I could use 221fireball brass since I have a 221 fireball.Cutting 223 brass is too much work for me.SSK started with necked up 221 fireball brass.Originally Posted by thehouseproduct
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I could use 221fireball brass since I have a 221 fireball.Cutting 223 brass is too much work for me.SSK started with necked up 221 fireball brass.
Would like one also, but with smaller lube groves. 250 with wide lube grooves is going to be looong. Some may like and try to get bullets to tumble. When shooting with a suppressor I don't even want a bullet to come close to doing that. Cold temp., just a smiddigen of not enough powder, soso primer, etc... They cost way too much for that.. Would a tumble style be accurate enough at upper and lower velocity? GC of course...
TL boolits have always done great for me at subsonic velocities.
I'm definitely interested in a mold for subsonic .300 BLK.
Paul
Okay, I read the arguments against bevel bases (I can tumble lube or use Lyman lubrisizer, so either is ok by me)
with or without bevel base or gas check, I am still in for one.
82nd airborne
I think there may be enough interest.
Do you want me to move forward with a group buy?
Swede Nelson
The expectation of evil is more bitter than the suffering -OR-
More people die from worrying about getting ate by a bear then get ate by a bear.
I have been shooting the lee 180 GC and 200 GC through an 8" 1/8 twist AR-15 upper for a while now with good success using an AAC 762SD suppressor.
Based upon my findings, I suggest the GC base. My accuracy trying to shoot without gas checks has been poor compared to with them.
Also, gas checks reduce the vaporized lead that would end up in a suppressor, which is likely to be used with this cartridge.
I would be in for this group buy if the projo weight ended up between 230 and 250gr.
Also, highly consider putting a reduced diameter section in the front of the bullet to clear the front ribs in an AR-15 magazine. The diameter of the 5.56 case at this section is 0.247" and this section is 1.560" from the base of the case.
In my mind an ideal design for a cast 300 whisper projectile would be a semi point with a 0.247" diameter section at the front, stepping up to a bore riding section of ~0.300", and then stepping up to .3095" at the base with a GC.
This would allow feeding and functioning identical to the base cartridge (5.56x45) in any magazine designed for it.
Even though JD jones, AAC and others CLAIM that you can use normal GI mags for 300 Whisper/Blackout, you cannot, unless you limit your cartridge OAL to something that does not hit the front ribs in the mag. With cast projos this is a problem because you want them loaded to the lands, or close, or you will get leading at the throat with the tight twists used in the whisper barrels.
I have a ballistics type thought/question, which is at about 900-1000 feet per second, what is the theoretical minimum rate of twist needed to stabilize a projectile like this? I have a replacement .30 U.S. Carbine barrel that is a possible candidate for a project rifle, and it has a 1 turn in 20-inches turns rate, if I recall correctly.
Again, thanks!
rl893
~+:/&\:+~+:/&\:+~+:/&\:+~+:/&\:+~+:/&\:+~+:/&\:+~+:/&\:+~+:/&\:+~+:/&\:+
There is no such thing as too many tools, especially when it comes to casting and reloading.
Howard Hughes said: "He who has the tools rules".
Safe casting and shooting!
Linstrum, member F.O.B.C. (Fraternal Order of Boolit Casters), Shooters.com alumnus, and original alloutdoors.com survivor.
The Whisper needs a 1 in 8 twist with 220 bullets.
I have 3 Whispers. One that I built on a rem 700 that is wonderfully quiet and accurate.
I have a Model 1 Sales AR upper that is a 1/8 and does fine.
I have a TC Custom Shop Whisper with a 1 in 10 twist that see the 220's come ou sideways at 25 yards.
A 220 tumbles like crazy on a deer. The last deer I shot was a 10 point that dropped right there. The exit wound was a perfect image of a sideways bullet. When that deer was gutted, it was a mess inside.
Just doing some quick measurements with an AR mag in reference to the projectile I previously described, it looks like the .310" diameter section of the bullet should be ~0.400" long, the 0.300" section should be ~0.220" long, and the .250" diameter section should be ~0.680" long, with either a spire or RN type nose profile. Total bullet length would be about 1.3"
I hope that makes sense. That would be the largest volume projectile you could fit in an AR-15 mag and have it feed perfectly no matter what kind of mag you used.
My rough volume estimates show it to be between 220 and 250 grains depending on the nose profile used.
I'm in for PB and/or GC but not a bevel base.
For fine firearms and shooting requisites visit my Web Site by clicking the link below:
Pukka Bundhooks
Id love one, but there is no way I could honcho the buy right now, running a gun buisness and having two kids under 4 years old! If we can get someone to run it, Id definatly like to get rolling with it. Any suggestions, or anything I need to do to help make it happen? If so, let me know, Ill do what I can.
What would a bullet with hjusteins demensions look like? I might join this buy as I just ordered a 300 blk but would like to see a new drawing as I think hjustein has a good point. It would sure be nice to have a bullet designed for this purpose.
This country has gone to hell but now there is hope for us.
hicard
Would need a little more info before
I could get a drawing from what he has posted.
hjusteins
Maybe we could get you to look at post #29
and we could go from there.
82nd airborne
We can get the Group Buy covered OK, as soon
as the design is settled.
Swede Nelson
The expectation of evil is more bitter than the suffering -OR-
More people die from worrying about getting ate by a bear then get ate by a bear.
hjusteins
Trying to figure out your request.
Also, highly consider putting a reduced diameter section in the front of the bullet to clear the front ribs
in an AR-15 magazine. The diameter of the 5.56 case at this section
is 0.247" and this section is 1.560" from the base of the case.
1.560 is well into the bore riding section of a whisper. So you cant make it .247 and have a BR.
In my mind an ideal design for a cast 300 whisper projectile would be a semi point with
a 0.247" diameter section at the front, stepping up to a bore riding section of ~0.300",
and then stepping up to .3095" at the base with a GC.
Thats not much different than what we have a drawing of. Please clarify for me.
Swede Nelson
Last edited by SwedeNelson; 01-04-2011 at 01:35 PM.
The expectation of evil is more bitter than the suffering -OR-
More people die from worrying about getting ate by a bear then get ate by a bear.
Swede, Your ideal whisper boolit sounds alot like mine.
82nd airborne, hicard, hjustein
Take a look again at post #29.
It is so close to what every one has said thay want
I have shot a 300-221 FB for the last year or so
and think it is one of the best cast bullet cartridges around.
Great luck with 311299, clover leaf 3 shot groups at 50 yards.
The nose on the drawing is almost a perfect 311299 nose
with a flat point.
Works through a mag. OK
Swede Nelson
Last edited by SwedeNelson; 01-04-2011 at 01:36 PM.
The expectation of evil is more bitter than the suffering -OR-
More people die from worrying about getting ate by a bear then get ate by a bear.
Lets do it!
I want post #29 boolit with a plain base. What did that design theoretically weigh in at?
Been following this from a link 82nd airborne posted on Silencertalk. Looks like I'll be taking up casting boolits in the very near future.
I was mid-way through an AR Whisper build when AAC/Remington came out with the 300 BLK. I just got my reamer to convert my M1S barrel to 300 BLK specs and really REALLY like this boolit concept for it. So, as a noob to casting boolits with THIS boolit in mind what do I need to start with? 82nd airborne has said that cast boolits in an AR is no big deal as long as you use the right lube.
My set up is an 10 inch AR with an integral suppressor. What combination of "stuff" do I need to make these boolits work?
Bottom pore smelter, any brand recomendations?
Mold from this group buy.
RCBS lubrisizer with, or without heater?
What kind of lube for this application?
I'll need to slug my barrel and get a sizer that is .001 larger correct?
Thank you folks for this web site and count me in for a mold. (I just don't know if I want BP or GS because of my noobness)
Posting Permissions
| BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
| BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
| BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
| C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
| HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
| PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
| LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
| GC | Gas Check |
