems to work good.
I stick with 2 percent and it seems to work fine.
I was always afraid that if I went with a higher percentage over what other members recommended , that it could effect the burn rate of the powder.
This thread has been great.
And has saved me tons of time playing with trying to re invent the wheel , or build a better mouse trap.
I think that 600 years ago , the Chinese used kitchen strainers to make their powder.
Seems like almost all kitchen strainers are made in China.

[Fly]

I have always used 5% dextrin in making screen powder. I cook the corn starch 425 degrees till it turns a golden brown then pull it from the oven. I also
put it in when ball milling. Some guys don't, but I feel it blends in much better. Works for me.

Fly

[LAGS]

Thanks.
I will try running my Dextrin thru my Ball Mill.

[LAGS]

Speaking of Ball Mills.
I think I am going to try casting up a bunch of .600 balls out of the culled out Zinc Wheel Weights that I have , and use those in my Ball Mill rather than the Monotype balls I have been using.
The balls will be harder , still won't spark , but will be slightly lighter than the lead balls.
Any thoughts on this ?
I don't have a cannon any more.
So I got to use up this Zinc for more than casting drilling fixtures.

[Fly]

How much lighter is zinc Lags? Never messed with any that I can remember.

Fly

[dondiego]

Speaking of Ball Mills.
I think I am going to try casting up a bunch of .600 balls out of the culled out Zinc Wheel Weights that I have , and use those in my Ball Mill rather than the Monotype balls I have been using.
The balls will be harder , still won't spark , but will be slightly lighter than the lead balls.
Any thoughts on this ?
I don't have a cannon any more.
So I got to use up this Zinc for more than casting drilling fixtures.

I would be interested in hearing about the results of using the zinc balls as compared to hard lead.

[LAGS]

The Zinc is about 10 to 15 percent lighter than lead.
But it is a lot harder.
The only issue is with trying to cast Zinc.
It melts at a higher temperature , and seems to initially cool much faster.
So you have to use the mold a lot hotter , and cut the sprue off as soon as the Zinc is poured.
Otherwise the Cutter won't cut off the sprue.
I am one of these people that doesn't let anything go to waste.
The Zinc weights get used for something.
Mostly I cast them into blocks to use as non maring vice blocks or drilling jigs for using on my drill press.
But Hay , if I can use them in the Ball Mill , and not worry about lead dust coming off the lead balls into the air or into my powder , it is worth a shot.
I use to have a cannon that was about 1" bore.
The Zinc balls or conicals worked great.
And because of the size of the balls , casting them out of lead got expensive.
Heck , the Zinc wheel weights I got for free.
Zinc doesn't cast as nice as lead.
But for what I do with it works out fine.
You won't need perfectly round balls to Mill powder

[Vettepilot]

The Zinc is about 10 to 15 percent lighter than lead.
But it is a lot harder.
The only issue is with trying to cast Zinc.
It melts at a higher temperature , and seems to initially cool much faster.
So you have to use the mold a lot hotter , and cut the sprue off as soon as the Zinc is poured.
Otherwise the Cutter won't cut off the sprue.
I am one of these people that doesn't let anything go to waste.
The Zinc weights get used for something.
Mostly I cast them into blocks to use as non maring vice blocks or drilling jigs for using on my drill press.
But Hay , if I can use them in the Ball Mill , and not worry about lead dust coming off the lead balls into the air or into my powder , it is worth a shot.
I use to have a cannon that was about 1" bore.
The Zinc balls or conicals worked great.
And because of the size of the balls , casting them out of lead got expensive.
Heck , the Zinc wheel weights I got for free.
Zinc doesn't cast as nice as lead.
But for what I do with it works out fine.
You won't need perfectly round balls to Mill powder

Ooohh... now this is an interesting idea, and thanks!! I have a bunch of 1/2" x 1/2" copper pipe cut up, and have been fretting about "waisting" my limited supply of wheel weight lead to fill them. It's going to take a fair amount of material to do it! (There's been reports in this thread that these make excellent ball mill media".) But casting/filling them with zinc? Now there's an idea!!

Everyone remember; don't mix your pots and utensils used with zinc with anything you want to use for lead. Speaking of which, I have an old pan I can use for zinc, but I"ll need to come up with a ladle.

Cool, and thanks again!

Vettepilot

[LAGS]

That is a very good idea to use copper tubing to cast your Zinc for your tumbler.
It saves a lot of issues I was having with the heat of the mold and trying to cut off the sprue.
This is why the forum is so great.
One stupid idea , and a question to others gets very productive input and alternative suggestions.
Don't worry about melting Zinc in your lead pot.
The amont of residual Zinc that remains in your pot is not enough to worry about.
That is unless you use that pot for PURE Lead castings.
It will be no different than casting lead alloys , then casting pure lead balls.
There will always be some residual contamination, but not enough to worry about.
But because of the heat required to cast Zinc a seperate pot might be a good idea.
It saves stress on the heating element on your casting pot.
One suggestion,
Pre heat your copper tubing sleeves before casting into them.
Then they will bond and the core won't fall out.

[Vettepilot]

Good idea. I have an aluminum block I drilled blind holes in to hold the 1/2" tubes. I will put it on a hotplate or old clothing iron or something.

Vettepilot

[Vettepilot]

Note: Use a tubing cutter instead of a hack saw or chop saw to cut your tubing. And lean on the cutter adjustment as you do it. This creates a "curl" at each cut that will help hold the zinc or lead in. It's a bit harder and time consuming to cut them that way, but it makes them nice, and with no burrs to clean up. I did mine while watching TV in the evening.

Vettepilot