Titan ReloadingRotoMetals2Graf & SonsStainLess Steel Media
Lee PrecisionMidSouth Shooters SupplyADvertise hereInline Fabrication

Page 2 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
Results 21 to 40 of 88

Thread: Removing Stuck Wooden Dowel and Soft Lead Sinker from a barrel

  1. #21
    Boolit Master Rockydog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Central WI
    Posts
    445
    I snapped a nipple pick off in the flash hole of my Mossberg ML shotgun barrel. The breech plug is welded in and not removable. It sat on my bench for 2 years while I stared at it trying to figure out a solution. Didn't want to drill it out, bits that were strong enough were all too large compared to the flash hole. Took it to a machinest. He was afraid to tackle it. Then one day the light went on. I took it out to the garage, poured about 6" of Auto Transmission Fluid in the barrel, and seated a 7/16" wooden dowel in a plastic ML sabot. I stood it on a plank, pushed the sabot down until it touched the oil and rapped it with a 3 pound hammer. One swift blow drove the snapped off portion of the pick right out backward, hydraulically. My inspiration? A thread on a gun site (can't remember which one) about hydraulically decapping Berdan primers. RD
    A wise and frugal government, which shall leave men free to regulate their own pursuits of industry and improvement, and shall not take from the mouth of labor the bread it has earned - this is the sum of good government.

    Thomas Jefferson Author of the Declaration of Independence and 3rd President of the USA

  2. #22
    Boolit Man Fly-guy's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    oklahoma
    Posts
    81
    Slugging the barrel?? I usually use a Winchester large pistol primer, about 10 grains of Unique and a shovel LOL. HEE HEE HEE
    The beatings will continue until moral improves and just because you are paranoid doesn't mean that "they" are not out to get you.


  3. #23
    Boolit Master

    alamogunr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    3,024
    Several years ago there was an article in The Fouling Shot by Ed Wosika(sp?) on making what he called "impact throat castings". He included sizes of steel rods for most common bore sizes.

    I have noticed in this thread and most others of a similar bent, that steel is avoided to the extreme. How can steel rods harm a steel barrel if it is only used once or twice at most, and the end is deburred or chamfered?

    I agree that brass is most unlikely to harm a barrel but if the rod fits the barrel(not snugly), I don't think the barrel will be harmed. I don't have a bore scope to verify this.

    I once used a brass rod that was somewhat smaller than the bore to drive a soft lead slug through a revolver barrel. The rod partially penetrated the slug and stuck it tight in the bore. The rod came out with a quick pull but the slug was stuck fast. A short length of wooden dowell managed to get it out without further problems. That is when I decided to get steel drill rods in the sizes that Ed recommended. Cost was much below what brass would have cost.

    John
    W.TN

  4. #24
    Boolit Master



    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Alturas, California...where the west still lives!
    Posts
    1,941
    Just my quick thought........when slugging I use a 3' length of 1/4" BRONZE rod obtained from the local welding supply. Much tougher than brass, yet just as gentle to the bore.

    I usually start a slug with a 6" bronze piece, somewhat like a muzzle loader starting rod, tap the slug down an inch or so then switch to the 36" rod and just pound the slug through. Never have a problem.

    These rods are for brazing (no coating) and readily available. They make good cleaning rods too.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master

    MtGun44's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    eastern Kansas- suburb of KC
    Posts
    15,029
    I always use a steel rod with a .25 ACP case stuck on the end to protect the
    bore, and a few rings of electrical tape along the length.

    Using wooden dowels is really asking for trouble, I can't imagine anyone doing
    it if they are properly aware of the risk.

    Bill
    Last edited by MtGun44; 01-06-2011 at 02:39 PM.
    If it was easy, anybody could do it.

  6. #26
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    67
    Pull a bullet from a case and shoot the dowel out?... I may be a little younger than you and willing to take more chances

  7. #27
    Moderator Emeritus


    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    SW Montana
    Posts
    9,502
    I use a gas check between the rod and the sinker. It gives a base to the sinker and a firm driver to the rod.
    [The Montana Gianni] Front sight and squeeze

  8. #28
    Boolit Master



    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Alturas, California...where the west still lives!
    Posts
    1,941
    old_haidouk.........please don't do that. Get a copy of Hatcher's notebook and examine the chapter on removing barrel obstructions to see why that is a BAD idea.

  9. #29
    Boolit Master georgewxxx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    South Dakota
    Posts
    431
    Quote Originally Posted by 3006guns View Post
    old_haidouk.........please don't do that. Get a copy of Hatcher's notebook and examine the chapter on removing barrel obstructions to see why that is a BAD idea.
    Google does it again.

    http://books.google.com/books?id=yES...page&q&f=false
    N.R.A. Life Member

  10. #30
    Boolit Master Von Gruff's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    South Otago, New Zealand
    Posts
    1,240
    Quote Originally Posted by MT Gianni View Post
    I use a gas check between the rod and the sinker. It gives a base to the sinker and a firm driver to the rod.
    Now thats a good tip. Will store that one away.

    Von Gruff.
    Von Gruff.

    Exodus 20:1-17

    Acts 4:10-12

  11. #31
    Boolit Master Baron von Trollwhack's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Northern Kentucky
    Posts
    1,773
    Isn't it amazing?

    Even toward the end of tales of self inflicted woe, one poster would even think of shooting it out because of perhaps being younger and more willing to take chances.

    DARWIN WAS RIGHT.

    BvT
    Every lawbreaker we allow into our nation, or tolerate in our citizen population leads to the further escalation of law breaking of all kinds and acceptance of evil.
    Since almost all aspects of our cultural existence are LIBERAL in most states, this means that the nation is on a trajectory to dissolution by the burden of toleration and acceptance of LAWBREAKING as a norm, a trajectory back to the dark ages of history.

    BvT

  12. #32
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Lovettsville, VA
    Posts
    534
    I quit banging stuff down the bore. Using the slugs from LBT now. Well worth the money.

  13. #33
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Nelson, New Zealand
    Posts
    37
    Quote Originally Posted by 3006guns View Post
    old_haidouk.........please don't do that. Get a copy of Hatcher's notebook and examine the chapter on removing barrel obstructions to see why that is a BAD idea.
    As with all things, a little judicious caution when working with firearms is called for. I have removed many an obstruction from barrels by "shooting it out" but not just by pulling a bullet and firing. Measure the depth of the obstruction from the muzzle and load a primer only in the case. Fire this and measure if any progress is made. If not load a primer and a starter of fast shotgun powder, say 5grs for 30-06 sized case and fire vertically (outside of course). Again measure for progress if obstruction is not blown out at this stage. If there is progress of the obstruction up the barrel repeat previous steps until clear.

    I have never had to go beyond 8grs powder to clear obstructions too tight for driving with a brass rod. Because pressure is low the case does not obturate properly and if the obstruction does not move, gas leaks outs past the case so acting as a safety valve.

    Would certainly never contemplate full charges of normal powder or large charges of fast powder to attempt to blow out an obstruction.

  14. #34
    Boolit Master gunslinger20's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    East Coast
    Posts
    167
    I use wooden dowels BUT first get a streight walled pistol brass that fits as close to bore size as posible drop it in the bore befor you put the dowel in ( the pistol brass is used as a cup over the end of the dowel) use another on the driven end this helps the dowel from splitting, if it does it is very easy to remove. Take it slow and dont drive it like there is no tomarrow.

  15. #35
    Boolit Master

    Three-Fifty-Seven's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Cochise County, AZ
    Posts
    2,538
    Brass or steel is not that expensive, last for ever . . . pick up a stick! or two!
    Shawn


    John 3: 16 For God so loved the world, that he gave his only begotten Son, that whosoever believeth in him should not perish, but have everlasting life.

  16. #36
    Boolit Master caseyboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    BC, Canada
    Posts
    224
    I had a wooden dowel splinter mid barrel and wedge the two broken ends tight against the barrel wall. Imagine one piece trying to pass the other. It took a 1/4" steel rod and a lot of pounding to finally get that wedged dowel out. Surprisingly, the bore was none the worse for wear. I was expecting the worse. I will never use a wood dowel for bore slugging again.

  17. #37
    Boolit Master
    bumpo628's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    1,223
    Quote Originally Posted by caseyboy View Post
    I had a wooden dowel splinter mid barrel and wedge the two broken ends tight against the barrel wall. Imagine one piece trying to pass the other. It took a 1/4" steel rod and a lot of pounding to finally get that wedged dowel out. Surprisingly, the bore was none the worse for wear. I was expecting the worse. I will never use a wood dowel for bore slugging again.
    The same thing happened to me the first time I tried. I saw a youtube video and thought "that looks easy". I finally had to sacrifice a brass cleaning rod to get the thing out of there.
    Ronald Reagan once said that the most terrifying words in the English language are: "I'm from the government and I'm here to help".
    Download my alloy calculator here: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=105952

  18. #38
    Boolit Master nanuk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    3,058
    brass rod is near impossible to get up here.

    steel is the only way to go. I will wrap in tape.

  19. #39
    Boolit Master
    bumpo628's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    1,223
    Quote Originally Posted by nanuk View Post
    brass rod is near impossible to get up here.

    steel is the only way to go. I will wrap in tape.
    You could tape a small caliber shell onto the end. That'll make it a brass-tipped steel rod.
    Ronald Reagan once said that the most terrifying words in the English language are: "I'm from the government and I'm here to help".
    Download my alloy calculator here: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=105952

  20. #40
    Boolit Master insanelupus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    My Eldorado
    Posts
    226
    Those that have broken a dowel rod, were you using one single piece? I'd always been told to cut the dowel into 6" sections. Bass' idea of epoxying the ends would be a good one as insurance. When a dowel end in the past looks questionable, I just toss it for another chunk. Haven't had any problems yet. I also try to match the anticipated groove size to a similar pure lead ball or slug and Kroil the bore thoroughly before slugging. I also tend to apply a coat of Kroil on the slug and use a small brass or nylon hammer to get it started.

Page 2 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check