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Thread: Removing Stuck Wooden Dowel and Soft Lead Sinker from a barrel

  1. #81
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Southwest MO.
    Posts
    1,815
    I've took a sharp knife and cut off enough the cylinder will turn.
    Some people live and learn but I mostly just live

  2. #82
    Boolit Master daniel lawecki's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    toledo ohio
    Posts
    724
    I'm thinking a hacksaw blade fine tooth a little tape on the cylinder.

  3. #83
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    10,932
    If its a lead nose you may be able to cut it down working carefully. Before doing this block the revolver in a vise or solid spot and with a wood dowel try simple hand pressure to push it back in. It may be loose enough this works. Use a dowel long enough to allow a good grip above the barrel. Sometimes bullet tension isnt as much as it should be

  4. #84
    Boolit Master daniel lawecki's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    toledo ohio
    Posts
    724
    Well I have a few ways to do this as I will pick the safest way. I thank all of you for your advice sometime this week I'll have ago at this.

  5. #85
    Boolit Buddy


    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    225
    I have 2 Mosin Nagant 91/30's, and they both shoot surplus ammo real well. I decided to slug the barrels after I watched a you tube video of it. I bought a box of .32 (.315) caliber round lead balls. I took a four foot 1/4" dowel rod and measured how much I needed to reach from above the crown to just past the chamber. Then I cut the dowel rod into 5 or 6 inch pieces. I lubed the .32 cal. lead ball well and let it set up overnight. Next day I lubed the bores liberally, placed the lead ball in the crown and tapped it with a rubber mallet. Then I used one piece at a time of the dowel rod and tapped them through with the mallet till the ball fell out the chamber and all of the dowel rods dropped out. Worked on both guns and the ball worked through easily. I never had to hit the dowels with anything more than a tap.
    The trick is lube the lead ball, let it set up overnight and lube the barrel well before slugging.

  6. #86

  7. #87
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Kansas US of A
    Posts
    1,354
    The trick is not to put a stick in out bores, period. If I had listened to what the little voice in my head told me.
    Yes lube is a good idea, and I did it. Stick still broke.

  8. #88
    Boolit Mold


    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    SW Montana
    Posts
    11
    No more wood in my bores, either, having created one disaster with dowell sections a few years back. Go to your hardware store and buy a length of cold rolled steel of the appropriate diameter. Put a few wraps of electrical tape every 8 to 12 inches to keep the rod off the rifling. File or grind a slight bevel on the end going into the barrel. I made a short rod for getting the slug started down the bore, a medium, and a longer one to finish up. Your barrel is way harder than the steel rod.
    Regards,
    papertrl

  9. #89
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Posts
    185
    Bears reposting, I want to know this guy!
    He can't fix 'Stupid' but he's fixing what stupid does in a big way!

    The .50 BMG is the most impressive, that's a monster case with a death grip on the chamber!

    I need to think about building a jig frame that takes the place of his lathe bed, something like a hydraulic press frame, the soft nozzle at the muzzle is simply genius!

    --------

    It's a gunsmith thing...
    Unscrew the barrel and cut yourself a cap with the same threads as the barrel has.
    Insert a grease zerk in that cap.
    Screw on the barrel and use a great gun to hydraulic the plug, squib, etc from the barrel.

    On anything with threaded muzzle, this cap is MUCH easier.
    I've had to clear squibs out of AR barrels many times, this requires removing pins and rotating the gas block, or using a sleeve to block the gas port in the barrel

    Threaded muzzle allows for removal of stuck cases.
    You simply screw your cap on and pump grease, the case will back out WITH LUBRICATION long before you can beat it out of the chamber deforming the **** out of it.

    *IF* there is enough barrel in front of the front sight, a ferrule compression fitting can be applied to the muzzle end and grease pumped in,
    BUT,
    It's hard on finish, brass compression ferrule will eat into finish,
    And ferrules can be over pressured and slip off the barrel ends.
    I consider this a last ditch way to do things.

    I have some dead time in the shop, I'm on my way to figure out that nozzle and frame...

    Just some ideas that have worked for me, if you can use them by all means you are welcome to them.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check